Spring Checklist

[Craigalan]

Hi Folks,

My 270DA was properly winterized, then stored indoors in a heated facility over this winter. I am interested in hearing about anyones spring checklist that they go over to get a vessel ready for the water. Im not new to boating, but am new to boat ownership. Anything in particular I need to address before getting this beast out on the lake? Thank you, CSR!

 

[Gofirstclass]

There are several areas that come to mind and I'm sure others will add to my list.

Canvas and eisenglass--make sure it's all clean. The eisenglass should be thoroughly dusted before washing so you don't scrub any dust against the glass when you wash it. Use a good product to clean and polish the eisenglass, then take home the panels you don't want to keep on the boat for protection from sudden storms. The panels you take home should be hung to keep them straight, and they shouldn't touch other panels. The ones you keep on the boat should be laid flat with blankets or towels between them so they don't touch.

The Sunbrella panels should be hosed down, then scrubbed with a soft scrub brush and light soap solution. I just use a very light mix of boat soap but I'm sure there are others who use specialized products for this. Hose them down well after scrubbing to remove all traces of the soapy water. Spray them with 303 Protectant to keep the water resistance.

Hull and deck. These areas, along with the cockpit, swim platform, etc., should be scrubbed down well then give a good coat of wax. I use boat soap to scrub mine.

Engine Room/Bilge. Make sure it's clean, all thru hulls are open, and there aren't any leaks from the engine(s) or trannies. I use Simple Green sprayed on the engines, let it soak for a few minutes then hose the engine down. This water will go into the bilge and your pumps should kick it out. Let the hose run in the bilge for a few minutes to make sure it's clean in all areas below and behind the engines.

Fresh Water System. I'm really anal about my water systems. Before I fill the fresh water tank I put in a cup or two of bleach, then add about 20 gallons of water. I'll turn the pump on and open one faucet at a time to make sure the bleach/water gets into all the pipes and faucets. Then I let it sit for a day and pump it all out. That is followed by a complete rinse of the system with another 20 gallons of clean and run through the pipes until there's no more bleach smell. EVERY bit of water that goes into my fresh water system is filtered through a large (15" long x 6" diameter) that I hook to the hose and run the outlet end into the water tank. I even do that when I'm doing the bleach treatment. After treating my tanks and water lines in this manner I don't have to put up with smelly, odd tasting water.

Check your bottom paint to see if any areas need touch up or a complete new bottom paint. Check the props for dings. Make sure the fluid levels are correct in engines, trannies, etc. Change the oil and filters if needed. Is it time to change the impellers? Check your "spares list" to see if you need to add any spare belts, hoses, impellers, etc.

That should get you started. Now others can add to this list.

 

[Craigalan]

Exactly what I am looking for. Thanks!! Keep the lists coming. Also, if I changed oil and gear lube during winterization, I dont need to do it again before launch, correct?

 

[Gofirstclass]

Correct.

 

[MonacoMike]

Exactly what I am looking for. Thanks!! Keep the lists coming. Also, if I changed oil and gear lube during winterization, I dont need to do it again before launch, correct?

Correct. The reason is even lightly used oil has contaminates that may corrode your engine bearing surfaces if left sitting over the winter.

MM

 

[Jaybeaux]

I know that this is a bit of an older thread, but I thought that I would share something that happened to me yesterday while working through the Spring Commissioning.

I had just finished changing the on engine fuel filters on both Mains and the Generator. I was waiting on a buddy to help me fill the on engine fuel filters by cycling the Start/Stop switches (first notch only) to acitvate the on engine fuel pump. I had the fuel filter outlet vent plug "open" and we repeat the process until fuel flows out. By the way I have Cummins QSC-540s. So, while waiting for my help to arrive, I decided to go ahead and start the Generator.
I triple checked the sea cock, and then went to the Salon to start the generator from there. It's just my habit. I turned the generator "ON" and then held the top of the Start/Preheat switch. The lights started flashing per usual. About 2 seconds in, the lights stopped and I had an orange flashing light on the bottom of that switch. It was flashing a sequence of 3 blinks. A quick Google search indicates that is a "Service Fault". I then learn that if you hit the bottom of that switch one time, it will then give you the two-digit code; mine was a 6-1. Another Google search says code 61 which indicates the genset start mode will not engage until a re-set takes place. What the heck? Well, OK, how and where do I reset it?

I cycled all breakers associated with the Generator: The two switches on the front panel. The one on the left side in the back, the main 240 volt breaker coming into the boat, and the Generator/Shore Power selector switch on the main distribution panel. Nothing worked!

By this time, my helper arrived so we began the process of cycling the switches to fill the fuel filters. However, when the SmartCraft came on-line, all information was BLANK. Including Engine Hours!!! Now I think I'm in deep kimchi and this is going to be a serious fix.

As luck would have it, one of the Marina Technicians was walking down the dock so I snagged him for a drive-by consult. I explained everything that I had done and observed. He walked up to the helm, looked around for 3 seconds and said "Your Fire Boy System as gone off". What? Yep, the gauge at the helm had a "red light" indicating that the system had either deployed or was not protecting you. Well, I can tell you that the system had NOT deployed as I had been in the bilge all day.

Then it dawned on me.....it's as cold as a witch's t**t in the bilge. Perhaps the pressure in the cyclinder had fallen below a minimum (PV=nRT or P1V1/T1=P2V2/T2) and that is what is preventing my engines from starting.

We immediately bypassed the system with the switch, and ALL WENT BACK TO NORMAL. The generator and both mains started as they should...with just the little extra starting time before they caught. Everything is OK.

Today, I took the Fire Boy switch out of Bypass and back into Normal operation. I turned on the key switches and I have a Green light. All systems normal. It has been warm here the past few days and the bilge has warmed tremendously thus raising thge pressure in the cylinder.

Conclusion: Always check for a green light on your fire monitor system prior to starting. It will aleviate a ton of aggrivation and worriment.

Jaybeaux