Running inboards on land

[Ka1oxd]

When it comes to inboards, I am a newbie. I have had I/O or outboard engines over the last 30 years. Is there a way to run the motors or generators on land? I know I will not be able to put the engines in gear since the cutlass would burn up without water flow.

Or would it be better to just wait until the boat is in the water?

 

[Jimmy Buoy]

I have just removed the water intake hose from the thru hull, placed it in a vertical position, and insert a running garden hose. The water will just flow out the top of the hose until you start the engine. The engine will draw more water at idle than most garden hoses can supply so you'll know if the engines are drawing cooling water.

Just remember to reattach and double clamp the hose back onto the thru-hull after you're done!:thumbsup:

 

[rcknecht]

I would not put the engines in gear when the boat is on land

 

[Alex F]

When it comes to inboards, I am a newbie. I have had I/O or outboard engines over the last 30 years. Is there a way to run the motors or generators on land?...

Ka1oxd,

The answer is YES. The easiest method is:
1. close seacock for the engine to be started.
2. open seastrainer for the same engine.
3. Take the garden hose and stick it in the seastrainer.
4. Turn on water, let it spill over in the engine room, if the drain plug is out, the water will just drain out, otherwise bildge pump with pump it out.
5. Start your engine on the side where water is supplied and you'll see that the water is no longer spilling in the ER, but runs out of the exshaust.
6. When ready to shut it, shut the engine and shut off the water.

The same applies to generator. Watch out for the time it takes to start the genny. If it doesn't start in a short while you should shut the water supply to prevent fludding the cylinders. Work to get it started and only then turn the water back on.

Try to limit the time water runs with engine off. You should not flud the engine, b/c water spills over the seastrainer. Also, keep RPMs under 1000 or so.

 

[Skeetobite]

This inboard is running on land!

As mentioned above, be sure you have a hose in your strainer and the seacock is closed. Make sure the hose is providing plenty of volume. Watch your temps closely. A little fresh water in your bilge is no big deal. All good advice above, especially the part about not engaging the transmission - safety issue.

Here we are testing my new engine before we dropped it in:

 

[VinceR]

I hear there is a 'fresh water" flush kit that can be installed on inboards where the hose may be connected without opening the engine hatch.

 

[Alex F]

My boat is equiped by SR with flushing kit. I think they're called "Blue Water Engines" or something like that. This flushing kit is not designed to avoid opening the engine hatch. In fact you have to, b/c the fittings are right on the engine, although with easy access. I had fabricated my own setup where I ran hoses to my stern locker, which allows me to flush the engines and genny only by turning the valves.

 

[rcknecht]

I hear there is a 'fresh water" flush kit that can be installed on inboards where the hose may be connected without opening the engine hatch.

I attached 1 1/4" fittings with hose connections and valves between the through hull valve and strainer on my port engine, and after the strainer on my starboard engine.. I also installed 3/4" fittings on my generator and AC raw water lines... A word of warning if you do a similar set up, do not run the water without the engines or generator running... I hydrolocked my generator, and now it is in pieces on my garage floor:smt089:smt021... I use the connections for winterization...

 

[AKBASSKING]

You could install one of these.....

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...L=true&storeNum=6&subdeptNum=169&classNum=202

 

[Dasch Boat]

read the reviews, it's plastic. I wouldn't use plastic fittings on my raw water intakes.IMHO

 

[AKBASSKING]

read the reviews, it's plastic. I wouldn't use plastic fittings on my raw water intakes.IMHO

Why? As long as you inspect it on a regular bases...........:huh:

 

[Lazy Daze]

Deleted... for not reading the original question well enough. :smt101

 

[rcknecht]

read the reviews, it's plastic. I wouldn't use plastic fittings on my raw water intakes.IMHO

The bronze fittings I used cost $12 for the 1 1/4" and $8 for the 3/4".
Engines: two 1 1/4" nipple, two 1 1/4" T and two 3/4" nipple, two 3/4" stainless ball valves, and two 3/4" male pipe to hose nipples, and two brass hose caps...

Samething for generator and AC but 3/4" Ts and nipples...

 

[Redhook98]

You can run them on land, but they are not to fast.... ;-)

 

[Dasch Boat]

IMO if / when the plastic fitting cracks you will be discharging raw water into your bilge. fresh or salt not a good thing. if the intent is to remove the Perko set up before the boat is splashed then plastic is not an issue.

 

[Ka1oxd]

Thanks all for the input. I need to flush the oil in the engines a couple of times before I do another oil sample and send it out for testing. This is good so that I can have this done before the boat goes in the water. Thanks!

I do have to say one thing about this site, every question I have posted has returned wonderful information back. Thanks all.

 

[Redhook98]

I have the plastic flush-outs mounted to a manifold that I can reach top-sides. Never had a problem with the plastic. I inspect a few times per season.