Replacing manifolds/riser - sealant needed?

[jellyfish]

I'm about to replace manifolds/3" spacers/elbows and I noticed that in some manuals call for Loctite 510 on the gasket between manifold to spacer to elbow depending on the year, but no year is specified.. This stuff is $60 a tube!! anything else I can use??? or not use?

Also the gasket needed is the one with the 2 small pin size holes with the adjacent sides opened, believe its called restricter gasket?? I will find out when I take it apart but I would like to have the gasket before I start the job.

My engine is a 2001 5.0L EFI raw water cooled..

Feedback welcome...

 

[FYN409]

I just got done replacing mine a few weeks ago. I read on the forums that a lot of people use some type of sealant. So I set out to find some and was unable to locate any in my area. I talked with 2 different Mercuiser dealers and they (their mechanics) said to put the riser/elbow gaskets on dry. They said that this is Mercuisers recommendations as well. I put mine on dry and so far so good. They recommended that I re-torque them after about 10 hrs.

This is for the OEM gaskets, not aftermarket.

-Ryan

 

[MLauman]

Yes, lots of different opinions on this so I sorta took a combined approach. I apply a VERY thin layer of Permatex Black (about $5) to the gaskets. I've done this several times and never had a problem.

 

[fc3]

RTV is exactly the wrong thing to use on the joints between manifolds, risers, and elbows. Dry is best, but if you feel the need to use something, Mercury's Perfect Seal would probably be the best.

 

[lovestocruise]

Fc3 is correct. Dry is the way to go. They tell you not to lubricate when installing.

 

[tginz]

When I converted to freshwater cooling, I had to disassemble my elbows and risers. I am the original owner so I know no one touched this engine but me....I asked what the brown soft goop was bleeding from around the original gaskets. My Merc mechanic told me Perfect Seal from the factory. After scraping it off with a finger nail, it was definitely Perfect Seal. When I re-assembled, I placed a thin coat of Perfect Seal on top and bottom of each gasket. Dipped the bolts in PS too. Been "Perfectly Sealed" for two years - 100 hours.

The Merc Manual clearly states Bold print - Do not use RTV!

tginz

 

[jellyfish]

The Merc Manual clearly states Bold print - Do not use RTV!

tginz[/QUOTE]


What is or what does RTV stand for???

 

[mvoellinger]

When I converted to freshwater cooling, I had to disassemble my elbows and risers. I am the original owner so I know no one touched this engine but me....I asked what the brown soft goop was bleeding from around the original gaskets. My Merc mechanic told me Perfect Seal from the factory. After scraping it off with a finger nail, it was definitely Perfect Seal. When I re-assembled, I placed a thin coat of Perfect Seal on top and bottom of each gasket. Dipped the bolts in PS too. Been "Perfectly Sealed" for two years - 100 hours.

The Merc Manual clearly states Bold print - Do not use RTV!

tginz

Mine came from the factory with perfect seal as well, so I did a light layer of it when I reinstalled the new elbow gasket.

 

[jellyfish]

Can you or should you or should you not also use Perfect seal between the manifold and engine block??

Alex

 

[fc3]

RTV - room temperature vulcanizing. All rubbery sealants that start liquid and solidify. Best examples are silicone, 3M 4200 and 5200 etc.

Perfect seal is ok because it does not cure. The newer gaskets do not require perfect seal, but the older ones work better with it.

Best regards,
Frank

 

[jellyfish]

thanks to all for the help..

Just one more questions...

Can you or should you or should you not also use Perfect seal between the manifold and engine block??

Alex