Safely towing another boat.....

[Gofirstclass]

In the past I’ve towed about 1-2 boats a year that have run out of gas, had the engine quit or for some other reason. Since we bought Beachcomber we tend to go to out of the way places so lately we haven’t towed anyone. Over the years I’ve come up with some good things to be aware of when towing another boat to make it safer for everyone involved. Here’s a few items in no particular order….

-The boat to be towed should transfer all of it’s passengers to the tow boat except for the skipper of the towed boat. Everyone on both boats should don a PFD.

-The line to the towed boat should be fastened to the bow eye, or as low as possible on the boat to keep the bow high.

-The tow line should be long enough that when the tow boat stops or slows, the towed boat has time to come to a stop so it doesn’t run into the tow boat.

-It’s best to use a heavy line that has some ability to stretch and absorb any shocks.

-It’s a good idea to tie a towel or PFD about midway down the tow line. This way if the line breaks it won’t be as likely to snap back into the towed boat.

-Hand signals between the tow boat and towed boat should be the same as for water sports, and should be clarified before starting the tow.

-For better control of the towed boat, before approaching a dock it should be brought alongside the tow boat and fastened to the side as it would be in rafting up.

-Weight distribution in the tow boat is critical. You don’t want everyone seated in the stern unless there’s nowhere else available.

-The tow line should be fastened to the tow boat using a bridle attached to two cleats if possible.

-On an I/O boat that is to be towed the lower units should be raised about half way. You want them in the water enough to still help with steering but high enough to minimize drag.

Anyone else got any ideas?

 

[northern]

How does your insurance work when you tow some one. If you damage their boat are you responsible. If their boat damages your who is responsible. If some one is injured or killed are their legal ramification. Where we boat you hear calls once a week or so from the Coast Guard asking for assistance from boaters that break down. The Coast Gard always asks the boater if he will accept commercial salvage assistance.
With the world such a sue you place I will help the people if in danger but I leave the boat work to the professionals.

 

[BillK2632]

Gofirstclass - That's a pretty good list. Really the times I have towed someone it's been a small boat (<25ft) and pretty calm conditions. More often I have run someone to a dock or marina to get gas, once I gave a guy a jump start, he had jumper cables in his boat. I'm not going to take on a 35ft cruiser with my 20ft bowrider, in a couple of cases where I was not comfortable towing a large boat I have offered a ride or to stand by until a towboat arrives.

I think you just have to assess the situation:

If it's a family in a small bowrider and they need a tow a short distance to the ramp or a dock, then do it.
If they need a ride to get gas or tools, then do it.
If it's a 30ft cruiser on the rocks and your in a 20ft boat - call a professional.
If they need a 20mile tow across the sound in bad weather, call a professional.
If you are not sure of your ability to tow them, your equipment etc, just tell them that and - call a professional.
If you are worried about your insurance, liability or payment - call a professional.
If you can spend 30min of your time and a few $$ in gas to help someone or save their day on the water - then do it.
I know a friendly smile and a "hey need some help?" when you are broken down on the water is welcome sight.

 

[JimG]

Good list... I would add:

It's best to use a 1/2" or 3/4" hollow braid polypropylene line.

This does two things... 1)If it breaks it will not snap back to the tow boat and, 2)It will float on the surface and stay out of your props when there is any slack.

 

[2000SR380]

The insurance thing is a tricky wicket. If you decide to help you are protected by the "Good Samaritan" law, but if everything goes south the person you are attempting to help can still sue you for ""Bad Seamanship". Likewise your insurance company probably has a clause to exempt them, if you do not demonstrate what they think is "good seamanship". If you have doubts about your abilities, the weather is bad, or you think your boat is too small, do not hesitate to refuse a tow. Take a page from the Coast Guard. You have a legal (and moral) obligation to save lives. You can call for help, stand by until a suitable towboat arrives, and do what is prudent to get people out of the water. Never jeopardize yourself, or your boat, attempting a rescue beyond your abilities. There is no legal or moral obligation to save property. If you call professional towing, that is NOT your BoatUS membership number, agree on the price BEFORE they get a towboat underway. With all that said, most of the time recreational mariners tow each other for expenses, or a 'thank you' and a favorite beverage. It is good to be the hero, and next time the disabled boat might be you

 

[JimT]

Keep in mind that a small boat towing a large load can pull the stern underwater.

 

[ttmott]

Actually, the correct way to "tow" another boat is to fender and tie along side. Steerage is much better. This last summer I hauled a 42 foot sail boat (he had a broken rudder) to a safe harbor and strapping along side was the best control in some congested waterways and difficult maneuvering. It was revenge of the stink boats when coming into the marina...

 

[2000SR380]

Actually, the correct way to "tow" another boat is to fender and tie along side. Steerage is much better. This last summer I hauled a 42 foot sail boat (he had a broken rudder) to a safe harbor and strapping along side was the best control in some congested waterways and difficult maneuvering. It was revenge of the stink boats when coming into the marina...

We do side tie when coming out of a slip, or going into the Marina. As you say, it gives you much better control. But on open water with wind or chop a long tow line as described by 'gofirstclass' is much easier, and prevents the boats from banging and rubbing together. We were a little slow switching to a stern tie coming out of Berkeley Marina one day. It was blowing about 18-20, with a 2-3 foot chop. But there was traffic in the channel and not much room to maneuver inside the breakwater. I was standing on the tube of the 28 foot Protector, when the 32 foot sailboat we had side-tied hit the first big wave. It was an awesome demonstration of why we use a boat with rubber sides, and the limitations of a side tow on open water. We had the lines as tight as we could get them and we had four lines on. For a second, I could not reach the deck of the sailboat over my head. Once we got the stern tow line going we easily navigated the cut in the pier, and the several mile journey to the next Marina. Once inside the second breakwater, we side tied again, and put the sailboat right into her new slip. I am sure there are perfect stories, of perfect tows, in perfect conditions. But those are not the ones where you learn anything. In boating, good judgment comes from experience, and experience (mostly)comes from bad judgment. I am glad I am the one they call when there is a difficult job, or dicey conditions. It is not about the pay. I have a day job.

 

[Gofirstclass]

ttmott, I'm not sure I'd stick my neck out and suggest that there is only one correct way. I would not want a boat tied to the side of my boat if there are waves or wakes to contend with. That's too easy to damage one boat or the other.

For difficult maneuvering around a marina, yeah, I've done that because the maneuverability is so much better.. But for towing any distance I do not want the boat alongside. I'd rather have him 50' or 100' behind me.

I have three tow lines on board that I can use with my Whaler or for towing a disabled boat. All three attach to my bridle which extends about 15' beyond my swim platform. The three are 25', 50', and 100' long. I also have a bridle that attaches to my Whaler and can be used to attach to the boat being towed.

 

[ttmott]

You are right for open water and it's simple. Getting another safely in to a busy or tight area is what I meant but not well communicated.

 

[SWF340]

-It’s best to use a heavy line that has some ability to stretch and absorb any shocks.

Yes. Polyester, nylon, polypro...in that order.

It's best to use a 1/2" or 3/4" hollow braid polypropylene line. It will float on the surface and stay out of your props when there is any slack.

No.

The best line for towing is polyester. It has excellent strength, though not that of nylon. It stretches less than half what nylon does and therefore is safer. It is very resistant to UV, and it sinks which is preferable in a towing situation as it won't get caught in the running gear and provides a catenary (the dip in the line about halfway between boats). Also, and this happens...polyester's higher melting point means the line will not weaken as rapidly when there is considerable friction at points of attachment. This is true of nylon as well.

Nylon is strong but has too much stretch which is dangerous in the event of a break. A lot of bridles are made with nylon because of the strength. Bridles tend to be relatively short and the stretch isn't as important. Nylon is the second best choice.

The least favorable choice is polypropylene. True, it has similar strength and stretch characteristics as polyester, but the similarities stop there. It is not very UV resistant and degrades relatively rapidly. It is lightweight and therefore does not provide a catenary nor does it sink. Polypro is the most likely to get caught in your running gear if it breaks or the towed boat's running gear when around the dock. Also, polypro has a low melting point and is subject to friction degradation at attachment points around cleats etc.

Gfc has a pretty good list, especially for shorter distance and lighter weight tows in calmer waters like lakes and rivers. Ocean tows are a different matter altogether, although Gfc's list is still pretty good. It's difficult to provide in a singe post the breadth of experience he has had which helped him create his list.

 

[Boater420]

I would add to the list...

-Have a plan for when you arrive at your destination.
-Both parties should have a knife to cut free in case of emergency
-Cell phone communication or VHF is much better than hand signals
-Make sure you have enough fuel, towing burns more fuel than expected
-Once connected, let the line out slowly, just don't toss it all in the water

 

[HomePort]

There is some excellent advice in this thread.

I'd like to offer one more suggestion: if another boat has run aground and you decide to try to help them... careful not to run aground yourself.

Oh, and if you don't have towing insurance, you're out of your mind. It's some of the most useful insurance you can buy. The highest level policy from BoatUS is less than $200. Without it, one hour of towing will cost you $200.

You know what they say ... there are three kinds of captains: 1) those that have run aground 2) that that haven't but will and 3) those that have but lie about it.

I ran aground once. It was an hour after I proposed to my now wife. Fortunately, we were so happy, we didn't have a care in the world. BoatUS came to the rescue. In fact, they sent a boat that couldn't free us so they sent a second bigger boat while we waited for the tide to come in. I hit bottom at low low tide during a spring tide. I was following a track that I had safely navigated many time before but this time there just wasn't enough water. If it wasn't for towing insurance that would have been a very, very expensive day.

- Michael

 

[2000SR380]

There is some excellent advice in this thread.

Oh, and if you don't have towing insurance, you're out of your mind. It's some of the most useful insurance you can buy. The highest level policy from BoatUS is less than $200. Without it, one hour of towing will cost you $200.

You know what they say ... there are three kinds of captains: 1) those that have run aground 2) that that haven't but will and 3) those that have but lie about it.

- Michael

I like "lie about it". I had heard their are 1)captains who have run aground 2) Captains who have not run aground yet 3) Captains who will run aground again.

 

[Gofirstclass]

Boater420 has added some excellent items, the first of which I've always done but didn't think to put it on the list.

Others have added great things also. I'm going to have to revise my list and save it in WORD for future reference.

Anyone else?

 

[Bob & Sue]

ttmott, I'm not sure I'd stick my neck out and suggest that there is only one correct way. I would not want a boat tied to the side of my boat if there are waves or wakes to contend with. That's too easy to damage one boat or the other.

For difficult maneuvering around a marina, yeah, I've done that because the maneuverability is so much better.. But for towing any distance I do not want the boat alongside. I'd rather have him 50' or 100' behind me.

I have three tow lines on board that I can use with my Whaler or for towing a disabled boat. All three attach to my bridle which extends about 15' beyond my swim platform. The three are 25', 50', and 100' long. I also have a bridle that attaches to my Whaler and can be used to attach to the boat being towed.

I also like a bridle on the boat in tow it seems to keep both boats going in a more controllable path.

The only time we've used a side tow is going into a waterway to the marina, always call ahead or get hold of the marina on VHF to find out which side to tie to easier to side tie out in the open than at the marinas dock when you find out you can't maneuver to get it to the dock because of space, wind, current.

 

[Billfletcher]

Good advice in all of these. I think this side tie comment is especially relevant.

We do side tie when coming out of a slip, or going into the Marina. As you say, it gives you much better control. But on open water with wind or chop a long tow line as described by 'gofirstclass' is much easier, and prevents the boats from banging and rubbing together. We were a little slow switching to a stern tie coming out of Berkeley Marina one day. It was blowing about 18-20, with a 2-3 foot chop. But there was traffic in the channel and not much room to maneuver inside the breakwater. I was standing on the tube of the 28 foot Protector, when the 32 foot sailboat we had side-tied hit the first big wave. It was an awesome demonstration of why we use a boat with rubber sides, and the limitations of a side tow on open water. We had the lines as tight as we could get them and we had four lines on. For a second, I could not reach the deck of the sailboat over my head. Once we got the stern tow line going we easily navigated the cut in the pier, and the several mile journey to the next Marina. Once inside the second breakwater, we side tied again, and put the sailboat right into her new slip. I am sure there are perfect stories, of perfect tows, in perfect conditions. But those are not the ones where you learn anything. In boating, good judgment comes from experience, and experience (mostly)comes from bad judgment. I am glad I am the one they call when there is a difficult job, or dicey conditions. It is not about the pay. I have a day job.