Slipping transmission

[badtothebones]

Hello all, yesterday coming back to marina noticed that when engaging transmission it revs up, but take some time to respond and move.....going back to marina today to check.
Will it be low transmission oil level?? Have to check level with hot engine?

Not mechanically oriented here

Thanks in advance


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dmorris800]

Your trany sits in the outdrive but you indicate the boat is a 2015, it should be under warranty (3 years for that model year I believe).


regards,
dave

 

[badtothebones]

Your trany sits in the outdrive but you indicate the boat is a 2015, it should be under warranty (3 years for that model year I believe).


regards,
dave

Yes, called MM and they will come check it out. Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[PlayDate]

Hopefully, it is just a spun hub in the propeller. The center of the prop contains an infused band of rubber that secures the prop to a hub. The hub is what slides and bolts onto the outdrive shaft. When it fails, the engine revs and the prop spins slowly. When the shaft is broken or if there is transmission problem......the prop is completely unresponsive.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Yes, you really don't have a "transmission" in the typical sense. You pretty much have an almost direct connection with the engine. You don't have "transmission" oil, but you do have gear oil. You can check that at the reservoir bottle on the engine. There is also a sensor that would let you know if it's low. It would be extremely rare for the gear oil in the leg to be low, yet still have a full reservoir bottle.

With a B3, there are no rubber hubs in the propeller. However, there is a "coupler" between the engine and the drive that contains rubber and that can exhibit the same symptoms as a spun hub.

Another possibility is that there is an issue with the shift cable. Sometimes this can be damage from shifting when the engine is off (just an fyi).

 

[PlayDate]

Your right about BIII props. That said I would much rather have to replace a prop then a coupling which is an expensive repair.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Your right about BIII props. That said I would much rather have to replace a prop then a coupling which is an expensive repair.

Me, too. Although, the parts for the coupler repair are less expensive than those B3 props. The "only" problem with the coupler repair is that there is a huge hunk of iron in the way that has to be removed, first! :smt001

 

[Thornton69]

The Bravo 3 uses a cone clutch in the top of the upper that could be a possible point for slippage. It should snap in while engaging. Hopefully it is something simple that hasn't added contamination to your outdrive.

 

[MExcelsior]

Depending on the symptoms, I would have them first check the shifting cable. After that, with a bravo 3, I would look at a possible glazed cone clutch. Does it just hesitate and then slips into gear after some time? Does your motor respond and work normally once into gear? If so, this sounds like a cone clutch problem. Although giving a bit of throttle will sometimes force into gear, this is hazardous for the expensive upper gear set, and you shouldn't force it. With a bravo 3 you should never hear the 'clunck' into gear like an alpha drive. If you shift and your motor automatically revs without you giving any throttle, then you probably have something else going on. It could also be the shifting fork, but the clutch and fork live in the same cottage if you are planning to visit them. Good luck and let us know.

 

[tdgard]

Mine did this two seasons ago. When I would nudge it into forward it would "spool up" is the best way to describe it. After about 20 seconds it would fully be in gear. I could force it to go by adding gas and then get a "clunk". Due to age and hours I was mentally prepared for it to be a clutch. Replaced the shift cable and all has been well since.

 

[badtothebones]

Thank you all for the replies, the technician is coming Thursday to marina to check it out. Will let you all know what they say.

is a learning curve. :smt021

 

[Lazy Daze]

One other thing - and I know this probably doesn't affect you since it sounds like you're having all your work done at the dealership, but just a general FYI... Bravo drives MUST use the Merc Hi-Perf gear lube (blueish-greenish stuff). If regular gear lube is used, it can cause shifting problems. Good luck - hope it's something simple!

 

[dmorris800]

Dennis, With the new DTS (he is 2015 model), is the gear shifter still mechanical or is it controlled by the computer?
Dave

Yes, you really don't have a "transmission" in the typical sense. You pretty much have an almost direct connection with the engine. You don't have "transmission" oil, but you do have gear oil. You can check that at the reservoir bottle on the engine. There is also a sensor that would let you know if it's low. It would be extremely rare for the gear oil in the leg to be low, yet still have a full reservoir bottle.

With a B3, there are no rubber hubs in the propeller. However, there is a "coupler" between the engine and the drive that contains rubber and that can exhibit the same symptoms as a spun hub.

Another possibility is that there is an issue with the shift cable. Sometimes this can be damage from shifting when the engine is off (just an fyi).

 

[Lazy Daze]

Dennis, With the new DTS (he is 2015 model), is the gear shifter still mechanical or is it controlled by the computer?
Dave

Dave, he might not have DTS (I'd have to double check, but it may not have even been an option on that boat). But, to answer your question, it's a little bit of both. From the controls to the engine is all drive-by-wire. Then, back at the engine, there is a shift control module that operates the shift cable to the drive. So... a little bit electronic, a little bit mechanical.

 

[badtothebones]

Tech changed gear lube (level was ok), also tried adjusting shift gear without success.

Told me is the clutch and will tow to dealer to take outdrive off, etc

Interestingly only slip when forward, is ok in reverse. Tech told me "clutch has 2 components".

Sucks this happens on wk I took off to chill and go boating.

Welcome to boating life I guess :smt021

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

 

[dmorris800]

Thanks for the edumication:grin:

Dave

Dave, he might not have DTS (I'd have to double check, but it may not have even been an option on that boat). But, to answer your question, it's a little bit of both. From the controls to the engine is all drive-by-wire. Then, back at the engine, there is a shift control module that operates the shift cable to the drive. So... a little bit electronic, a little bit mechanical.

 

[tdgard]

Mine did the exact same thing-forward only. Tech had to work hard to convince me it was only the cable. Sounds like you'll get a bunch of that stuff below the waterline replaced under warranty. Sucks that you will miss your dedicated week of boating but at least it's early in the season.

 

[badtothebones]

Update, so the dealer said this:

We have found that the cone in the upper portion of the drive is slipping. This can be caused by switching gears quickly and that will burn the clutch.

Does that make sense?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[scoflaw]

Cone clutch is the weak link on that drive.Unless you were beating the snot out of it like forward/reverse .high rpm's,back and forth...doubtful. Now if your a noob, maybe 1st boat, and any of that did happen. Well it's probable.

 

[Thornton69]

I have dual controls. If the f & r control is slightly out of neutral, it won't engage but you can here it intermittently trying to. It sounds like it is momentarily trying to grab but does not have enough spring pressure to hold. Guess where I am going with this is, if your shift linkage was not set up correctly, it could have been a big contributor to a failed clutch. With the Bravo drives, you are not supposed to shift them if the engine is not running. Doing so puts excessive strain on the shift linkage and can throw the adjustment out.