Shore power hookup

[KRB64]

Just bought a 1982 260 Sundancer. It is all original and in great shape. Its the first boat we've had with factory shore power. The others have always been added and easy to "view" and trace the connections etc. :grin:

My question is, on a factory set up, what are the dos & don'ts? Or are there any? Can one just plug & play so to speak? I see an indicator light on the breaker box that shows the connection is correct or not. Are there any old manuals floating around for that era boat that will help us out?

Its got the original AC/alcohol stove too that I know nothing about. AC/DC fridge, water heater.

Thanks for any insight.

 

[estebanj]

The normal/recommended procedure is breakers off at the boat panel, off next to shore power connector (if there is a master breaker there), and off at the actual shore power base. Connect cable and then turn base on, master on, and breakers at panel on.

In all honesty, I normally don't worry about the breaker at the base and the master next to the connector. I just make sure the breakers are off at the boat's panel before connecting or disconnecting.

If you have a reverse polarity indicator, do check that before turning breakers on.

Most likely you have a single 30 AMP connector. This should be enough for all your electrical needs. However, keep in mind that if you add something with high amp comsumption it may trip the breaker. For example, elec stove, water heater and A/C running when all of a sudden you hear a hair dryer and the breaker trips. ;o)

Esteban

 

[AWBoater]

Do you know if the boat has a galvanic isolator?

Most factory setups do, but with the smaller sized boats, some manufacturers might skip installing one, since they are optional.

Larger boats tend to have them as standard equipment since they may be more "slippable", while the smaller boats may see as much time on the trailer as in the slip.

 

[KRB64]

The braker panel just handles the AC current right? Not DC so everything still works when the breakers are off?

Whats the isolator look like? The boat is 25 years old.

 

[estebanj]

You should have an AC panel and a DC panel. On the AC panel you may have a breaker for a DC charger which keeps your batteries charged when on AC power.

Some items may bypass the DC panel and connect straight to the batteries, such as bilge pumps.

If you can post a photo that may help.

Esteban

 

[AWBoater]

A galvanic isolator is located on the ground wire between the AC breaker panel and the shorepower inlet. They are often jambed in to a spot behind the panel. Sometimes they are attached to the backside of the panel.

They are usually the size and shape of say the box your checks come in - if you still are old school and write personal checks.

Their primary purpose is the prevention of galvanic current from flowing from the boat to the marina's ground, which will normally cause your zinc anodes to be used up quicker.

For smaller cruisers that do not necessarily stay in a slip a long time, some manufacturers have not installed an isolator in the past. But for larger boats that might be in a slip for the season, they are usually installed.

I cannot say for sure, but I believe this practice was more common in the past than in present boats, but you say your boat is 25 years old - it would not hurt to check.

And since salt-water is a better electrolyte than fresh water, one would make a conclusion that a galvanic isolator would be of more benefit in salt-water.

So whether or not you need one has a lot to do with whether or not you plan on boating in salt-water, and how long you intend to keep the boat in the slip - with shorepower connected.

If you disconnect the shorepower cable when you are not using it, there is no danger of galvanic current. But if the cable is connected, since the galvanic current flows through the cable's ground, it will be present whether or not the breakers are on.

The basic purpose then of a galvanic isolator is that it goes in the ground circuit, and is designed such as to prevent galvanic current from flowing, while at the same time maintaining the integrity of the safety ground.