Smartcraft Manual

jeffk

New Member
Apr 28, 2009
273
Sarasota, Florida
Boat Info
2006 300 Sundancer
Engines
5.0L Mercruiser w/Bravo III
Can anybody tell me how to read an alarm? I was on my way back from a boating weekend and check engine went off. Everything seems normal. All the gauges seem fine, checked motor, all fine. Went below to get the Smartcraft Operation Manual and says check the Operator, Maintence Manual. The gauge does not tell what is in alarm? After CHECK ENGINE, there is a little AL in the upper right corner, and it just flashes. How can I tell which system is in fault?

2006 300 Sundancer twin 5.0 BIII
 
The short answer is you probably can't check it out on your own. Usually when you get a Check Engine warning and nothing else it takes a service person with a scanner to look at the ECM to see what fault code is stored.
 
It should give you an alarm code or "Fault Number" on the gauge which will be a one to three digit code. If you PM me with the code or post it, I, or someone else can tell you the definition. That will give you a starting point for troubleshooting. Otherwise, as the last poster suggested, a scan may be needed.
 
Thanks, but no numbers either. I can also run full power, it doesn't restrict me to 2500 RPM. Pulled two plugs, one on each side in the middle, all dry. Maybe water in the fuel?
 
It is likely a bad sensor or something like that if engine performance is not affected. Unfortunately without a code that is what makes troubleshooting the problem on your own difficult.
 
Thanks, but no numbers either. I can also run full power, it doesn't restrict me to 2500 RPM. Pulled two plugs, one on each side in the middle, all dry. Maybe water in the fuel?

Are you sure there is no code displayed on any of the screens? Do you have the SC1000 gauges or do you have the System View Display? I don't know about the System View but the codes, when displayed on the SC1000 gauge set are VERY small and easy to miss, at least when I have had an alarm they were.
 
Sorry, don't know the version. 2 tachs, one on each side of the speedo, monitoring each engine.

If it does turn out to be water in the fuel, how do I go about removing it? Can I install an inline Fuel/water separator? I just picked on up, but need to get bigger barb fittings for the 1/2" fuel line.
 
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Sorry, don't know the version. 2 tachs, one on each side of the speedo, monitoring each engine.

If it does turn out to be water in the fuel, how do I go about removing it? Can I install an inline Fuel/water separator? I just picked on up, but need to get bigger barb fittings for the 1/2" fuel line.

It sounds like you have the SC1000 setup. I would toggle through the displays to double check for that code.

I would be willing to bet with an 06, you have Cool Fuel 3 filters. Yes, you can change them but I think you have the wrong idea because the fuel line is not involved with the changeout. I will find the Cool Fuel 3 instructions and PM to you. If you do not have Cool Fuel 3, I would be shocked.
 
Yes, I have cool fuel. I want to add another fuel filter/Water separator between the tank and cool fuel filter. Is this OK, given I get one with large enough ports. I just got one with 3/8 npt ports, but got too small barbs for the 1/2" fuel line. Will get 1/2" x 3/8 NPT barbs tomorrow and install it.
 
I have the same gauges. You can scroll through the alarms and read in english, not numeric codes, what the alarm is. There is the word "scroll" on the right button (from memory). It allows you to read each alarm.

Water in fuel is one possible alarm. Very easy to remove the fuel cartridge on cool fuel and dump gas/water out, and put it back in. Takes 5 minutes.

Also, go a google search and you will find the instruction manual as a PDF to read how to read the alarms.
 
Nope, couldn't find the codes. I tried all combination of buttons to get the code come up. All I could get was the "Check Engine" and the the little AL up in the right corner. I guess I need to get someone to scan it.

I can get the motor started, but when I back it down to idle, it slowly idles, then stalls. As long as I keep it at 800-1000 rpm, it will idle. It idles smooth too, not jumpy.

Could it be the IAC sensor I read about?
 

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If the IAC sensor goes bad that will give you a check engine light. Since the engine does not want to idle I would look at that as the possible cause. Try changing the IAC muffler first and if the motor still stalls out then change the IAC sensor next.
 
Thanks Dave, any info on part numbers and the locations of these parts? 2006 5.0l

I remember see a post a while back, but can not find it now.
 
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Ordered the IAC parts, went to the boat to see where they were and the filter/muffler was missing. That explains why that motor was noisier than the other. I removed the IAC, cleaned it, put it back on (till I get the new one) started right up, and idled fine, still have an nalarm tho, went down and tapped it with a screwdriver handle, and stopped the motor. So I will now wait for the new valve.

Do I need to reset the alarm after I replace the valve?
 
Ordered the IAC parts, went to the boat to see where they were and the filter/muffler was missing. That explains why that motor was noisier than the other. I removed the IAC, cleaned it, put it back on (till I get the new one) started right up, and idled fine, still have an nalarm tho, went down and tapped it with a screwdriver handle, and stopped the motor. So I will now wait for the new valve.

Do I need to reset the alarm after I replace the valve?

I believe the alarm will stop if that was the problem. The fact that the muffler is missing is a little concerning to me. I have been told a muffler can be sucked in to the passage that leads to the IAC thereby heavily restricting the air flow and runining the IAC. I don't have any first hand experience with that sceaniro so I can't explain exactly where to look. Was the muffler on the other motor?

I have also been told some mechanics will remove the muffler all together so i guess that is a possibility too.
 

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