Seacocks and Check Valves

[AKBASSKING]

Believe it or not my 300 has the original seacocks in it for the engines. They are basically a round rubber ball with a hole in it that you can rotate in its housing.

I am going to update it with a stainless ball style seacock.

Question 1: Should I also install a check valve inline prior to the strainer?

Question 2: Is Bronze better than Marelon?

 

[J Levine]

A lot of people, myself included, dont think marelon sea cocks should be used below the water line, I would stick with bronze. No need for a check valve, it would serve no real purpose and would effect the flow of water to the engine.

 

[67vetteal]

When replacing the Hard Suction Hose be certain to get the Hose with Two Reinforcing Wires. The Manufacturers Identification Number should include the number of Wires encased. It doesn't Kink even in a 90 Degree Bend and will resist collapsing better. And, I also would never put nothing but Bronze Fittings, Double Clamps below the water line. Al W.

 

[AKBASSKING]

Thanks.

The seacocks that are in there now must be the "original" 1986 version. Man they scare me. Dang I was hoping my bilge work was behind me.

How would you plumb in a fresh water hook up for flushing the engines? "Tee" fitting before the raw water strainer?

 

[Henry Boyd]

I'm pretty sure that bronze seacocks are required by USCG for below the waterline applications.

Henry

 

[Lazy Daze]

Stick with Bronze. It's "tried and true". That's a good point that Henry brings up - if you really want to go with the Marelon, check into that.

 

[fwebster]

Your existing seacocks are bronze housings and ends with a rubber core........I'm not sure what you will gain by switching.

 

[AKBASSKING]

Your existing seacocks are bronze housings and ends with a rubber core........I'm not sure what you will gain by switching.

You are exactly correct! Thank you. :smt038

Are the newer ball style better and safer? Less prone to leakage?

The ones I have now are not leaking, just..........if I am going to update now is the time, but am I wasting my money and time?

 

[Lazy Daze]

The seacock (installed aftermarket) in my 260DA (bronze) has what looks like an SS ball that slides against a white ?nylon? material.

 

[Asureyez]

If you existing seacocks are bronze and you are changing for no reason other than fear, I'd urge you to rethink the project. The bronze through hulls if properly bonded, will out last the hull. The internal ball valve may require some lubrication from time to time, but more than likely, just being exercised monthly will suffice.

If you have Marleon seacocks, then I'd still ask why change if they are functioning well. Now, if the actually below waterline thru hull barb is plastic, I'd get that off my boat and then change to all marine bronze.

 

[AKBASSKING]

If you existing seacocks are bronze and you are changing for no reason other than fear, I'd urge you to rethink the project. The bronze through hulls if properly bonded, will out last the hull. The internal ball valve may require some lubrication from time to time, but more than likely, just being exercised monthly will suffice.

If you have Marleon seacocks, then I'd still ask why change if they are functioning well. Now, if the actually below waterline thru hull barb is plastic, I'd get that off my boat and then change to all marine bronze.

I have the "older" seacocks that fwebster described. Bronze housing with a rubber core. You can actually take the core out by removing the 3 bolts on the side. On the opposite side is another bolt that will place tension on the rubber core and push it against the other side.

To me, the rubber core is an old design, where the ss ball with Teflon bushings would be a better choice.

But then again, if it works........