Rewiring my 88 Searay Laguna

Any feedback appreciated
 

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Any feedback or recommendations would be appreciated.
 

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Your first post shows the switches connected together in what's known as a "daisy-chain". 'Not the preferred method for anything that draws a lot of power. Think "bilge pump", "windlass"; stuff like that. The yellow and black wires are probably just for the indicator lights in the switches, so not drawing a lot of power. I'd leave/duplicate that aspect of it just to keep things neat and tidy. @Juliery showed you a buss/fuse combo that makes things w-a-a-y easier when you're starting from scratch. Using that buss allows the fuses to all be in one place, and is a much better way to distribute the power out to the individual switches. Just bring one large power cable to that, then branch out to the switches. More pictures as you progress!
 
I was wondering what's the purpose of the section that I circled and how I need to add that to the diagram.
 

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Those are your circuit breakers and should coincide with the switches. If they're still usable, they'd be preferred over fuses, as they don't have to be replaced once blown. The yellow dots below are probably indicator lights from the original switches.

Google search for electrical symbols for switches, lights, and circuit breakers/fuses for the symbols you need in your schematic.
 
The part you circled are circuit breakers. You don't need those with your fuse block. Don't forget your fuse in the supply wire, just off the battery.
 
Might be a silly question but I'm just wondering while I'm doing this wiring will the motor and boat itself still be functional?
 
This is what's in my cart for project plus I have 16 Guage marine wire for led lights. I want to try to have everything I need for this project before I start.
 

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Nater Potater said:
Your first post shows the switches connected together in what's known as a "daisy-chain". 'Not the preferred method for anything that draws a lot of power. Think "bilge pump", "windlass"; stuff like that. The yellow and black wires are probably just for the indicator lights in the switches, so not drawing a lot of power. I'd leave/duplicate that aspect of it just to keep things neat and tidy. @Juliery showed you a buss/fuse combo that makes things w-a-a-y easier when you're starting from scratch. Using that buss allows the fuses to all be in one place, and is a much better way to distribute the power out to the individual switches. Just bring one large power cable to that, then branch out to the switches. More pictures as you progress!
Click to expand...
Yes I'll keep the switches as is but I'll want Indicator lights working.
 
Nothing wrong with 16 ga. for LED's but not for too much else. When you use crimp connectors like the spades, get a quality, ratcheting crimper and use it correctly - with the designated side toward the crimp. Otherwise your "crimp" is not crimped.
Captain "L" said:
Fuse between battery and fuse box?
Click to expand...
Definitely - it protects the wire run and limits current input to the distribution block. A circuit breaker is fine too. However, don't just reset the breaker - figure out what caused it to trip, first.
 
Captain "L" said:
I'm looking to wire
LED lights through out the boat
Striker 4 fish finder
Spotlight (2 side kickers)
Navigation lights including stern(will upgrade to led nav)
Stereo
Maybe live well
Will I need something heavier than
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NV0BNM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
? If so where? Fuse box to switch panel?
Click to expand...
What is recommended is to measure the length of the wire run, round trip, determine the amperage draw of the device, then consult a 12 volt awg table to choose the correct wire size. Do not guess. Do not "cheap out". As mentioned earlier, LED's typically draw very little, except for spotlights. A fish finder draws little but a powerful stereo can draw a whole lot. Every device will have a label with the amperage requirement for that device.
 
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