Shell Rotella T4 15W-40 — Scarce

Blueone said:
I found some at west marine Jefferson Beach…$139.99.. :eek:. Like I said $60 delivered last year. I was going to price match with Amazon. Amazon was $90 w/free delivery…. But already paid that. I just wanted to change oil this weekend.
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Sorry I missed this post, but NAPA has it as well. I picked up straight SAE 40W for $76/5gal, only a few weeks ago.

Also WM will price match Amazon as well.
 
b_arrington said:
True, just watch the actual vendor. WM will match when the seller is Amazon, but not another seller that is fulfilled by Amazon.
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Yep, sorry I should have mentioned that. Thanks for pointing that out.
 
Went to Walmart got the last 5 gallon buckets Rottella oil. And they don’t know when they expect the next shipment. Went to West Marine to buy antifreeze for the engine system I cannot believe it’s 7.99 a gallon for -50 below antifreeze what the hell.
 
I got the last 2 one gallon jugs of Rotella T6 15W40 at Walmart today. They had one 2.5 gallon jug left. No antifreeze though. Sam's had a bunch of boxes of T6 with 3 one gallon bottles in each box for $66/box or $22/gallon, which is the same price I paid at Walmart.
 
So my great rotella internet find was a dud…..3 weeks no delivery no communication after 3 days emailing. Always write reviews after you had a few beers :)
Talked to my Napa guy near the boat and he just got a shipment of 2-1/2 gallon jugs today. He is holding 4 for me at $50ea.
Looked in TSC - $35/gl :eek:
 
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After looking more closely and seeing it meets the Cummins specs, I elected to buy the Kirkland 10w-40 oil at Costco. A 3 gallon case was $30. They had plenty on hand.
 
b_arrington said:
After looking more closely and seeing it meets the Cummins specs, I elected to buy the Kirkland 10w-40 oil at Costco. A 3 gallon case was $30. They had plenty on hand.
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Ya I know I just hate to change oil brands. It’s been on shell since new. I felt if forced I would leave it until spring … looks like I should be okay with Napa
 
Thanks for the tip that stock is dwindling. my 22 gallons of T4 15w40 Rotella
Blueone said:
I tried to buy two 5 gallon buckets today. I usually go to Tractor Supply and they had none. So went on the internet. No availability at TS. Autozone you can have it delivered to the store near you. No availability. I tried quite a few other places with same result. I went on eBay and bought two delivered to the house for $90 each out of Idaho…. Won’t get them until Oct 5th. Last year delivered was $60 plus tax each.
A few boats on my dock were having their oil changed by a service and I noticed they were using no name brands.
Just a heads up if you are loyal to a certain brand
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Thanks for the tip that stock is dwindling. Called my local supply and asked them to hold 22 gallons of the T4 15w40 Rotella. Whipped out half their stock.

Sometimes I love the local supply…
 
rlynch03 said:
Thanks for the tip that stock is dwindling. my 22 gallons of T4 15w40 Rotella


Thanks for the tip that stock is dwindling. Called my local supply and asked them to hold 22 gallons of the T4 15w40 Rotella. Whipped out half their stock.

Sometimes I love the local supply…
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Looking to start putting together my list for the first winterization of this boat. Has anyone ever put together a material list? Am I correct that the QSC-500's take 20-quarts of oil each, when filters are replaced? Also looking to swap out the coolant and would like to know what's the most popular choice.
 
Captsteve427 said:
Looking to start putting together my list for the first winterization of this boat. Has anyone ever put together a material list? Am I correct that the QSC-500's take 20-quarts of oil each, when filters are replaced? Also looking to swap out the coolant and would like to know what's the most popular choice.
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To replace filters and oil in gen and both engines you need 11 gallons of oil
I used cummins pre mixed coolant I wouldnt use anything else
 
Captsteve427 said:
Looking to start putting together my list for the first winterization of this boat. Has anyone ever put together a material list? Am I correct that the QSC-500's take 20-quarts of oil each, when filters are replaced? Also looking to swap out the coolant and would like to know what's the most popular choice.
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You want to run the QSC closer to the "add" line on the dipstick than full. My routine was to add about 3.5 gallons to the sump as a starting point. Prefill the oil filters, they will take pretty close to 2/3 of a gallon each.

I also only used premixed Cummins Compleat ES. I believe it was 7.5 gallons per side. If you had anything but the blue colored Cummins mix I would flush with water before adding new coolant.
 
Blueone said:
What's your reason behind this ?
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It was suggested by the surveyor as well as my local mechanic and I have seen it mentioned on sbmar.com. Too high a level has a chance of the crank dipping in and whipping the oil. I think the sump is shallower than it should have been.

I think this a QSC issue not a "C" issue.

Its not a bad thing to run at full, its just recommended to run between the points, preferably in the bottom half of the range. Never over "full" or below "add".
 
firecadet613 said:
I use T6 15W40 full synthetic in my twin 5.7 VPs and have for years in other VPs. Runs well and the analysis always comes back perfect.
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I run Mobil 1 full synthetic oil in my 8.2 Bluewater Mercs and my 8.1 VP, it actually burns less than regular oil in the Bluewater Mercs. (For those that do not know, (It is stated in the manual, that the 8.2 BW will use oil, and they do depending on how hard you run them.)
 
swaterhouse said:
It was suggested by the surveyor as well as my local mechanic and I have seen it mentioned on sbmar.com. Too high a level has a chance of the crank dipping in and whipping the oil. I think the sump is shallower than it should have been.

I think this a QSC issue not a "C" issue.

Its not a bad thing to run at full, its just recommended to run between the points, preferably in the bottom half of the range. Never over "full" or below "add".
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I think everyone overly thinks all the BS, we have tractors, ran commercial trks, own a 44DB. we change the oil and if the dip stick has been checked we put it on the full mark. by me saying dip stick checked, on some of the commercial trks we owned there was different oil pans and you needed to calibrate and etch the dip stick to get it right.
 
I tend to follow Tony at sbmar.com's advise on the oil levels. I've always run my 6CTA at half way up the hash mark on the dipstick and due to a brain fart moment i added it to the end of the hash mark. The result I believe was foaming in the crank case which resulted in a zero oil pressure reading. I think its definitely based on motor but I now strictly run mine on the lower end of the hash markings.
 
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