packrat1969
New Member
Hi! For those of you familiar with Shoreland'r surge brakes, I am looking for some help.
I have model-year 2003 single-axle Shoreland'r trailer for my 18.5' Sea Ray runabout. This trailer uses a drum-type brake where the braking drum itself is integrated with the hub assembly, and is removed as a one-piece unit. I don't know if this is done for cost-saving or actual engineering reasons, so maybe someone can elighten me otherwise. What I do know is that having to repack the bearings every time one wants to inspect their trailer brakes is a sure-fire way to keep people from doing it as often as they should. Why couldn't have this been designed like the typical truck/car drum brake, having the braking drum separate from the axle hub? Corrosion issues?
Even though it is such a PITA, I have been tearing down each side of the axle every other year. I replace the seals, clean, and lube whatever needs it, then put things back together. I adjust the drum star wheels the requisite number of clicks, as indicated by the manufacturer's backing-plate-mounted sticker. Neither drum or brake assembly has shown any signs of ongoing problems, so no hardware has been replaced. As I only trailer in freshwater, minor surface rust on some of the brake harware is about as bad as it gets, and this I can take care of.
Now, aside from the maintenance headaches, for the past few years, I have had an intermittant problem with both trailer wheels, though the port side more often. Occassionally, when retrieving, I go to move my (empty) trailer I find that one of the wheels will be locked. I guess I've always attributed this to the dunking of a heated trailer hub in cold lake water and then parking it for 6-7 hours. The situation can always be corrected by backing the trailer up a short distance, which releases the brake shoe's hold on the drum. Once the boat is on the trailer all is well, and the surge brakes function as expected on all stops.
Just recently, however, I've had a situation where I was towing the boat/trailer down an fairly steep hill at slow speeds (>10mph) and one of the wheels locked up solid and would not release. I imagine the surge brakes were engaging, much of the time while on the hill. Since I was blocking traffic, I had no option but drag the trailer (leaving skidmark and all) for another 20 feet to a level area. Even then, with the tounge-mounted surge mechanism extended (not engaged), the brake would not let go. I ended up backing up hard and then pulling ahead hard and the drum finally let go. I would not normally do this to a loaded trailer. Oddly enough, I had no problems trailering for the next day and a half, until it happened again, on the exact same stretch of road, with the same wheel.
After repeating the violent release procedure, I was able to tow all the way home with no problems (thankfully). I have yet to get the thing jacked up and taken apart, so I don't yet know the actual cause, but does this sound like a mechanical or hydraulic problem. I would think that, assuming both drums are properly adjusted, if it was a hydraulic problem, then both wheels would have been locked. I also think it would happen more often. Any ideas/comments? Anyone have any exploded views of the typical Shoreland'r surge brake system from this era?
As as side note, I've been wondering what it would take to convert these drum/hub units to some kind of disc unit. I know there are hydraulic conversion kits out there, but what about electric? Do electric brakes last in water? Any reccommendations on brands to use or avoid?
Richard
I have model-year 2003 single-axle Shoreland'r trailer for my 18.5' Sea Ray runabout. This trailer uses a drum-type brake where the braking drum itself is integrated with the hub assembly, and is removed as a one-piece unit. I don't know if this is done for cost-saving or actual engineering reasons, so maybe someone can elighten me otherwise. What I do know is that having to repack the bearings every time one wants to inspect their trailer brakes is a sure-fire way to keep people from doing it as often as they should. Why couldn't have this been designed like the typical truck/car drum brake, having the braking drum separate from the axle hub? Corrosion issues?
Even though it is such a PITA, I have been tearing down each side of the axle every other year. I replace the seals, clean, and lube whatever needs it, then put things back together. I adjust the drum star wheels the requisite number of clicks, as indicated by the manufacturer's backing-plate-mounted sticker. Neither drum or brake assembly has shown any signs of ongoing problems, so no hardware has been replaced. As I only trailer in freshwater, minor surface rust on some of the brake harware is about as bad as it gets, and this I can take care of.
Now, aside from the maintenance headaches, for the past few years, I have had an intermittant problem with both trailer wheels, though the port side more often. Occassionally, when retrieving, I go to move my (empty) trailer I find that one of the wheels will be locked. I guess I've always attributed this to the dunking of a heated trailer hub in cold lake water and then parking it for 6-7 hours. The situation can always be corrected by backing the trailer up a short distance, which releases the brake shoe's hold on the drum. Once the boat is on the trailer all is well, and the surge brakes function as expected on all stops.
Just recently, however, I've had a situation where I was towing the boat/trailer down an fairly steep hill at slow speeds (>10mph) and one of the wheels locked up solid and would not release. I imagine the surge brakes were engaging, much of the time while on the hill. Since I was blocking traffic, I had no option but drag the trailer (leaving skidmark and all) for another 20 feet to a level area. Even then, with the tounge-mounted surge mechanism extended (not engaged), the brake would not let go. I ended up backing up hard and then pulling ahead hard and the drum finally let go. I would not normally do this to a loaded trailer. Oddly enough, I had no problems trailering for the next day and a half, until it happened again, on the exact same stretch of road, with the same wheel.
After repeating the violent release procedure, I was able to tow all the way home with no problems (thankfully). I have yet to get the thing jacked up and taken apart, so I don't yet know the actual cause, but does this sound like a mechanical or hydraulic problem. I would think that, assuming both drums are properly adjusted, if it was a hydraulic problem, then both wheels would have been locked. I also think it would happen more often. Any ideas/comments? Anyone have any exploded views of the typical Shoreland'r surge brake system from this era?
As as side note, I've been wondering what it would take to convert these drum/hub units to some kind of disc unit. I know there are hydraulic conversion kits out there, but what about electric? Do electric brakes last in water? Any reccommendations on brands to use or avoid?
Richard
