Replacing the water heater in 260

[smittyasc3]

I have to replace the water heater in my 03 260 sundancer and was thinking of lift the base of the heater 1" off the floor in the engine compartment with 1" square stainless tube. Anyone think this could be a problem? Also the heat exchanger portion of the heater is filled with rust. What would you reccomend to flush the lines from the manifold to the heater? Should I connect the lines togehter to bypass the heater and run the engine with fresh water flush kit for a while?

 

[Lazy Daze]

Why would you want to raise it off the floor?

Do you get rust out of the block drains, as well?

Do you have a closed cooling system ("manifold to the heater")?

By the way, I replaced mine with an 11-gallon unit and it fit just fine.

 

[smittyasc3]

I thought if I raise it off the floor it will help prevent condensation from building up and slow the rust factor.

No rust when draining engine.

It's a saltwater cooling system so sea water is running through everything.

I want to install a fresh water flush kit on the engine if anyone can reccomend one.

 

[Nehalennia]

It may be too late for it to be worth adding a closed cooling system now. How long has it been run in saltwater?

 

[smittyasc3]

140 hours

 

[smittyasc3]

Actually not look to install a closed system now just a flush kit onto the engine. Any ideas?

 

[Lazy Daze]

OK, as far as changing the HWT, it's pretty straight forward. Raising the tank... The only concern I can think of is whether or not it would cause any problems since the bottom of the tank isn't fully supported. I may be overthinking that, but if it was me I'd shy away from doing that. Besides, typically the heat exchanger goes south before anything else.

You can barb the two HWT hoses together, or remove the fittings from the circ pump and the top of the block and screw in plugs. A garboard drain plug would work.

Flushing - sure. You can install a T and a gate valve (don't forget to open it again!) into the intake hose (pre-pump). Then a garden hose fitting to the T. There are also kits available that you can find pretty easily on the internet. Merc makes one, too. There are also kits designed to be used without running the engine.

 

[smittyasc3]

Thanks. I put it in this weekend. All is working fine. I did however make a strap to hold the heater down because it was a pain in the arse to get to the rear hold down with the fuel lines in the way. Pays to have a sheet metal shop at work!

 

[Lazy Daze]

Good - glad you got it done. And, I'm sure that shop has come in handy on more than one occasion!

Fuel lines in the way? Where do yours run? Mine run directly from the gas tank and along the starboard stinger to the fuel/water separator. My HWT is on the port side of the gas tank.