Seized bolt in W/B tower

B

black magic

New Member
Mar 25, 2009
100
La Porte, TX
Boat Info
2007 185 Sport w/Tower
Engines
4.3L
Hello,
I just recently purchased a used 2007 185 sport with the wakeboard package. While preparing to store the boat in my garage I went to lower the tower. Apparently, this was the first time since it was installed that anyone has attempted it. I broke off 3 of the plastic knobs attached to the bolds in the process. That was fine because it just exposed the allen head and I wrenched two of them off without an issue. The last one was so froze up that the head busted off leaving approximately 3/4 of the stud exposed. Well, I have tried pretty much all the tricks that I have up my sleeve to remove the stud: liquid penatrant, vise grips, pipe wrench, drilling a hole and using a back-out bit(broke that off inside the stud). Any help with ideas on how to remove this stud would be greatly appriciated.

Thanks,
Jake
 
If you still have room to grab with vice-grips, can you use a small torch and heat up the area while using penetrating oil?

Have someone tap the end of the stud with a hammer while you try to tighten and loosen with the heat applied.
 
Thanks for the responces.

1. Unfortunatly I'm at work right now, so no pictures.

2. I was wondering about heating it, but my concern is that this stud is located about 4" above the boat itself and I would be worried about getting too close.

I saw a tool that attaches to a ratchet from craftsman that somehow grabs the stud, but I don't want to spend more money on tools that are either going to break or won't work in the first place.

Are there any good anti-corrosion penatrants on the market?
 
Soak a bunch of rags in water and lay them around the area your working in.

Heat with WD-40 or Liquid Wrench will free it. Tap and turn...
 
I would be careful before I just started heating it. I have burned spots in my fiberglass from using a heat gun (not NEAR as hot as a torch) when trying to remove old decals. Once it gets burned it starts to turn brown, and it stays. Not saying you can't heat it up, but I would be very careful. Maybe it can be done, maybe not. Maybe you could weld a nut onto the stud and turn it out that way. It's just hard to see the possibilities without a picture. But again, you need room to weld the nut on because the spatter and heat from that may be even worse than a torch or just some mapp gas. I have done the soaked rags thing and it worked when I had to weld a little bit of my bow rail, but each case in unique.
 
Thanks.

I know I'm not helping by asking for advice without pictures. I'll see if I can snap a couple off this evening. Plus, I'm sure you know this alread, but the bold is stainless and the tower is aluminum. Obviously those two don't mix well. To be honest, I really don't feel too comfortable putting a torch that close to the fiberglass or aluminum frame. Again, I'll try to add some pictures this evening to help paint the picture.
 
Not much of a difference if you need to solder pipe under a sink near a wall, or in the basement ceiling... protect the area and work slow. Because the tower is aluminum, you will need to have soaked rags above and below the area to keep the heat from spreading.

oh... pick up a small pocket torch, the flame is very small and they work great on small projects...
 
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What does the stainless steel bolt thread into? It has a socket head on it, passes through the aluminum tower, and threads into some sort of bracket? Is the bracket stainless? Aluminum?
 
black magic said:
Hello,
I just recently purchased a used 2007 185 sport with the wakeboard package. While preparing to store the boat in my garage I went to lower the tower. Apparently, this was the first time since it was installed that anyone has attempted it. I broke off 3 of the plastic knobs attached to the bolds in the process. That was fine because it just exposed the allen head and I wrenched two of them off without an issue. The last one was so froze up that the head busted off leaving approximately 3/4 of the stud exposed. Well, I have tried pretty much all the tricks that I have up my sleeve to remove the stud: liquid penatrant, vise grips, pipe wrench, drilling a hole and using a back-out bit(broke that off inside the stud). Any help with ideas on how to remove this stud would be greatly appriciated.

Thanks,
Jake
Click to expand...

Not sure if you have ever heard of them, but Channelock sells what's called "Stud Pliers." These things WILL NOT SLIP, EVER! I have removed anything you can think of that's siezed with these pliers. If there is anything sticking out no matter how small it is these things will work. They have saved my bacon many times and are a great tool to have on your boat and in the shop. An excellant investment in a tool, believe me.
 
The stainless bold threads directly into the aluminum tower. Stainless touching aluminum. The tower is probably 1 3/4" diameter and the threaded hole goes completely through the back side. This is how I was able to drill and try the tap_out bit. The exposed stud is on the inside portion just above where the side glass meets the side of the boat (again, pics would better describe this than my words... sorry). And yes, the bold is corroded into the aluminum frame. It actually doesn't appear bad, as far as visually, but it is froze in there none the less. The other 3 bolts were tough to remove, but they did come out.

The pocket torch with the small flame may be the best idea as far as heat. Here is a related question. How am I to heat up the stud while it is soaking in WD-40? I know how fire and WD-40 react... (oh to be 12 again :grin:)
 
Heat the bolt for a good minute, take the flame away and spray the WD-40 on the exposed threads. Wait a few seconds and put the flame back on it, you'll get a small flare up but it will go away quickly. If it dosen't, that when a spare wet rag comes in handy... try this a few times and it should come out.
 
Given that you are working with stainless and aluminum you may very well not need anything but the torch. The aluminum will soak up the heat much quicker that the bolt and expand at a quicker rate. Since what you are screwing into is expanding quicker you should be able to remove the stud with a pair of pliers after minimal heating.

Had a similar issue with a bolt on my trailer calipers. Hex head that stripped out. Tried to use Vise Grips but couldn't get the bolt to turn. Broke out the torch again and again. Fianlly, on the last heat, Dad gave me some ice cubes to put on the bolt right after heating. The flange stayed hot and expanded, the bolt cooled down and contracted and I was able to extracate the bolt. Ah, thermodynamics...
 
I appriciate all of the advice. I'll probably pick up a mini-torch after work this evening as well as that Vise-grip stud tool. I'm sure that both will come in handy after this project.

By the way, I snapped off a few pictures this morning with my phone.
 

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Protect the boat with an old blanket, wet rags and that small torch and you should be good to go.
 
H2ONUT said:
Protect the boat with an old blanket, wet rags and that small torch and you should be good to go.
Click to expand...

:thumbsup: - after seeing that think I would to the same as H2Onut has been saying. Especially being that far from the fiberglass. With that much thread sticking out you should be able to get it no prob. Also - slap some anti-seize on that bolt when you put her back together.
 
berth control said:
Also - slap some anti-seize on that bolt when you put her back together.
Click to expand...


Oh yeah, I've already got the other replacement bolts covered in it and will do the same for this as well.

Thanks everybody for your help and hopefully I'll have some good news to report after I give it another go-round.
 
Forgot one other important tip... BEER!!! COLD BEER!!! :thumbsup:
 
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