On my boat there is a small “drain plug” at the base of the seacock. Can this be removed and white grease squirted in there for lubrication. Mine are extremely hard to move and I am looking for an easier way to lubricate them without have to remove the hose that is attached.
Seacock drain plug and lubrication
- Thread starter hack4alivin
- Start date
techmitch
Well-Known Member
- May 1, 2008
- 8,395
- Boat Info
- 1999 270 DA
- Engines
- Twin 4.3s W/Alpa I Gen II's
Not sure about the whole question but why would you use white/lithium grease shouldn't you use some sort of silicone based grease as apposed to petroleum or lithium based?
You should be able to close the valve and open the drain plug (s). They are there for winterization to drain the the valve and lines. How well you can get to the ball, I don't know. But I can't see in any harm in squirting some lube in there.
Remember: the seacock needs to be exercised on a regular basis - at least once a month. You could have marine growth in there.
Remember: the seacock needs to be exercised on a regular basis - at least once a month. You could have marine growth in there.
Mechanic at the Marina told me to use the lithium based grease, but he told me to pull the hoses. What a job that is, need a special tool to spread the hose a bit as it will not move.
I just happend to notice the plugs, and when I checked the website of the seacock manufacture they are "drain plugs". I was hoping to get some lube in there.
dpmulvey
Active Member
- Dec 19, 2007
- 4,188
- Boat Info
- 1999/2007 330 Sundancer Hardtop.
- Engines
- 6.2 Merc Horixons
1.5:1 Velvet Drives
If it is out of the water, could you go in via the thru hull fittings. I have seen Lithium grease in an aerosol can with an applicator at auto parts stores. Have someone stick the applicator through the grate and spray while you exercise the valve from inside the boat. I honestly don't know if the ball can go all the way around if you removed the handle. If it does, you can get both the top and bottom of the valve this way.
If not, any grease is better than no grease. You could do this in the water in a wet suit and breather.
HTH
If not, any grease is better than no grease. You could do this in the water in a wet suit and breather.
HTH
Boat is out of the water, that is why I would like to do it now.
- Oct 6, 2006
- 12,155
- Boat Info
- 1996 450DA
- Engines
- 3116 Caterpillars
I don't winterize and my boat stays in the water 12 months a year. I have replaced the plugs with ss grease fittings and I do lubricate the sea cocks as you describe, but I use Merc Anti-Corrosion grease. There is a different grease that is based on some chemistry that water won't breakdown, but I have anticorrosion grease in my grease gun, so I use it. No problems in about 10 years............for what its worth.
Thanks Frank, that is the answer I was looking for, I just didn't know if the grease going through this fitting would get to where it needed to be. Interesting idea of replacing the drain plugs with grease fittings.
The port side engine seacock is very hard to move, I would hate to have to fight that in an emergency.
The port side engine seacock is very hard to move, I would hate to have to fight that in an emergency.
Last edited:
Bodkin Creek George
Member
Great idea Frank on the Zerk Fitting.George
Alex F
Well-Known Member
- Nov 14, 2006
- 9,166
- Boat Info
- 2005 420DB with AB 11 DLX Tender, Raymarine Electronics (2x12" MFDs) with Vesper AIS
- Engines
- Cummins 450Cs, 9KW Onan Generator, 40HP Yamaha for tender.
Frank,
This is a great idea. I'm guessing the size and thread had matched the zerk fittings. Did you apply some kind of thread sealer when putting the fittings in?
