temptress
New Member
:huh:I noticed some water in the bilge this weekend and saw that my hot water heater base is rusting and seeping water. What am I looking at to fix this? is this a do it yourself job?
Seeping water at base of hot water heater
- Thread starter temptress
- Start date
Skeetobite
New Member
This is actually a very simple DIY job, which I just completed in January. I believe it took a total of 30 minutes or less. Just be sure to drain the existing unit completely before removing it.
I searched eBay until I found a deal that made sense and then ordered the new unit.
Steps should be as follows:
1. Shut off the power to the unit
2. Drain any remaining water
3. Disconnect the cold supply
4. Disconnect the Hot output side
5. Disconnect the HPV - This is the high pressure overflow valve - usually bronze
6. Remove the cover from the electrical connection and disconnect the wires
7. There are likely 2 "L" brackets with 2 or 3 screws each holding the unit down - remove these screws.
8. These units are very light when empty, so go ahead and pull it out of the space
**Be sure to put something down to set the rusty unit on or you'll have some stains.
Now reverse steps 1 through 8. If you are concerned about the wiring diagram, sketch it out or take a digital picture. Sea Ray was pretty good about matching up the wire colors though, so it should be no big deal.
Hope that helps.
I searched eBay until I found a deal that made sense and then ordered the new unit.
Steps should be as follows:
1. Shut off the power to the unit
2. Drain any remaining water
3. Disconnect the cold supply
4. Disconnect the Hot output side
5. Disconnect the HPV - This is the high pressure overflow valve - usually bronze
6. Remove the cover from the electrical connection and disconnect the wires
7. There are likely 2 "L" brackets with 2 or 3 screws each holding the unit down - remove these screws.
8. These units are very light when empty, so go ahead and pull it out of the space
**Be sure to put something down to set the rusty unit on or you'll have some stains.
Now reverse steps 1 through 8. If you are concerned about the wiring diagram, sketch it out or take a digital picture. Sea Ray was pretty good about matching up the wire colors though, so it should be no big deal.
Hope that helps.
temptress
New Member
Awesome Skeets Thanks!
How much did the replacement tank set you back, if you don't mind me askin?
How much did the replacement tank set you back, if you don't mind me askin?
Dancin Dave
Active Member
I bought mine here 5 years ago and they seemed reasonable. Check it out and good luck.
www.ducktec.com/itmidx20.htm
www.ducktec.com/itmidx20.htm
KHARRIMAN
New Member
- Dec 15, 2008
- 203
- Boat Info
- 2005- 280 DA
AIR,WATER HEATER,
5K GEN, 2007 DODGE 3500
- Engines
- TWIN MERCRUISER 5.0
BRAVO III DRIVES
+1 to Skeet
But also.... see if you can't determine the source of the leak. Before you pull the unit... are the fixtures where the hoses meet the tank leaking or inside the "white box". If it is inside- once you have the whole thing out there are about 6 small screws holding the whole thing together.... take them out. All that's in there is an aluminum tank shaped like a propane tank wrapped in insulation. When I pulled mine it was obvious that someone had repaired the inside tank...welded or something. There are no electronics or anything fancy anfter you get past the front plate.....
I pulled mine because I had bad water pressure.... the check valve was faulty...
The bottom hole is where the heatiing element should go.
GOOD LUCK>>
But also.... see if you can't determine the source of the leak. Before you pull the unit... are the fixtures where the hoses meet the tank leaking or inside the "white box". If it is inside- once you have the whole thing out there are about 6 small screws holding the whole thing together.... take them out. All that's in there is an aluminum tank shaped like a propane tank wrapped in insulation. When I pulled mine it was obvious that someone had repaired the inside tank...welded or something. There are no electronics or anything fancy anfter you get past the front plate.....
I pulled mine because I had bad water pressure.... the check valve was faulty...
The bottom hole is where the heatiing element should go.
GOOD LUCK>>
Skeetobite
New Member
temptress,
I paid $380 plus shipping. The average retail was $495 plus shipping.
There is a guy on eBay called searayman13 that I have made several purchases from over the past 3 years. He seems to have a bunch of decent stuff, but most of it I can't use due to the size of my boat. Every once in awhile he has a nugget for me to pick up though ;-)
I paid $380 plus shipping. The average retail was $495 plus shipping.
There is a guy on eBay called searayman13 that I have made several purchases from over the past 3 years. He seems to have a bunch of decent stuff, but most of it I can't use due to the size of my boat. Every once in awhile he has a nugget for me to pick up though ;-)
earthmover17
New Member
I'm with this guy. I thought mine was leaking until I pulled it apart. Heater was fine. It was one of the fittings connected to it. Not many places a heater can leak unless it rubbed a hole in it.+1 to Skeet
But also.... see if you can't determine the source of the leak. Before you pull the unit... are the fixtures where the hoses meet the tank leaking or inside the "white box". If it is inside- once you have the whole thing out there are about 6 small screws holding the whole thing together.... take them out. All that's in there is an aluminum tank shaped like a propane tank wrapped in insulation. When I pulled mine it was obvious that someone had repaired the inside tank...welded or something. There are no electronics or anything fancy anfter you get past the front plate.....
I pulled mine because I had bad water pressure.... the check valve was faulty...
The bottom hole is where the heatiing element should go.
GOOD LUCK>>
Oops time out it may be one that also heats with engine water.
Jack
rondds
Well-Known Member
- Oct 3, 2006
- 8,859
- Boat Info
- 2001 380DA
- Engines
- Merc 8.1s (2008)...Hurth ZF 63 V-drives...WB 7.0 BCGD (2013), Garmin 8208 & 740 MFDs, GMR 24xHD dome
When I bought this boat my electric-only HWH was dead as a doornail and rusty at the base. In pulling out the heating coil to replace it ($12 item), I noticed the rust was just around the box/case. The tank itself is housed inside the box and was fine. Check the fittings. Betcha that's your problem.
DaleM
Member
For me, I had the heat exchanger part of the hot water heater rust out. When I started the port engine, water was blowing into the bildge and fast. Considering I have a generator onboard all I did was use a 5/8" brass hose barb to connect the in and out hoses together to bypass the part that rusted out. I'll leave it like that until the electric side goes out and then I"ll pull and replace. Getting to mine is a bear because I'll have to remove all batteries and the drive bottle bracket to get it to clear.
tobnpr
New Member
I believe it's best to not connect the engine's cooling system the HWH unless it's needed (hot water on the hook, and no genset). If I need hot water, I'm either plugged in shoreside or running the generator. The HE in the water heater is just one more thing that can leak or rupture; it could mean a melted engine if it happens and isn't caught immediately.