Sea Ray cabin tables

JV II

JV II

Active Member
Nov 17, 2007
2,655
RI
Boat Info
Flybridge
Engines
Volvo V-Drive
I have a beautiful and well made Sea Ray table in my salon. It has two deep nicks in the surface that penetrate the clear finish down to the veneer. I can fill it if I knew what the clear finish was made from. Does anyone know? Is it acrylic, poly, or some other varnish?
 
JV II said:
I have a beautiful and well made Sea Ray table in my salon. It has two deep nicks in the surface that penetrate the clear finish down to the veneer. I can fill it if I knew what the clear finish was made from. Does anyone know? Is it acrylic, poly, or some other varnish?
Click to expand...

I have the same issue with my table. There are light scratches in the varnish so i tried to wet sand out with 1000 grit. it looks better but not like we would have liked. We just made a fitted cover for it in ultra leather.
 
You really have to go with 2000 and then 3000 grit and then hit it with an orbital buffer with polishing compound. I can restore the table by filling those holes in the deep varnish, then cutting it level with a straight edge razor, then sanding, then polishing. I just need to know what the finish is made out of.
 
Here's the response I got from Sea Ray:

"their web site, TPL company that made your table, indicates polyester resin. May want to contact them to confirm.
http://www.tplmanufacturing.com/marine.html"

Now, where to get a touch up sized portion of polyester resin without buying gigantic hull repair sized portion?
 
JV II said:
Here's the response I got from Sea Ray:

"their web site, TPL company that made your table, indicates polyester resin. May want to contact them to confirm.
http://www.tplmanufacturing.com/marine.html"

Now, where to get a touch up sized portion of polyester resin without buying gigantic hull repair sized portion?
Click to expand...

Ehh just get the 55 gal drum, you'll get a better unit price if you buy in bulk anyway!
 
I am in the process of buying a 2005 420DA, the PO said they left the salon table on the back of their boat and the sun got so hot it practically melted the finish on the table, after my offer they felt like they should fix the table so they shipped the table to Thomas Anthony Furnture Service in Deerfield Beach, FL (954-421-4911) to have it restored better than it originally was. This is the process they are doing before they ship it to me in Michigan. They also make marine tables for mega yachts.
They have the table already stripped, applied several coats of epoxy, and sanded smooth.The veneer is beautiful !! They are now in the process of staining the table and then they will apply several coats of an acrylic urethane which needs to dry for about 1 week. After that it will be wet sanded and buffed to a mirror like finish. Since it is being shipped we should probably wait about 2 weeks once it is all done since it takes about 30 days to fully cure. So to be safe I would say 3-4 weeks it will be ready to ship.
 
J.Wilt said:
I am in the process of buying a 2005 420DA, the PO said they left the salon table on the back of their boat and the sun got so hot it practically melted the finish on the table, after my offer they felt like they should fix the table so they shipped the table to Thomas Anthony Furnture Service in Deerfield Beach, FL (954-421-4911) to have it restored better than it originally was. This is the process they are doing before they ship it to me in Michigan. They also make marine tables for mega yachts.
They have the table already stripped, applied several coats of epoxy, and sanded smooth.The veneer is beautiful !! They are now in the process of staining the table and then they will apply several coats of an acrylic urethane which needs to dry for about 1 week. After that it will be wet sanded and buffed to a mirror like finish. Since it is being shipped we should probably wait about 2 weeks once it is all done since it takes about 30 days to fully cure. So to be safe I would say 3-4 weeks it will be ready to ship.
Click to expand...

I'm not trying to be difficult, but wood that has been coated with polyester resin and then epoxied is not going to take stain. Unless they intend to run the table under a planer and remove about ¾" of wood, there is no way stain will do anything.

Henry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
 
Henry,
The staining after epoxy concerned me also but they reassured me it would be beautiful and be able to withstand the weather if placed in the cockpit area. I will post pics when it shows up.
 
I'll document the repair. Give me a couple of weeks.
 
I just got good info from the manufacturer. The finish is actually Ilva clear polyurethane.
 
So, it is nearly impossible to get a small sample of Ilva Polyurethane. The other problem is that the chip would need to be filled in multiple passes to allow the deep part to cure. The process would require a week to just fill the 2mm deep void and have it cured from bottom to top.

I called back the manufacturer and they indicated the finish is actually two parts: a deep layer of polyester resin and a top coat of 2-part acrylic urethane. They offered two other possible solutions: 1. multiple filling layers of 2-part automotive acrylic urethane OR 2. filling it to the top with clear epoxy resin. The first option would less likely produce a halo around the repair. The best practical and less visible option would be a combination of the two, fill with clear epoxy resin and spray the entire table with one coat of 2-part automotive acrylic urethane.

So, I'm going with #2 and see how bad the halo is in my low light cabin.
 
You have done the hard part....i.e. figuring out the chemistry.

I've done small repairs like this on resin+final finish woodwork before and have had great luck West Systems 105 resin + 207 clear hardener. West System products are very easy to work with and give superior results and the clear 207 hardener will not change the color of the repaired area.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/product-selection-chart

Before spraying the entire table, I'd try to do a spot repair by filling the hole partially full with epoxy then filling the remainder with the automotive clear. It will take several coats with block sanding with 400-600 grit paper between coats but you might get by with blending the repair and buffing out the spot rather then shooting the whole table top. It is worth a try because spraying the entire top means you will have to wet sand the whole table several times up to about 1500 grit and then buff the final finish which is a lot of work and exposes you to the risk of burn thru with the buffer. If the spot finish method doesn't work to suit you, you haven't lost anything because you will have the damaged area level and will need to spray the entire top anyway.

Handy tools: a source for clean dry compressed air, artist brushes and a decent air brush.

These projects always seem daunting when you are preparing and getting into them, but they are actually prep easy and very rewarding once you get to the finish line.....have fun with it.
 
Received pictures today of my refinished cabin table from Anthony Furnture Service, all I can say is WOW:thumbsup:
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
katricol said:
Do you know what this is going to cost Grave decision ??
Click to expand...
I didn't have to pay anything, the previous owner of my boat paid for this table to be refinished, part of purchase agreement.
You could call Anthony Furnishing Service tel:954-421-4911 and get a quote.
 
Asked the PO and they said it was around $975.00 to refinish plus they paid for shipping it to me with $5,000.00 insurance if it gets damaged or lost in shipment. Pretty sweet deal for me, bad for them. Just don't leave this type of table in direct sun or high heat for long periods of time.
 
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