Stainless steel gimble ring ?

I am in the process of fixing mine now. I was going to rebuild my ring on build up the swivel pin to fit the ring? How ever this looks intertesting. I will watch this item and see what it goes for. Thanks Nicky
 
Stay away from that one.:wow:

Mix that huge piece of stainless with all the other aluminum on your outdrive and you risk a lot more corrosion of the aluminum parts thru electrolysis. That's the main reason Bravo3's have such a corrosion problem because of all that stainless in the dual props.
 
I was wondering about that, hopeing someone with more knowledge than i have on this topic would chime in, Nicky
 
It certainly looks well made, unfortunately from a corrosion standpoint this is a terrible idea. If the boat was trailered and used infrequently (like a race boat, for example) it might be ok with the additional strength of the stainless being helpful.

This could be coated to insulate the SS and keep the electrolysis down, but why risk it?

For a recreational boat, that is kept in the water, this is a really really bad idea at any price.

Henry
 
I like the sellers claim, "If you run into a bridge, we'll replace it!" That's comforting!
 
Dave S said:
Stay away from that one.:wow:

Mix that huge piece of stainless with all the other aluminum on your outdrive and you risk a lot more corrosion of the aluminum parts thru electrolysis. That's the main reason Bravo3's have such a corrosion problem because of all that stainless in the dual props.
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Great point! Did they address that in their description on their pages? What nobody seems to mention is that you can get it anodized and eliminate any corrosion.

dg
 
I wouldn't even consider it on a B-III, but the owner who asked the original question has a B-II and they have never been known to be any more corrosion prone than any other outdrive. Besides, it appears that he boats in freshwater.

So, just how bad can this be?

I guess somebody needs to draw me a picture on the annodizing of a stainless steel gimble ring ?
 
I don't think it makes any difference if it's a BII or a BIII. The reason the BIII corrodes more than a BII is the fact it has two props rather than one. Increasing the amount of stainless anywhere on an aluminum drive is just not a good idea in my mind if you are going to wet slip a boat. I have stayed away from adding a stainless steel drive shower to my BIII just for that reason and I really would like the extra cooling that a drive shower provides. At our lake where corrosion is a serious problem for any type of outdrive for wet slipped boats, our dealer even advises changing to an aluminum prop from a stainless one for that very reason. Unfortunately, no one makes aluminum BIII props so I am stuck with corrosion issues.

Dave
 
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The issue is not about the type of drive so much as the placement of stainless in proximity to aluminum below the waterline. The BIII has SS props that on their own can cause enough damage to the alu in the drive housing. The alpha and BII drives come with, or can be fitted with, alu props that mitigate the issue.

Installing a stainless gimbal ring (or dragging a stainless swim ladder for that matter), on or near any drive with an aluminum housing makes no sense from a corrosion prevention perspective. The bare stainless steel will create a galvanic cell. It's just chemistry.
 
Dave S said:
I don't think it makes any difference if it's a BII or a BIII. The reason the BIII corrodes more than a BII is the fact it has two props rather than one. Increasing the amount of stainless anywhere on an aluminum drive is just not a good idea in my mind if you are going to wet slip a boat. I have stayed away from adding a stainless steel drive shower to my BIII just for that reason and I really would like the extra cooling that a drive shower provides. At our lake where corrosion is a serious problem for any type of outdrive for wet slipped boats, our dealer even advises changing to an aluminum prop from a stainless one for that very reason. Unfortunately, no one makes aluminum BIII props so I am stuck with corrosion issues.

Dave
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Dave
Doesn't your new boat have the Newer Bravo III outdrive?
I was under the belief that the newer Bravo III did not create as much heat as the older unit, (which you may have had on your other boat) meaning you may not need the Shower.

I've also never have heard of Anodizing SS, Aluminum yes and powder-coating Stainless yes, but I've never heard of Anodizing SS.
Is it a jewlery thing?
 
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I put a stainless prop on my BII last spring...it's a lot of stainless 18 3/4 X 19p. I trailer in freshwater ( but have thought about slipping it for a season ). The weak link concerning the gimble ring is the sleeve that holds the swivel shaft. This area is "rounded out" and is the reason for the pending replacement. At the end of the day I don't suppose the stainless ring would really gain me anything...but it looks cool.
 
Guess I don't know my metals very well but I thought my prop's were alluminum on my BIII I thought the SS was the very shiny props.
 
I don't need a primer on galvanic corrosion.....I understand the process.

The guy is in freshwater and he trailers his boat....just how bad can his exposure to dissimilar metal corrosion be?
 
Morpheus said:
Guess I don't know my metals very well but I thought my prop's were alluminum on my BIII I thought the SS was the very shiny props.
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No all BIII props are Stainless. Some are polished some are matte or Mill finish
 
fwebster said:
I wouldn't even consider it on a B-III, but the owner who asked the original question has a B-II and they have never been known to be any more corrosion prone than any other outdrive. Besides, it appears that he boats in freshwater.

So, just how bad can this be?

I guess somebody needs to draw me a picture on the annodizing of a stainless steel gimble ring ?
Click to expand...


I meant the aluminum original ring. You can anodize the ring and stop any corrosion. I don't know if you can anodize stainless.

dg
 
I don't think the problem with the gimble rings is corrosion as much as it is a failure to service the outdrive and lubricate the pivot points properly.
 
I will be sure to keep the bolts that "pinch" the swivel shaft torqued to spec...something the P.O. evidently did not do. Hopefully this will keep it from rounding out and leaking, and getting sloppy.
 
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