Spider cracks on bow
- Thread starter ylwjacket
- Start date
jhild
New Member
- Nov 2, 2006
- 350
- Boat Info
- 1999 BW 18 Ventura /
Sold: 2003 176BR
- Engines
- Current: 135 OptiMax /
Sold: 3.0L Alpha
Hi, YJ. I don't really know the answer to your question, but I felt bad that no one had responded. :grin: Well, since I'm here anyway, I might as well take a shot:
From reading other posts in the past, I think most people go to a professional glass guy. Matching the color might be the most difficult part of the process. I believe the repairs are purely cosmetic, but once the cracks are fixed, you'll never know they were there.
From reading other posts in the past, I think most people go to a professional glass guy. Matching the color might be the most difficult part of the process. I believe the repairs are purely cosmetic, but once the cracks are fixed, you'll never know they were there.
sbw1
Well-Known Member
- Oct 10, 2006
- 8,185
- Boat Info
- This is listed in my signature
- Engines
- This is listed in my signature
ylwjacket said:
These are very easy to fix. You use a Dremel style tool and route out the gel coat along each crack making a "V" channel. Then you build up the the routed out area with a matching gel coat. When fully cured, you use fine wet/dry sand paper to level it out. This is followed by a fine finishing compound to restore the shine. After that you wax the repair.
You may want to consider what causedthe cracks to begin with. Since it is by a stanchion, was someone sitting on the rail? Did you hit a dock? Other stress cracks can be caused by excessive speed that take the hull airborn followed by a large pound. We see boaters do this all the time, not realizing what they may be doing to their boats.
AndersonAcres
Member
I've heard that some stress cracks are from pilot holes being too small for the screws or bolts that go in them.
The solution I heard for this is to take out the screws/bolts, increase the diameter of the hole, then bed the fixture and the screws/bolts in epoxy or 5200.
The solution I heard for this is to take out the screws/bolts, increase the diameter of the hole, then bed the fixture and the screws/bolts in epoxy or 5200.
Why not PM RobF300...............he can probably let you know the best way to repair them since he is our resident fiberglass expert.
- Oct 3, 2006
- 1,985
- Boat Info
- 2004 - 220 Sundeck
- Engines
- 5.0L w/Bravo 3 Drive
Dave, is he even still around? :smt017
STIHLBOLTS said:
Yes........here is his profile. http://www.byowneryachts.com/forums/phpBB2/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1832
- Oct 3, 2006
- 1,985
- Boat Info
- 2004 - 220 Sundeck
- Engines
- 5.0L w/Bravo 3 Drive
Well lets dust him of and put him to work. :lol:
sbw1
Well-Known Member
- Oct 10, 2006
- 8,185
- Boat Info
- This is listed in my signature
- Engines
- This is listed in my signature
I'd go slowly on using 5200 to bed a stanchion. Should you need to repair it, removal will result in significant gel coat damage around the repair area. All you need to use is a good bedding compound for the through bolts and base.
RobF300
Member
- Nov 22, 2006
- 368
- Boat Info
- old and useless
- Engines
- 5.7/alpha
413 Chrysler straight inboard
if you do not determine what caused the cracks then dremling them out and filling them with gelcoat might end up being a waste of time.
unbolt or unscrew the fastners, if they are bolts then its not from drilling the hole too small, its either from them being too tight or from people or lines pushing on the railing.
If they are screwed its doubtfull that its from not drilling the hole large enough, this was assembly line work and they probably only had access to one sized drill bit- the proper one for the job.
it could also be from water getting into the area and causing the cracks.
It could be from there being too much gelcoat in that area, that is a good place for gel to pool when they lay up the boat.
without seeing it there is no way to determine how they got there.
If you pay someone to do it for you there might be a swing in prices- one guy might just dremel them out and fill them with gelcoat while another may want to get into a bit more and use a more involved process- so compare apples with apples when shopping for your glass work.
You can give the dealer a shot at a possible warranty repair even though these would fall under cosmetic and no longer be covered
if you did not get alot of warranty in the past or owned a few Sea Rays or other boats from the dealer they may assist in some of the cost.
unbolt or unscrew the fastners, if they are bolts then its not from drilling the hole too small, its either from them being too tight or from people or lines pushing on the railing.
If they are screwed its doubtfull that its from not drilling the hole large enough, this was assembly line work and they probably only had access to one sized drill bit- the proper one for the job.
it could also be from water getting into the area and causing the cracks.
It could be from there being too much gelcoat in that area, that is a good place for gel to pool when they lay up the boat.
without seeing it there is no way to determine how they got there.
If you pay someone to do it for you there might be a swing in prices- one guy might just dremel them out and fill them with gelcoat while another may want to get into a bit more and use a more involved process- so compare apples with apples when shopping for your glass work.
You can give the dealer a shot at a possible warranty repair even though these would fall under cosmetic and no longer be covered
if you did not get alot of warranty in the past or owned a few Sea Rays or other boats from the dealer they may assist in some of the cost.
Sundancer
Well-Known Member
- Jul 20, 2005
- 2,909
- Boat Info
- 34 year old CLASSIC 300 DA, towed almost anywhere behind the Duramax Dually Crew Cab.
- Engines
- 16 cyl, 700 cu. in./Alpha I's
Spider cracks? Just get the spiders to pull up their pants! Crack kills! :smt043
