stereo cuts out at high volume(NOT high pwr)

[6Scorpion7]

Hello All, I have a 2000 Sea ray 230 BR. I just installed a Dual stereo with a built in class D amp that is maxed at 600watts. I also installed 4 wet sounds 6.5“ speakers. While hooking the speakers up, one at a time, to get the location right(the original wiring wasn't marked, the stereo would jam, up until I hooked the last speaker up. It seems its drawing too much power, and it will cut out, momentarily at 3/4 volume or above, until you turn it down. This happens regardless if the alternator is charging, or not. I'm leaning towards the existing power and ground wire that powered the original stereo. I'm almost 100 percent sure this needs to be a heavy gauge possibly fused cable, for an amplifier. I was just looking for any other things that it could be. I was worried I would need a bigger alternator, but I read where people have way more powerful systems, on factory alternators. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Here are the items I installed.
Dual-AM505BT RMS 55x4 max 150x4 4-8ohm rated
Wet-Sounds-XS-650 RMS 6-60 not sure about max.

EDIT: You can turn the volume up, a little louder, with rpms at cruising speed.

 

[bahamabreisus]

Amp is most likely overheating at high volume. Might try heavier gauge positive and negative wiring direct to batteries. Make sure you fuse the the positive

 

[In Two Deep]

This sounds like a possible impedance problem. There is either too much or not enough resistance in the system. I do not think it is related to the power source to the amp its self. Here is an article that may explain your problem.

http://www.prestonelectronics.com/audio/Impedance.htm

 

[Pyrojodge]

Yeah, I would want to know how you wired the speakers and what your OHM load is. the small amp in the head unit is probably clipping because it's being driven harder than it's designed to do.

 

[Wylie_Tunes]

If each speaker is wired to its own head unit, then its wired 4 chnl stereo. Just to be clear, the music is cutting out, not the head unit powering down/back up, correct? I would check the voltage supply for the head unit. Next, I would check the EQ setting. These can cause an amp to clip, or cut out. Lastly, I would disconnect the splice for that suspect speaker and measure its impedance.

 

[6Scorpion7]

These speakers are 4ohm and the stereo is spec'd for 4ohm as well. It is a 4 channel output and I ran one speaker to each output. With the speakers being 6 to 60 watts rms, I wouldn't think they are too much for the internal amp. Wylie_Tunes, correct, it is just the audio. As soon as you turn the volume down, a few clicks, it stops cutting out. The voltage supply to the unit is at least 12volts, constantly, but I suspect my power wire isn't allowing enough current. I'm not near the boat, right now, but I'm pretty sure it's no bigger than 18gauge wiring. I wasn't even thinking about the amplifier, when I used the factory wire. The back of the stereo has room for at least a 1ought power and ground wire in the screw terminals. When I get home this weekend, I was going to try a larger power and ground, just to make sure it's getting the current it should. I will measure the resistance to each speaker, as well to make sure they're not too high.

 

[Wylie_Tunes]

They have a 4 ohm nominal impedance, which means nothing once the juice starts to flow. The XS-650 is known to actually measure out as low as 3.8 ohm and dip pretty low when in use. If the amp is not stable below 4 ohm, then that could pose a problem is one or more of the speakers are ohm'ing out on the low side.

Forget the advertised rms and peak wattage of the speaker, it irrelevant here. All the head unit/amp know is load in terms of impedance, does not know speaker size, quality or advertised spec. In theory, it could drive a 1000W rms speaker as long as it was a 4 ohm speaker.

I would really suggest measuring the voltage across the B+ and B- as the problems is happening. 12V at rest is actually 75% depleted. This could easily sag deeper as volume goes up. Dont assume voltage is good. You would want to battery voltage and good battery voltage.

Yes, cable gauge does matter, but if the head unit draw was too much, I would certainly hope the head unit supply fuse would have already popped in order to protect the small wire, if thats the issue.

All head units have amps inside, so nothing new here. But with any component swap, you do want to make sure the power cables and circuit protection are adequate.

 

[6Scorpion7]

They have a 4 ohm nominal impedance, which means nothing once the juice starts to flow. The XS-650 is known to actually measure out as low as 3.8 ohm and dip pretty low when in use. If the amp is not stable below 4 ohm, then that could pose a problem is one or more of the speakers are ohm'ing out on the low side.

Forget the advertised rms and peak wattage of the speaker, it irrelevant here. All the head unit/amp know is load in terms of impedance, does not know speaker size, quality or advertised spec. In theory, it could drive a 1000W rms speaker as long as it was a 4 ohm speaker.

I would really suggest measuring the voltage across the B+ and B- as the problems is happening. 12V at rest is actually 75% depleted. This could easily sag deeper as volume goes up. Dont assume voltage is good. You would want to battery voltage and good battery voltage.

Yes, cable gauge does matter, but if the head unit draw was too much, I would certainly hope the head unit supply fuse would have already popped in order to protect the small wire, if thats the issue.

All head units have amps inside, so nothing new here. But with any component swap, you do want to make sure the power cables and circuit protection are adequate.

One other thing I forgot to mention, is that when the rpm's are up, you can turn it up, a little bit louder, which is why, originally, I thought it might need a bigger alternator. Both batteries are brand new, also.

 

[Wylie_Tunes]

Nah, you dont need an bigger alternator, just as long as it works.