Rudder packing size on 99 400 Sundancer

peterkvs

peterkvs

Active Member
Nov 11, 2012
511
Guntersville, Alabama
Boat Info
400 Sundancer 1999
Engines
3116 Cats, 1000 hours
Does anyone know the diameter of the rudder packing material on a 99 400 DA Sundancer? I think it is either 1/4" or 9/16".

Thanks,

Pete
 
Not sure but my 480 was 1/4"


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Measure GFO Marine Shaft Packing Size

Its easy to determine which size GFO fiber packing you need. Just measure distance between A and B. ID of the stuffing box, OD of the shaft

Available sizes - 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8" - accommodate most power and sail boats. Other sizes available on special order.

Buck Algonquin Bronze Packing Boxes are usually the following sizes and take the following packing size:
Shaft Size Packing Size
3/4" 3/8"
7/8" 5/16"
1" 1/4"
1 1/8" 3/16"
1 1/4" 1/4"
1 3/8" 5/16"
1 1/2" 1/4"
1 3/4" 1/2"
2" 3/8"
 
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Thanks Guys.

There is no mention of the packing on the parts list. It does say that the rudder shaft is 1.5". Buck Algonquin makes two stuffing boxes that have 1.5" shafts. One has a 1/4" packing and the other is 9/16". The larger size seems huge.

If I do the math, 1.5" shaft, plus 2 x 1/4" for the packing and then 2 x 1/8" for the wall thickness of the packing nut, I get 2.25" which is I believe the size of the wrench required to tighten the packing nut. Unfortunately I can't get down to the boat to look and see, and I really want to order the correct GFO Packing material.

So far 1/4" seems to make the most sense.

Pete
 
I would bet it is 1/4" remember to only loosen the top nut and not the bottom.


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peterkvs said:
I thought the bottom nut was a jam nut. What does it do and why can't I move it?

Pete
Click to expand...
I first loosened the bottom locking nut, then removed the top nut from its threads, slid it up the rudder shaft, added two new rings of 1/4" packing into the space in the top nut, pushed the top nut down to engage with its threads, tightened it down until it was snug, then tightened the locking nut.

I did not dig out what little was left of the old packing first. Most will recommend to do that which would mean probably at least 3 new rings to add.

Sorry I mentioned the wrong document. The 1/4" packing was called out on page 2.11 in the general 97-04 sport yacht owner's manual.
 
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When I was doing research, basically the consensus was that the height of the ham nut(lower nut) should not change and just listen the packing nut. So that is what I have always done. Maybe it has to do with rudder height?? Anyway, the steps ZZ mention are good to follow. Process is easy and can be done in the water.


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mquiet said:
When I was doing research, basically the consensus was that the height of the ham nut(lower nut) should not change and just listen the packing nut. So that is what I have always done. Maybe it has to do with rudder height?? Anyway, the steps ZZ mention are good to follow. Process is easy and can be done in the water.


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Click to expand...
Its true that the locking nut wont go any lower when adding packing, but when you add packing the top nut won't tighten down as far. So you will need to move the locking nut up to lock to the packing nut.
 
Wow, just now noticed my typos. Sorry. Was typing on phone. ZZ, my understanding is that thread between lower nut and packing nut is ok. When they are resting on one another it is time to replace or add another thread of packing. Am I missing something?


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mquiet said:
Wow, just now noticed my typos. Sorry. Was typing on phone. ZZ, my understanding is that thread between lower nut and packing nut is ok. When they are resting on one another it is time to replace or add another thread of packing. Am I missing something?


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Click to expand...
I always just figured it was a locking nut. Every instruction I've read on doing this calls it a locking nut.
 
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Pete - I've done maintenance on both of mine and it's a very simple arrangement. I was able to use channel locks but next time definitely will get a stuffing box wrench; it's a tight area in there and not much room to swing the wrench while squatting like a monkey in a tree... First get some WD on the threads below the jamb nut and clean with a wire brush; then put the wrench on the jamb nut and with a mallet knock it loose clockwise and thread down. Run that jamb nut up and down the gland threads a couple of times with the WD to smooth out it's travel which will make it better to jamb up to the gland nut in the end. Then get some WD on the rudder shaft and clean that as required and loosen the gland nut until it's off and slide it up to the shaft support. There is not much room to work but it can be done. I would pull any old packing I could get at out and replace so the packing nut will thread down to about where it was. The new packing should be cut so it wraps one time around the shaft and the ends cut at 45 degrees so they overlap; for every one you remove install a new one and offset the end joints. Once the packing is installed slide the nut down and thread until starting to compress the packing; put another one wrench flat turn or so on the gland nut until it's snug. Cycle the rudders left and right eight or ten times and snug the packing down more until any leakage is stopped. Repeat until the packing gland nut remains consistent from a "tightness" aspect. It's important to not over tighten the gland nut just to set the new packing and stop leakage. Lastly, thread up the jamb nut and knock it tight against the gland nut and clean up the mess....
Tom
 
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