Shock Absorbing Hitches

U

unlvrebel

New Member
Mar 24, 2008
341
Clearwater, FL
Boat Info
2005 220 Sundeck
2002 Dodge Durango 5.9L
Engines
5.0 Merc
Did a couple of searches but couldn't come up with anyhing on the forum. Does anyone in here use a shock absorbing hitch of any type? Looking for something to make the wife happier on long distance trips. She ends up a little naseous after a trip to the keys with the boat shaking the tow rig for several hundred miles.

I've been looking at the Air Safe Hitches online. Pretty good chunk of dough to lay out without any testamonials from the board here.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
Trying to figure out what symptom you are trying to get rid of. Is it just the movement of the truck/trailer going down the road or is there another issue? I've seen issues where the receiver opening is slightly larger than it needs to be so the hitch has room to move a bit so bumps and other movement in the trailer is exaggerated. How are the shocks on your Durango? They original? I've never used or needed a different type of hitch setup once my trailer and tow vehicle were setup so I'm curious.
 
Yes, I'm wondering the same things. I used to have a '98 Durango and pulled a boat with similar weight to yours... a lot - lots of towing mileage. I don't recall any specific problems with it. Other than not having the power I wanted (318ci), I thought it was actually a good tow vehicle for the weights it was designed for.

Admittedly I don't much about the hitch you're referring to, but I would want to have as solid of a connection between trailer and vehicle as possible. I'm curious as well to exactly what problems you are having.
 
I have for years used Covert-A-Ball Cushioned Ball Mounts and have been very pleased with the results and most all of our trailers are between 8,000lbs to 14,000lbs and it take the jarring out.

www.convertaball.com
 
Have you considered a weight distribution hitch? That takes some of the bounce out and makes the whole vehicle and trailer seem better connected. It's hard to describe, but might get rid of the "bounce" if that's what is making her sick? Are you sure it's not the gas mileage that's making her hurl? :grin:
 
Just wanted to give you my .02. I had originally bought a shock absorbing hitch from W.M.- The actual part I got is the "receiver"- It had an enlongated hole for the hitch pin which had a "cushioning" mechanism in it......
It doesn't work- at least it didn't for me- it clunked badly during each accel and decel as the hitch pin slammed against the enlongated hole- made me feel like the trailer came off the ball-
Just my experience- so you can maybe avoid that route...
 
Thanks for all the replies. First off, everything is mechanically sound on the rig. New shocks, in alignment, etc. This is just typical movement when two large objects are connected to each other at a pivot point. If the rear object shakes because of an elevation change (road and bridge meet), then the first object gets jerked around. Unless of course the towing object is a 1 ton...

I like the Dramamine idea. :) I'll pass it on to the wife. Unfortunately a 1 ton is not in my future. That, and the Durango performs very well with the 5.9L Magnum. It's just a light vehicle in the grand scheme of towing. Going to have to look into the cushioned ball mount a little more. I wasn't aware the the weight-distributing hitch would smooth the ride. Will investigate that further as well.
 
The weight distributing hitch basicly connects the frame of the truck to the frame of the trailer with torsion bars. We use one on our travel trailer. You have to disconnect the bars on uneven surfaces, off road, dirt road, and I would think, on a boat, before backing down a ramp with a steep drop off. Ive never seen anyone use one on a boat though. It does keep the rig from bouncing with our travel trailer hooked up though.
 
I use a weight distributing hitch. There is nothing like it. It solidifies that pivot point from all the "bouncing" you are experiencing. No need to disconnect the bars during ramp activities or otherwise. I've never had an issue maneuvering with them.

I haul back and forth from MA to FL 3 to 4 times a year, out to the Great Lakes once or twice a year, plus all my local stints to Gloucester, Boston and the Cape & Islands. Wife, 3 kids, and a dog all pile in to boot. I have over 40k miles on the trailer in 3 years with this setup (80k on the Suburban). Here are some photos of it.
 

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Chuck, it appears your using the surge brake system. I've always heard it's tough to get the WD system set-up just right so the brakes work properly. Was that your experience? Did it take a lot of trial and error?
 
Lazy Daze said:
Chuck, it appears your using the surge brake system. I've always heard it's tough to get the WD system set-up just right so the brakes work properly. Was that your experience? Did it take a lot of trial and error?
Click to expand...
Not really. We did have to "adjust" it, but the real trick was starting with the right WD system which can be used with surge breaks to begin with, as most cannot.
 
ChuckW said:
Not really. We did have to "adjust" it, but the real trick was starting with the right WD system which can be used with surge breaks to begin with, as most cannot.
Click to expand...

That's good to know. Do you recall the brand or model that you have? I'm actually very happy with the way my Sub tows, but I may consider one of these as it can only increase safety. So, there are no times where you have to disconnect? That's encouraging to hear that.
 
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Lazy Daze said:
That's good to know. Do you recall the brand or model that you have? I'm actually very happy with the way my Sub tows, but I may consider one of these as it can only increase safety. So, there are no times where you have to disconnect? That's encouraging to hear that.
Click to expand...
This is the hitch system I have...note in the specs it states "Works well on trailers with hydraulic (surge) brake actuators"
http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Reese/49579.html

Key Notes:
  • as with any WD system, out of the box, they are for a trailer with an A frame close to the hitch, so you can get the proper splay on the spring bars. You'll notice in my pix above, that we built a custom bracket to splay the spring bars and mounted it on the pole of the trailer.
  • We had to use a low profile, high strength, nut for the ball hitch and cut off the excess thread. This allows the head end of the spring bar to pass under the ball hitch nut in a tight turn.
  • The adjustment trick is in getting the spring bars at the right angle to be able to insert them and then put load on them. It's a trial and error with the pitch of the head unit (note it's adjustment notches) and the height of the tail end of the spring bars at the bracket, which has adjustment as well.
 
Thank you, Chuck - I appreciate the info!
 
velooce said:
I have for years used Covert-A-Ball Cushioned Ball Mounts and have been very pleased with the results and most all of our trailers are between 8,000lbs to 14,000lbs and it take the jarring out.

www.convertaball.com
Click to expand...




Your my hero Velooce! I just saw your boat on page 64 of the April 2010 Boating magazine!!! It looks awesome as usual and stands tall to represent quality vintage Sea Ray!!
 
I've got a Schuck cushion hitch and love it. I got it when my main tow vehicle was my wife's 4Runner. It absorbs the 'clunk' when taking off from a stop caused by the trailer brake actuator being pulled back out. It makes a big difference on the all around ride quality when the boat is hooked up.


http://www.schuckhitches.com/
 
jffacets said:
Your my hero Velooce! I just saw your boat on page 64 of the April 2010 Boating magazine!!! It looks awesome as usual and stands tall to represent quality vintage Sea Ray!!
Click to expand...


Thanks for the nice comments
 
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