Steering cable almost siezed

[Dave M.]

The last time out on the boat the steering was very difficult, could turn the wheel only with a great deal of effort. A few weeks prior, in much warmer weather, I did not notice any steering problem. I have been checking to see what the problem is, and it is the steering cable itself. I have removed it from the boat, and it is very hard to move the inner cable back and forth. I think what happened was that the last trip was in cold weather, and the grease in the cable finally just quit being grease. There are no provisions to lube the cable, and Teleflex states it should not be lubed.

I have had a hard time determining whether it was a model SSC124 or SSC134 cable, and thought it looked more like the 134 model I saw in what few good photos on line, But I finally found a number on it, and it says SSC12476. If it said SSC12416, that would be a model 124 cable 16 feet long. I measured the flex part of the cable and added 30 inches, as I understand is the proper way, and I get a lenght of 16' 6". So I am wondering if anyone knows if the 7 in place of the 1 is a coding for a cable that is 6 inches longer? Maybe a special for Sea Ray, and they needed a way to code half a foot into the 2 digits?

So it looks like I need to replace this cable. I think someone else indicated in another thread you should replace the helm unit too. If I do that, then I think it would make sense to go to the newer model, SSC134 cable and SS-141 helm, which I think will still fit in the mounting bracket. I am curious if anyone with a mid-90's boat has already done this, and dealt with these questions. If so, I am interested in what you found out.

Any help or comments appreciated.

Dave

 

[Dave S]

Dave

I am not sure why those cables can't be lubed. I saved the contents of a thread where a guy devised a way to lube cables and just thought I would pass it along to you for whatever it's worth.

Once in a while a request comes up for information on how to lubricate control cables.

You need a foot and a half of 3/8 ID reinforced plastic hose from Lowes, a tire valve, three hose clamps, a tire pump or small 12 volt air compressor with a gage, and MMO.

Shave the tire valve down and clamp it in one end of the hose.

1. Remove the fittings from one end of the cable.

2. Put 3 inches of Marvel Mystery Oil in the hose for every 20 feet of cable length.

3. Double clamp oil filled hose over cable.

4. Apply and maintain 50 PSI of air to the tire chuck. DO NOT EXCEED 50 PSI.

5. It will take 10 to 30 minutes for oil to appear at the other end. then your done. Have rags to catch the oil if your in a sensitive area.

I suggest safety glasses just in case somethings blows apart, but I have never had a problem. My save rate on cables is about 75%. I did all my cables every 2 years as PM but I was not on salt water.

 

[Dave M.]

That might work if I could figure out a way to do it. The problem is that I can't do step 1. The cable has compressed fittings on each end, and as far as I see they can't be removed without destroying the cable. When you remove the cable assembly, there is no exposed cable end like there would be on a throttle cable or choke cable.

What exists at the ends is a sort of double sleeve construction. The cable jacket has a compression fitting the connects it to a solid wall sleeve that extends the jacket another foot or so. At the engine end, the cable sticks out the end of this solid sleeve, and is compression fitted to a second sleeve that extends back over the first sleeve, again about a foot. So when you turn the wheel, the solid outer sleeve moves back and forth along the solid inner sleeve at the engine end.

At the steering end, the same arrangement exists, except that the solid outer sleeve is replaced by the rack of the rack and pinion steering.

There may be inner seals that I don't know about, and if so, they allow the possibility of hydro-locking the cable. In my engine manual, it describes the cable as having a grease fitting, and describes the procedure to grease it while preventing hydro-locking. But the cable I'm dealing with is not made like that.

I have not yet given up, but still thinking on a way to fix it. I hate to pitch out a cable that is only bad because I can't lube it. OTOH, common sense says not to screw around with a cobbled up steering system on your boat that has already failed once.:smt021

 

[Dave S]

Dave

If you can get a hose over the end that has the cable sticking out, then fill the hose with lube, maybe gravity might do the job overnight.

 

[Dave M.]

The problem there is that the outer shaft that moves is a larger diameter than the inner fixed shaft, so sealing is an issue. If I could mate up to the coupler nut, then it would seal. Then I could retain the MMO and pressurize. I need to get of my okole and go take a look.

 

[Dave M.]

Here are some pictures of my steering cable. I am not able to force lube into it well enough to make it good. A new one is on the way.
[/noparse]This first one is the cable model. It is teleflex SSC124 system cable, the last two digits indicate the length, 16 would be 16 feet, 76 I believe to mean 16 feet 6 inches. That is what it measures.

Here is the helm end of the cable assembly.

And the outdrive end.

Cable connected to PS assembly.

Cable contruction

Failed attempt to put in some 2-4-C.

The end of the steering cable, and the other end of the PS assemby

[/noparse]

 

[Dave M.]

Cable arrived, and is now installed. Feels much better! :thumbsup: