kaz911
Active Member
Just venting...
Anyway - you might have seen my other short outbursts about the SR quality in 2008/2009. But here comes the next two..
I used the stove to test my genny power supply - after fiddling a bit with it - all lights in the stove went out. Checked breaker panel - no issues. Power comes out fine. Then I though - well maybe there is a another GFI switch like the "secret" one in the toilet of my 310. No - traced all the cabling through toilet - to galley top selves and downwards.
But as I took the cover of from the back of the top shelves where the vent hose goes - I noticed - vent hose adaptor was only secured in the wood with 1 screw.... One more screw was in the plastic adaptor but had never had any contact with the wood - so the kitchen exhaust vent did not really suck any air - as the round fitting had twisted slightly around - so it was trying to suck out the wooden panel.
I adjusted the vent adaptor - and put in the screw - this time into the wood.
At this point I then realised there was not other way to get to the stove to check the power - than to remove the fridge and access from below. So I did. Took the lid of the "safety mount" for AC - and measured in the assembly - and there was still power available in there. Looked at the stove - thought - what the heck - I'll remove it and see if there are any fuses inside of the stove. So after spending 1 hour getting the stove out - and measuring in the stove - there was no power in there at all on the "Live" - but Neutral and ground had connection.
So I thought - cables between stove and "safety mount" (which was hanging loose - with about 3' of surplus cable) - and with what looked like a well made assembly joint -well insulated etc. So I thought - well this can't really be it but... - this might be it - so I removed the insulation - and BAM - the Live wire fell straight out - it was only held in place by the insulation.
This is now the FOURTH CRIMP joint on my boat where SR have "forgotten" to Crimp one side of the power line. That it lost contact while I was "playing" with it was just a coincidence that lead me down a very wrong diagnostics path. But as all the other failed crimp's the wires had absolutely no trace of any sort of compression you get from crimping.
Okay enough ranting - but these "little" issues are expensive to fix in time - and if you are not inclined to DIY - in Electricians costs. But on the plus side I know my boat even better - my kitchen vent is actually now slightly effective and my stove is back in working condition - and fridge is getting a noise reduction treatment while I'm in there anyway.
And I hope you learned just a tiny bit today by reading this. I still love my 310 but I could kick the QC guys at SR who was there in 2008.... They do need to hire some Germans to do their wire-work....
Anyway - you might have seen my other short outbursts about the SR quality in 2008/2009. But here comes the next two..
I used the stove to test my genny power supply - after fiddling a bit with it - all lights in the stove went out. Checked breaker panel - no issues. Power comes out fine. Then I though - well maybe there is a another GFI switch like the "secret" one in the toilet of my 310. No - traced all the cabling through toilet - to galley top selves and downwards.
But as I took the cover of from the back of the top shelves where the vent hose goes - I noticed - vent hose adaptor was only secured in the wood with 1 screw.... One more screw was in the plastic adaptor but had never had any contact with the wood - so the kitchen exhaust vent did not really suck any air - as the round fitting had twisted slightly around - so it was trying to suck out the wooden panel.
I adjusted the vent adaptor - and put in the screw - this time into the wood.At this point I then realised there was not other way to get to the stove to check the power - than to remove the fridge and access from below. So I did. Took the lid of the "safety mount" for AC - and measured in the assembly - and there was still power available in there. Looked at the stove - thought - what the heck - I'll remove it and see if there are any fuses inside of the stove. So after spending 1 hour getting the stove out - and measuring in the stove - there was no power in there at all on the "Live" - but Neutral and ground had connection.
So I thought - cables between stove and "safety mount" (which was hanging loose - with about 3' of surplus cable) - and with what looked like a well made assembly joint -well insulated etc. So I thought - well this can't really be it but... - this might be it - so I removed the insulation - and BAM - the Live wire fell straight out - it was only held in place by the insulation.
This is now the FOURTH CRIMP joint on my boat where SR have "forgotten" to Crimp one side of the power line. That it lost contact while I was "playing" with it was just a coincidence that lead me down a very wrong diagnostics path. But as all the other failed crimp's the wires had absolutely no trace of any sort of compression you get from crimping.
Okay enough ranting - but these "little" issues are expensive to fix in time - and if you are not inclined to DIY - in Electricians costs. But on the plus side I know my boat even better - my kitchen vent is actually now slightly effective and my stove is back in working condition - and fridge is getting a noise reduction treatment while I'm in there anyway.
And I hope you learned just a tiny bit today by reading this. I still love my 310 but I could kick the QC guys at SR who was there in 2008.... They do need to hire some Germans to do their wire-work....
