Seacock Leak

bacteria on your seacock caused the seacock to leak some sort of slimy fluids.
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There's antibiotics for that.
 
I'm not going to redo all of them. The rest of the thru-hulls for the seacocks are down in the sump areas and those areas stay dry so I can't imagine they are leaking or have a broke seal. Something to watch for though. This particular thru-hull is right next to the bulkhead that is the aft sling point and I would imagine this area is going to see the maximum stress/flex when the boat is lifted.... not sure that is a good spot for a thru hull.

I went back to the yard yesterday afternoon and the guy said he is going to put a backing plate on the thing. He said Sea Ray doesn't do that but he felt they should as it distributes the load and holds the seal better. He also said he likes to put enough 5200 on so you see it oozing out from the inside and the current one is very clean (no ooz)

So I was curious about this whole "backing plate" thing and did some digging around and sure enough, all the manufacturers call for a backing plate on the install... like this:

seacockinstall.jpg


Here's a photo of someone doing an install with one:

111120430ejKdtTop.jpg


I guess I'm curious why Sea Ray doesn't use a backing plate and just puts them right on the fiberglass....
 
Dumb ass observation but......If the manufacturer of the seacock, in this case Groco, requires a backing plate, AKA 'spreader flange' or 'BigAss washer' , to 'spread the load', why wouldn't they simply make the mounting flange of the seacock larger?

Making it resemble a triangle, would surely allow it to fit in tighter spaces, and closer to bulkheading, but then that too would seem to negate the necessity to add the spreader flange.....just saying!!!!!
 
There is a mistake in Figure-1 requiring an additional screw to be through-hulled. I can't believe the manufacturer released that drawing.
 
LTD.330 said:
There is a mistake in Figure-1 requiring an additional screw to be through-hulled. I can't believe the manufacturer released that drawing.
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There is no mistake. The instructions say you can mount it either way.

http://www.groco.net/SVC-MAN-07/Sec4/PDF/IBV-FBV-TB.pdf

The thing is held in place because the part on the outside of the hull is threaded and fits into the flanged part. The screws appear to be there to stabilize it and can be thru-hulled or not.. I'm not sure how mine is installed... we'll see.
 
Are the heads of the through bolts actually countersunk into the hull bottom like it shows, or is there a wide flange on the thru-hull that receives the bolts?

EDIT:
Never mind- typing at the same time.
 
LTD.330 said:
There is a mistake in Figure-1 requiring an additional screw to be through-hulled. I can't believe the manufacturer released that drawing.
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Depends....the cut away appears to be flush with one of three of the mounting bolts and not with the other two. The third bolt isn't even shown as it is 'behind' the base of seacock's flange. The bolt/screw head, being flush with the hull, wouldn't be seen on the second bolt.
 
I would prefer only 1 hole in the hull, with the screws only connecting the seacock and the backing plate.
 
I'm curious why Sea Ray doesn't use a backing plate and just puts them right on the fiberglass....
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It's because they use the Bayliner workers to assemble SRs.
 
Greg said:
That is a little concerning, especially since it stopped leaking once the weight was off the straps, if you were not there, you would never have known about it. I think I want to be on my boat when they put it back in now.
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This is exactly what I was thinking. When my boat gets ready to be put in or pulled out of the water we're asked to get off the boat (I'm sure it's for safety reasons). What would be the point in time when I can be allowed on the boat during the launch? Gary, did the yard allow you to stay on the boat while they were launching or did you ask them to stop midway so you could get on and check things out?
 
It seems there may be some confusion amongst a couple of posters here. Gary stated on page one that water was leaking between the triangular flange and the hull, so there is a flange to spread the load - that is part of the assembly. The additional block goes between that flange and the hull to further distribute the load. Clear as 5200?
 
Alex F said:
This is exactly what I was thinking. When my boat gets ready to be put in or pulled out of the water we're asked to get off the boat (I'm sure it's for safety reasons). What would be the point in time when I can be allowed on the boat during the launch? Gary, did the yard allow you to stay on the boat while they were launching or did you ask them to stop midway so you could get on and check things out?
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I'm not on the boat when it's up in the air but as soon as the keel touches the water, I hop on the boat. Same is true in reverse when it's lifted. I drive the boat on the slings and get off on the dock when the keel is just out of the water. The way the high concrete walls are on each side, it would be very difficult to get on/off the boat once it's in the water all the way. I also drive the boat on/off the slings within a few feet of the sling lines.

Great... now some government agency is going to come give the yard sh!t because I posted this.
 
I do the same as Gary for haul outs. I am always present, and first one on the boat and last one off. Drives the yard crazy! They always say "just leave her at the dock and we will take care of everything"
 
SR400DB said:
I do the same as Gary for haul outs. I am always present, and first one on the boat and last one off. Drives the yard crazy! They always say "just leave her at the dock and we will take care of everything"
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The yard here won't launch/lift without me there.. they expect me to drive it on/off the slings.
 
Four Suns said:
I'm not on the boat when it's up in the air but as soon as the keel touches the water, I hop on the boat. Same is true in reverse when it's lifted. I drive the boat on the slings and get off on the dock when the keel is just out of the water. The way the high concrete walls are on each side, it would be very difficult to get on/off the boat once it's in the water all the way. I also drive the boat on/off the slings within a few feet of the sling lines...
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I can see why you would want to be on the boat when it first touches the water at launch but what are you looking for when it is taken out of the water when you on board? I have never gone through this process which is why I am asking.
 
mwph said:
All of your maintenance should be performed at no cost to you. Any charges should be divided up by those rich bastards with the 60+ footers!
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You have been influenced by Ocrama to much...go hug a tree...preferably while it is being cut. LOL :smt043:smt043:smt043
 
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