Starting my teak work tomorrow

270win

270win

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Jul 12, 2009
1,019
Atlanta, GA
Boat Info
1991 Sea Ray 350 SunDancer
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7.4 V Drives
I'm going to pull the teak out of my 255 AJ tomorrow and start soda blasting it clean. I can't decide if I want the glossy varnished look or just do the more natural looking Sikkens. I hate the work that's required, but in my opinion, nothing looks better than that deep gloss of varnished teak. I'm going to do the work in sections. The company next to mine has sand blasting booths and they swear blasting the teak clean is the best way to do it. They aren't charging me so I guess it's worth a shot. I'll post pics.
 
Let me know how the soda cleaning goes, I usually sand mine after a good soap and water cleaning. I've been using tung oil for it's warmth and then finishing with a high gloss tung oil for the last three applications. I've been working on the ladder treads for a day or so now.
 
Have you seen dry ice blasting? I have seen a video of this and it looks sweet. When they are done there is nothing to clean up other than the removed material. Pretty interesting stuff.
 
How does the varnish stick to tongue oil? Or am I misunderstanding the sealant?
 
I would be careful blasting teak. It is not a uniform density, and you may end up with ridges and valleys.

Yes, once the oil has completely cured, you can over coat with varnish. Keep in mind what is sold as 'tung' oil may in fact be a blend of various oils such as linseed or poppyseed oil. So read the container if you really want tung oil. Personally I find that the major brand teak oils work quite well. I've had good results with Watco Teak oil followed with several coats of Interlux Schooner varnish a week or so after the last oil application.

Henry
 
Henry Boyd said:
I would be careful blasting teak. It is not a uniform density, and you may end up with ridges and valleys.

Yes, once the oil has completely cured, you can over coat with varnish. Keep in mind what is sold as 'tung' oil may in fact be a blend of various oils such as linseed or poppyseed oil. So read the container if you really want tung oil. Personally I find that the major brand teak oils work quite well. I've had good results with Watco Teak oil followed with several coats of Interlux Schooner varnish a week or so after the last oil application.

Henry
Click to expand...
That's a good point that I failed to make in my original post. When we soda blast teak the air pressure on the cabinet is turned way down, I will post the exact psi when we get started. I'll also post some before, during and after pics.
 
Yes, once the oil has completely cured, you can over coat with varnish. Keep in mind what is sold as 'tung' oil may in fact be a blend of various oils such as linseed or poppyseed oil. So read the container if you really want tung oil. Personally I find that the major brand teak oils work quite well. I've had good results with Watco Teak oil followed with several coats of Interlux Schooner varnish a week or so after the last oil application.

This is true, pure tung oil is a bit more expensive but gives teak a very warm glow. For the more modern look add a coat of varnish as stated above. Myself, I don't. If the finish gets scratched I can do a light sanding and re-coat. With varnish, it gets a little more involved. I used to finish gun stocks and grips for my dads gunsmithing business, so I grew to love the warmth of black walnut and other hardwoods.
 
Yeah, I like the varnished look, but I'm not sure I'm willing to spend the time it takes to make that happen...if I were retired then maybe so. As it stands it looks like Sikkens Natural will be the way I go.
 
This ladder was started yesterday, it won't get a last coat till it has time to cure. The other tread is ready but not on yet, this is just hand rubbed tung oil.
104AA49A-29BB-417A-8493-4829A7E40E46-1391-0000033F68E0E94A.jpg
 
Jason, I can't open it....what does it say?
 
I love the way varnished teak looks...maybe some day I'll do what Pyrojudge did to his...I mean WOW!!!

I just want it to look good and not have to oil it every time I go to the lake.

Question, would tung oil or tung oil finish be okay to do without varnish?
 
Mine has been fine, it's been over seven months since I did the rear hand rail and swim plateform, both still look great.
This is the rail after cleaning and hand rubbing, there's no varnish on any of my teak
7F4CBB56-BE00-4F59-8C82-FD918F6EA086-101-0000010640754D75.jpg
 
I have spent a great deal of time with teak as I just finished re-sanding and replacing teak on my 1987 SR Cuddy Cabin. Make sure before you start sanding etc. that you get the old teak oil out of the wood first. I used a teak oil cleaner and scrubbed with a soft wire brush while rinsing with water. After I removed the oil out of the teak I hand sanded all the teak with 180 - 220. I used Cetol product of Sikkens I applied 3 coats of the natural and 3 to 4 coats of the gloss and it turned out beautiful. At first I used teak oil and that was a mistake as after 6 weeks it looked like it was started to fade. So I stripped it all down again and went with the Cetol and that was the best thing I did. Here are some pictures of my work, hope this helps you. The info. I got was in here so just thought I would just pass it on.
 

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Old Blue said:
I have spent a great deal of time with teak as I just finished re-sanding and replacing teak on my 1987 SR Cuddy Cabin. Make sure before you start sanding etc. that you get the old teak oil out of the wood first. I used a teak oil cleaner and scrubbed with a soft wire brush while rinsing with water. After I removed the oil out of the teak I hand sanded all the teak with 180 - 220. I used Cetol product of Sikkens I applied 3 coats of the natural and 3 to 4 coats of the gloss and it turned out beautiful. At first I used teak oil and that was a mistake as after 6 weeks it looked like it was started to fade. So I stripped it all down again and went with the Cetol and that was the best thing I did. Here are some pictures of my work, hope this helps you. The info. I got was in here so just thought I would just pass it on.
Click to expand...
this looks great! So is there varnish on this too?
 
Sold! I'll grab some and post some pics.
 
Good choice if you need some tips let me know if I can help it might be a slow process but its worth the time for the finished product.
 
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