Should I avoid this boat? - corrosion & skeg

[bradleeduckett]

Hello there - we are looking at a few 2006 240 Sundancers and I could use some advice.

The picture below is of a 2006 with a 350 Mag 300hp ~220 hrs... the interior, systems, etc seem to be in great shape, but I'm concerned about the outdrive. The annodes seem to be significantly deteriorated - I know they are sacraficial and that's the point, but I'm worried about the other stuff that could have corroded. Please also note the corrosion around the base of the prop - is this average?

Also, the Skeg has been damaged - a stike on the front and the back (see next post for additional picture). As the skeg can be repaired, I'm more concerned here about the damage that could have happened to the gimbal or transom.

There is a more local 2006 240 one-owner that has always been on a lift and is in overall excellent shape but it has the 5.0 MPI 260hp at ~400 hrs (mostly at at high idle as the total gallons used over 400hrs is less than 5gph) and costs 5k more (at 42k); it does seem a little underpowered but I think I could live with it. As a side note, we have not driven the 350 mag, so maybe we won't know what we are missing.

I really like the idea of the additional horsepower with the 350 Mag and the rest of the boat is in great shape - BUT, I am concerned about the cost of outdrive repair and anything else that could have resulted from damage/corrosion. Should I just go for the 5.0 MPI and avoid the risks? Any advice here would be most appreciated.

Thank you!

 

[bradleeduckett]

Thanks for the response - we will definately get a survey done if we move forward. Checking that the shaft is true is a good idea.

Also, why is there a speedometer wheel on the transom? I haven't seen this on the other 240s we looked over...

I was going to post another picture, but it keeps telling me I'm oversized even after making smaller.... the original picture is a little deceiving... the corrosion around the base of the prop is really my concern (that it doesn't make it's way inside the case).

 

[kaz911]

Thanks for the response - we will definately get a survey done if we move forward. Checking that the shaft is true is a good idea.

Also, why is there a speedometer wheel on the transom? I haven't seen this on the other 240s we looked over...

I was going to post another picture, but it keeps telling me I'm oversized even after making smaller.... the original picture is a little deceiving... the corrosion around the base of the prop is really my concern (that it doesn't make it's way inside the case).

The speedo wheel .. is a fishfinder transducer - so it is connected to the GPS and gives you sonar + speed and temperature. Quite normal for transom mount FF.

Can you see deep pitting (not on anodes but on aluminium?) Anodes gets very pitted if left in the water. Don't worry about that. That is how they are supposed to work.

I have a 2007 240 loaner at the moment. It is full of stuff :smt001 (they are beach goers) and I filled the water tank (keeps the very high 240 more stable) and with 2-3 persons / full tanks / and lots of "extras" in the cabin + camper canvas top out - I have not problem with the 260MPI. Top about 33 knot - plane takes a bit of time compared to my old 210 Select - but it works well. Cruise is about 3500 RPM and 25 knots. But that is with nice clean anti-fouled boat. Before I cleaned the trimtabs for growth it was sluggish and max RPM was 4200. Now it is 4550.

 

[GrandMaster]

I would not be too worried about that corrosion...looks better than about 80% of the boats I'm used to seeing. Although, all the boats I see are salt water boats.

Check the drive tightness though if you are worried about it hitting something...if you can move the drive from side to side at all with your bare hand something is seriously wrong

 

[Henry Boyd]

Side to side movement is possible with a good biii. The check is to move the drive side to side and watch the top of the gimbal ring. If the ring turns but the pin stays stationary it's time to walk away, the gimbal ring is shot.

As for corrosion, there's surface stuff and then there's out and out cancer. From what I see it looks mostly like surface stuff. This drive is never going to be a shiny jewel. If you are one of those trailer guys who washes and polishes his drive, this boat ain't for you.

Merc phantom black is pretty much at the bottom of the marine coating spectrum. The solution is to grind out the rough spots and coat the drive with trilux. Trilux is specifically designed to protect below waterline aluminum. It's ugly, but it's effective. You can get it in spray can, or in quart cans. I bought a quart a couple of years ago and each spring I scrape any loose crud off and glop on a good coat. We are in salt water full time during the boating season. And with good anodes, working mercathode and trilux we have no problems.

Henry



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[Loneranger]

I need to pick up a quart of trilux. I have been doing the same as you, Henry, but with a spray can of zinc chromate primer and merc phantom black. The phantom black is now used up though.

John


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