retro fit a windless

[Bigadventure]

Hi All,
I have a 1996 Sundancer 25' and want to install awindless, getting old and anchor is getting heavier.

If anyone has done this and has a few pics to get an idea from I would like to hear from you,

Thank You,
Bigadventure:smt100

 

[Sorrento 25]

I have installed one on my boat, and I have a friend with the same boat as yours that installed one on his.

What he did was remove the anchor locker cover and cut a new one from Starboard for additional strength and to save the original.

He then mounted the windlass to it, and installed the wiring, switches, and breaker. I believe he may have added an additional latch but I'm not sure.

 

[keokie]

It's certainly doable. It can be a complex procedure if your install requires a lot of reinforcement as mine did. Here's a pic of the final product.

 

[Quint4]

I rewired my windlass because the prevoius owner undersized the wire. It is a long run with potentially high amp draws. Do not skimp on your wire. Use 8g or 6g depending on your windlass.

 

[Bigadventure]

Thanks for the input.

Bigadventure

 

[MLauman]

I installed one on my '97 270, which I believe is very similar to your 250 in the area of the anchor locker. Unfortunately, I didn't take any pics during installation, but here's a decent one of the finished product...

I think you will have best results with a horizontal model rather than a vertical one because of limited vertical clearance in the locker. I used a Lewmar Horizon 600 Freefall and have been extremely pleased with it.

I installed a piece of 2x12 treated lumber in the anchor locker under the windlass. It runs fore and aft and extends well under the 'lip' on each end - it's probably close to 3' long. The windlass bolts are attached to this lumber (thru the door). I'm quite sure the locker door could be easily yanked off if it were the only thing holding the unit.

You can also see the foot switch for raising the anchor. (That's an air horn on the other side of the windlass.)

I ran LARGE (4ga I think) wires from there to a relay in the bilge. Then more large wires to the battery switch. The helm and foot switches have relatively small wires running to the relay.

Lewmar has excellent installation info in their manuals - available online. There's also a video series on windlass installation HERE

 

[wakeup 19]

Once you get it in use chain for at least 50' depending on where you boat. It holds better and lifts much easier than wet rope in the windlass. I am adding on 50' to the 15' I already have. But if you buy it new you can probably order it custom. I work with a shop in Florida who has good prices on chain (under $ 2.00/ foot for 1/4" galvy if interested)

 

[Chris Dauth]

My 270 WE didn't have a windlass so I installed a new Muir vertical. There is no hatch over the chain locker but the existing hole for the hause pipe was the right diameter for the winch. Two days work to strip out the port side lining in the cabin so I could get the cables thru. The relay, I mounted in the engine room.
Here is a couple of tips I have learnt over the years. Have the main circuit breaker in easy reach. I mounted mine on the instrument panel. The day will come when you'll pick up a log and trip the breaker and it will happen at the most inconvinent time. Also a couple of up / down deck switches are a must. I should have run the wires for the deck switches while I had the trim pulled out,, But,,,.

Anyway a great way to avoid pulling the boat appart to install deck switches. Deck switches here in Australia are about $80 each. So, I found on eBay a wireless remote control they use on FWD, RV's etc., for their winches. Wired it in parallel with the manual winch swiths, and away she goes. Only have to take the remote, key ring size, forhead, and I can run the winch. Cost me $30 and 10 minutes work. Has an operating range of 200 yards.