Shakedown Cruise 2021

Alhuriyah

New Member
May 25, 2021
17
North Alabama
Boat Info
1992 270 Sundancer
Engines
7.4 Merc
Took the new to me Sea Ray 270 out for a weekend cruise and am learning the difference between power boating and sailing. Power boating is more roomy and comfortable for the same length boat but definitely not for the faint of wallet.

Be that as it is I found the following problems:

- Appears to be some kind of exhaust leak. Lots of exhaust in the cabin and around the boat and the carbon monoxide detector was going off whenever we slowed down to 1-3 knots. Golly that thing is loud but for good reason. Is this otherwise normal or should I suspect a leak?

- The lower unit only goes one way on the throttle switch. I talked to the guy I bought it from and he said to use the trailer lift to go back. That worked but should it not go both ways on the throttle switch?

- Last day out hit an unseen underwater obstruction and sheered off about a 1"X5" section of prop on one blade. This caused an immediate drop in velocity and serious vibrations. The prop I believe was original and not in great shape anyway but I don't think I should drive it all with it in the current shape. We limped it back but I am so used to have sails as primary propulsion and motor as backup was curious what people use as back up propulsion on boats this size? Other than towing insurance that is.

- The Cabin AC appears to not be working. Is it just very weak or will it cool down the cabin on an 85 degree day? It blows but the air does not feel cool like a normal AC.

- Almost everything else on the boat appeared in good working order with the following exceptions noted:
- MPH Gauge (not needed)
- Trim Gauge (not sure if needed)
- Compass worked 50% of the time, not really needed.
- Spotlight is broken, not very useful, but I will replace anyway
- More worrying, Mast light (all around light) not working. I put a bright LED lantern up top while we were anchored watching fireworks but will get it replaced.
 
Sounds like a normal first excursion to me:D. Depending on wind direction and speed you may just be getting normal exhaust fumes in the cabin. You need to run with hatches open to allow for good airflow thru the cabin conditions permitting. If it is really bad you may have a leak which should be obvious with a quick inspection of the exhaust system with the engine running.
Do not run with a blade missing! Carry a spare and learn how to replace it with the out drive raised.
Your drive trim should work both ways for trim and you should only need to use the trailer switch to raise it beyond trim setting.
Your AC might just need to be serviced. When it comes on you will hear the fan motor first and then hear the compressor kick on. Perhaps you are only having the fan come on.
It will take time to shake every thing out. Good luck and welcome to CSR
 
Carpediem - Thanks for your advice. The whole blade isn't missing, just a sizable chunk. I will start carrying a spare and spare hardware as well as a wrench. I figured the hatches should be closed during operations but got it wrong. I will run them open next time and do an exhaust inspect.

Ducky - No survey was done on the boat but I didn't pay terribly high price either. I expected there to be issues and nothing really expensive has come up yet. It came with a trailer but I currently keep it in a slip. Our lake gets lowered off season so I will probably pull it out in the fall and bring it to the house to store and work on.
 
Ok CO leaks are dangerous and can kill you so be careful. Normally the cabin should be sealed from the engine compartment to prevent this. You will need to find out how it is getting in.

I would keep the cabin door closed when under way to prevent CO from being pulled to the cabin. Also check the exhaust for any loose connections.

As for the prop, you will most likely need to replace but if you take it to a good prop shop they will tell you if it can be repaired. Do not run out of balance as it could harm your outdrive.

Outside of rowing back get seatow or boatus for towing - whatever/whoever is more available on your body of water.

Is the A/C moving water? check the water outlet thru hull to visually verify. Many times A/C will loose their prime. If not check the pump to make sure it is actually working and pumping water and the pickup strainer to make sure it is not clogged. Also check the filter screen and coil - if air flow is restricted it will not cool - same goes if the coil it frozen.

The all-around masthead light may be simple or may not. Might just be a bulb or it could be wiring/switch related. I would start at the bulb. If not blown check for voltage and work backwards tracing to the switch/relay.

-Kevin
 
Geez, I felt anxiety just reading your post. Sorry to hear about all of this, but, welcome to boating. Nothing to add really to what the others said. DO NOT disconnect your CO monitor like a lot of, cough cough, idiots will do so they do not have to hear it go off.

I always boated with the hatches open to get fresh air moving thru the cabin. If you had the camper canvas up you could have been getting what's called (I think) the station wagon effect. Carb may need adjustments as well. But get this one resolved before you go back out.
 
Man reading this felt like a page out of my first trip out. Nothing but issues. Still have yet to get a full season out of mine without something going bad. Too bad there's no lemon laws for boats lol
 
When I took my new to me 2000 Monterey 302 out for her first cruise, put her up on plane, all, and I mean all, alarms went off at the same time. At the same time the canvas in front of the radar arch came off and hit me in the face. Not a great start.
 
I have towing insurance on the boat. But I imagine on Memorial Day Weekend it would be a "get to it when freed up" type event.

So far as the AC goes I can hear the condensation gurgling at the exhaust port but nothing comes out. A clogged something or other makes sense to me on a boat this age. I think I will tear in to it this weekend and check the whole thing out.

I would certainly never disconnect the CO detector. Sounds like a good way to have a really bad day. About 20 years ago one of the guys that worked with me put his whole family in the hospital by driving around with a faulty exhaust system.

If the camper canvas is the rear canvas than the boat came without it installed.

The masthead light appears to be wiring. The wires are badly frayed at the pivot point. I left my tool box on the sailboat or I would have fixed it on the spot. Don't think I will do that again.
 
In a related question I am curious if the hydraulics for the trim tabs and the lower unit are in the same system or isolated from each other?
 
I know the feeling @Alhuriyah ..... I swear my boat got covid over the winter
.... everything seemed to be wrong with it when it splashed.... fortunately a couple thousand cured it. We are both mask free now :)
 
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- The lower unit only goes one way on the throttle switch. I talked to the guy I bought it from and he said to use the trailer lift to go back. That worked but should it not go both ways on the throttle switch?

Yes, the trim switch in the shifter should allow you to move the outdrive up and down. The trim switch in the shifter is most likely a somewhat easy replaceable item. I have replaced a few on my center consoles. Be careful with the use of the trailer switch as it will allow you to raise the drive higher than the trim would.

Sounds like the old owner just did not want to repair anything. Hopefully you got a really good deal on this boat as it appears you may be in for a ton of postponed maintenance and repairs.

-Kevin
 
Ducky - No survey was done on the boat but I didn't pay terribly high price either. I expected there to be issues and nothing really expensive has come up yet. It came with a trailer but I currently keep it in a slip. Our lake gets lowered off season so I will probably pull it out in the fall and bring it to the house to store and work on.

Good to hear.

On the CO issue I'd check your exhaust bellows to make sure it's connected.

For the AC issue make sure you prime your system with water up to the pump.
 
Good to hear.

On the CO issue I'd check your exhaust bellows to make sure it's connected.

For the AC issue make sure you prime your system with water up to the pump.
And try to remember to close the AC seacock before the boat comes out of the water so you will not have to prime it when it goes back in the water.
 
Your Trim gauge and up trim on your throttle are related. If look at the outdrive there is a puck looking device on the left side. There is a wire that runs through the transom to that puck. After a while, the wires get pinched, cut or whatever and that prevents the puck from signaling to the gauge where it is on the gauge. I believe it's also why the up trim quits working because my boat is the same way and has been for a number of years. The wire just hangs. I will get to it when I replace the bellows next year.

Follow the advice above. These guys know what they are talking about!! I'm always learning something!
 

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