nigel
New Member
Does anyone know if the altenator charges both batteries at the same time, regardless of the position of the "1 - Both - 2" selector switch? - i.e. do Sea Rays (1998 270s to be precise) include a split charge diode system?
Split Charging from Engine
- Thread starter nigel
- Start date
- Nov 26, 2006
- 7,628
- Boat Info
- 2008 44 Sedan Bridge
- Engines
- Cummins QSC-500's
Straight Drives
Interesting question. I always assumed that my '97 250 batteries did not charge unless they were selected on the switch. Maybe they did. Maybe yours do. I can't wait to learn the answer.
MLauman
Active Member
As wired from the factory, the alternator will only charge the battery that is selected by the switch (which would include the BOTH setting). However, the battery charger should charge both batteries regardless of switch setting.
MLauman is correct about the factory configuration. However, if you are not the original owner of the boat, it is possible that the previous owner made a change to include the split diode isolation. I am sure there are several on the board here that are like that. If you have a diode isolator, charging for both batteries regardless of Perko Switch settings, then you should be able to find the isolator in line between the alternator output and the battery input. If your alternator output goes directly to the Perko switch, then you don't have the diode isolator.
I altered the original charging setup on my SeaRay -
Original setup - the Alternator charged only the selected battery (i.e. - 1/2/both/off)
New setup - I added a third battery - ran a wire to a new buss bar in the console and connected all of my electronics to the new buss bar - I was tired of and annoyed by my electronics being shut off and resetting every time I started the engine.
I put in a 'split charger' in line between the battery switch and the alternator - attaching the Alt. wire and the switch wire to the center terminal. One side of the splitter is attached to the #2 battery and the other side is attached to the #3 battery. This isolates the #3 battery which will charge while the engine running but will be unaffected by any other power drain or connections on the other batterys. The #2 battery runs all of the 'house' systems and lights while #1 battery is for the engine and guages, etc. All three batterys charge while the engine is running.
I also added a solar panel that connects to the center connection on the splitter to 'trickle' all three batterys when the boat is in storage. I can still parallel #1 & #2 to get a 'boost' for startiing if needed.
The only continous drain is on battery #3 which powers the AM/FM radio clock and internal button memory. The aft bilge pump is also wired to this battery through a float switch so the bilge pump is always 'hot' and will come on automatically if any water accumulates in the bilge. It has only come on once when I had a minor leak develope at the onboard cooler drain pipe which had a small crack at the thru-the-hull fitting.
Works for me.
Original setup - the Alternator charged only the selected battery (i.e. - 1/2/both/off)
New setup - I added a third battery - ran a wire to a new buss bar in the console and connected all of my electronics to the new buss bar - I was tired of and annoyed by my electronics being shut off and resetting every time I started the engine.
I put in a 'split charger' in line between the battery switch and the alternator - attaching the Alt. wire and the switch wire to the center terminal. One side of the splitter is attached to the #2 battery and the other side is attached to the #3 battery. This isolates the #3 battery which will charge while the engine running but will be unaffected by any other power drain or connections on the other batterys. The #2 battery runs all of the 'house' systems and lights while #1 battery is for the engine and guages, etc. All three batterys charge while the engine is running.
I also added a solar panel that connects to the center connection on the splitter to 'trickle' all three batterys when the boat is in storage. I can still parallel #1 & #2 to get a 'boost' for startiing if needed.
The only continous drain is on battery #3 which powers the AM/FM radio clock and internal button memory. The aft bilge pump is also wired to this battery through a float switch so the bilge pump is always 'hot' and will come on automatically if any water accumulates in the bilge. It has only come on once when I had a minor leak develope at the onboard cooler drain pipe which had a small crack at the thru-the-hull fitting.
Works for me.
JYurgo
New Member
According to the owners manual of my 2001 225 Weekender, I am suppose to use one battery for the radio and what not while anchored. When I begin to cruise I'm suppose to switch it to both so it can charge both batteries while cruising.
