Shaft seals

Glad to help.
Got any pix of that '72 tolly?
 
I have video of it on a CD. I will down load a still first chance I have and will post a pic if I can figure out how to do it. It was a great boat and never touched an engine or transmission in the 5 years I owned her. I have to say she was one of the best boats I owned. She is still running as the guy that bougt her is in the marina next to me.
rondds said:
Glad to help.
Got any pix of that '72 tolly?
Click to expand...
 
 
That's the boat, not mine of course but close, mine was a 28ft Sport fisherman. When I sold the boat it was in exceptional shape. That picture sure brings back a lot of good memories. I will get a photo of the DVD and post it. The nose on those boats look stubby but I have to say she ran smooth as anything in rough seas.
rondds said:
Is this it??
http://www.boats.com/listing/boat_d...r=1734613&entityid=17346131&rs=yachtworld.com


BTW, I got my GFO packing today. Took about 4 days to arrive.
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[THanks re the packing info. Going up to the boat this weekend and will call the mechanic as he should have on his service the packing size.quote=tollycraft;184900]That's the boat, not mine of course but close, mine was a 28ft Sport fisherman. When I sold the boat it was in exceptional shape. That picture sure brings back a lot of good memories. I will get a photo of the DVD and post it. The nose on those boats look stubby but I have to say she ran smooth as anything in rough seas.[/quote]
 
Sorry, think I screwed up that last post.
tollycraft said:
[THanks re the packing info. Going up to the boat this weekend and will call the mechanic as he should have on his service the packing size.quote=tollycraft;184900]That's the boat, not mine of course but close, mine was a 28ft Sport fisherman. When I sold the boat it was in exceptional shape. That picture sure brings back a lot of good memories. I will get a photo of the DVD and post it. The nose on those boats look stubby but I have to say she ran smooth as anything in rough seas.
Click to expand...
[/quote]
 
That's what I remember about Tollys. Lots of bow flare, blunted bow, blue stripe! Love the formica counter tops in the head and galley!
 
New 36 ft Sea Ray owner! 1981 bought on ebay and said to have leaking prop shaft seals. Would anyone have a manual with instructions as well as part numbers to change the shaft seals?? I am thinking of replacing rudder shaft seals also because condition unkown. How big a job is it?
 
another question.... (i'm going to have to stop reading threads like this as it seems the next time I go down to the boat I have that particular issue :smt021 ) anyway.... it seems I developed almost a pencil lead leak in the starboard shaft. Now that the temps have warmed back up (air temps in the 60's and 70's) it is down to a steady drip. I am still going to have them checked and tightened but will the change in temps (contraction, whatever) effect that?
 
Capn mike
I dont think SR archives back to 1981. Do you have straight drives or V? If straight, do you have dripless or old-fashioned. Gotta get the answers to these questions before anyone can help you. Old fashined is very simple with straight drives, as are re-packing rudders.

Larry: You have an EC so I'm guessing straight drives? Same Q as to CapMike. Dripless or old fashioned? I'd imagine that extreme cold could cause contraction and thus a bit more leaking?? Not really sure? I don't know much about dripless but others can probably help.
 
Yes, straight drives. They are the old fashioned type as far as original documentation goes it seems. Always have had a very slow drip (rudders as well)
 
The shafts are pretty simple. Getting the nut off might be a bear. Mine was a bit tight and crudded on. I used a large pipe wrench to loosen it. Once it's backed out all the way, slide it up the shaft and start picking away at the old packing, pulling it out piece by piece. When it's all out, cut lengths of the new packing material EXACTLY the diameter of the shaft - use the exposed part of the shaft as a guide for this. The ends have to butt perfectly up against each other. Shove the first ring into the shaft log noting where the butted end is. Cut another length to fit and shove it in staggering the butt end 90 degrees from the first one. (So if your first ring went in with the butt joint at 12 o'clock, make the next one 3 o'clock)

I think I got 4 rings in there. You want to have enough materail packed so that when you tighten the nut back on, there's enough thread to catch. If you have too many rings, you may have to remove one. I'd put three in there, tighten the nut and check it. It's easier to add a ring that have to dig the extra one back out. You want to be able to have some ability to tighten it up some more so if you run out of thread before it's snug, back it out again and add another ring.

I then put never-seeze on the packing nut threads so that you can tighten and loosen as needed by hand. Replace the cotter pin so that the nut doesnt vibrate out/off. To be honest, I took the nut off a couple of times while in the water and the thing didn't leak. The gore material is a wonder drug!

I haven't done my rudders yet but will in the next few weeks. I'll try to do a photo-doc of that procedure and post it up.
 
Ron:
Thanks for your reply!! This is my first boat with shafts. I will try to find the answers to your questions. Do you know what size diameter packing material I should use?? I tried to contact Sea Ray customer service but haven't herard back from them as of yet.
 
Ron:
What diameter material did you use? I found the gore website link you listed and want to order the correct size.
 
Mike
Mine is 1/4" but before you order get a definite answer from SR. If you emailed them they usually only take a day or so to get back.
 
Thanks Ron... Look forward to the pics... our marina mechanic looked at it today and we decided to wait and see...seems it has returned to more of a drip.. :huh:
 
I have had these recommended to me as performing better then Tide seals here at the marina I use... I myself have no Idea which is better, but I would like to know.

Lasdrop
 
Pseudomind said:
I have had these recommended to me as performing better then Tide seals here at the marina I use... I myself have no Idea which is better, but I would like to know.

Lasdrop
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Which model was installed?

The biggest issue w/ the Tides product is alignment. Ifin the alignment is off, then the body will wear prematurely.

Also the seal protector should be used so the shaft doesn't cut the lip at installation.

Those are probably also applicable to the Lasdrop.
 
I am wondering if it is easier to just repack them or go to the dripless. Any feed back on this??
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CapnMike
I still don't know if you have straight shafts or v-drives. If you have straight, save your money and repack with Gore packing for about $25 and forget about it. If you have v-drives, you have to ask someone else that question. It all depends on access. If you have good access to the stuffing boxes and can repack with gore and make an adjustmen or two thereafter, you won't have to look at them for years to follow.
 
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