Snrinkwrap questions regarding canvas poles

Madifonzo

New Member
Sep 30, 2013
716
Boston, Ma
Boat Info
2005 280
Zodiac Zoom 310 9.9 Honda
Engines
Twin 5.0 MPI with Bravo III Drives
I do shrinkwrap my own boat. I ushally build a wooden cra,e that runs the full length of the boat. This requires me to remove all the canvas poles. This is a cumbersome process and storing them is a pain. I came across some photos of boats wrapped with the canvas poles still up. Wondering if anyone has personal experience with this. With drum tight canvas I think movement would be minimal even in stiff wind and snow loads should not be an issue since the wrap does a great job at shedding snow.

i would be interested in inputs from other.
 
If you can get the frame high enough it should work. I would be worried about the chafing on the sides though where the shrink comes down.
 
Typically, when using the poles, the area from the windshield to the first pole is relatively flat. That area is pretty large and will collect a lot of snow that is not easily reachable. If you're comfortable on a big ladder, on top of snow and ice, with a long broom and the boat is in your yard, sure. But it's a huge pain to be brushing off the snow all time. I also wouldn't shrink over the canvas - you'd be decreasing the breathability of the shrinkwrap (use vents, of course), which isn't all that great to start with. On top of all this, I very much doubt that the poles would support the weight of snow - or at least I wouldn't count on it. And, another reason for not keeping the canvas covers up is that they would then be sharing in the support of the snow load - although people do this (use their canvas covers by themselves over the winter), it seems like a problem waiting to happen.

Do you have an arch, or just two bimini's?
 
when i bought my boat it only came with the rear pole and it was a little too long. so i bought 1" PVC and made an H pattern that sits on the floor with a T in the center pointing up. then the 1" upright couples down to 1/2". my cover has the vents in it and the 1/2" fits perfectly in the vent pockets. i did not glue the upright post so i can disassemble it and store it easily on my boat. in fact, i'm not even sure where i put them...lol. but the bottom line is that i think they are stronger than the metal poles and cheaper to repair/replace. the front one is much shorter as it sits on the front seat.
 
I have the arch. I was planning to remove the canvas from the poles prior to wrapping. The arch should give enough slop to shed snow. I could use a 2x in the act portion of the cockpit to crate a higher point. As I mentioned its storing the poles that is the hassle so I was try to figure out a way to leave the on.
 
Oh, I see now. I leave my poles up, I fold them to the arch.
 
The arch is PLENTY strong enough - in fact, we often (and I do it with my own boats) even leave the biminis up to act as a support - but we do put a 2x under them. Once it's all wrapped up, it's even stronger. Here's the way I would do it:

-- If you don't already have it, get nylon strapping.
-- You may not even need the 2x's in the aft cockpit as the strapping can run down from the arch to your aft cleats and down the center, as well.
-- Going forward, though, you'll still need some 2x support down the center of the foredeck (decreasing height as you move forward). You can use the strapping to connect them together to make the "spine" (instead of more wood), and also to go outboard to the rails. This will be ALOT easier to store - just make notes of where you attach the strapping (which particular stanchion each strap goes to, for example).
 

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