replacing bimini top frame.....

[CliffA]

i am thinking about replacing my bimini top frame....the aluminum poles have corroded (white spots) and the plastic fittings have sun faded over time.....it still works fine but it is not very attractive....of course i will measure the current frame to insure i get the correct replacement frame but i started thinking about my camper canvas.....my camper canvas is EXTREMELY hard to install....so hard to install that i just don't use it....the windows pull so tight when installed i cannot get all of the zippers closed and the rubber strips on the bottom of the windows want to slip out of the aluminum window channels.....if i were to make the new bimini frame slightly shorter than the current frame would that make the camper canvas easier to install?.....

thanks for any input.....

cliff

 

[sdarc]

Cliff, does your bimini frame have 2 locations for height per chance? Plus I have a frame off my '94 250EC. You're welcome to it if you want to try to see if it would work for you.

 

[CliffA]

Cliff, does your bimini frame have 2 locations for height per chance? Plus I have a frame off my '94 250EC. You're welcome to it if you want to try to see if it would work for you.

the only adjustment on my top now is on the rear support pole...there is a two position adjustment on this pole only....i have tried to move the adjuster to the lowest height but the windows are still very tight.....did the 250EC have a 8.5' beam?......if so i may take you up on the offer and experiment with that top before i buy a new one....

thanks...
cliff

 

[Lazy Daze]

Some thoughts, but first, just to be sure you're not missing a step...

-- Extend the rear legs (button).
-- Start the zippers a little bit and push in as much of the "gasket" as you can
-- Retract the rear legs (pull down on the bimini frame to help - it will be a rather firm pull that's needed) and finish the gasket and then the zippers

A little vinyl conditioner on the rubber gasket makes things easier; also helps to "slide/reposition" the windows left/right. Be sure the bottom lip of the gasket is getting fully into the channel. Insert the top edge first, then push/snap the lower with your thumb.

If you still need to, have a canvas shop sew you some zipper extenders in matching sunbrella - basically a 1" strip of canvas with two zippers on it. One zipper to go to the bimini top and the other to go to the enclosures.

If the aluminum tubes are not pitted, then can be buffed with something like Flitz to bring them back to like-new.

 

[CliffA]

Some thoughts, but first, just to be sure you're not missing a step...

-- Extend the rear legs (button).
-- Start the zippers a little bit and push in as much of the "gasket" as you can
-- Retract the rear legs and finish the gasket and then the zippers

A little vinyl conditioner on the rubber gasket makes things easier. Be sure the bottom lip of the gasket is getting fully into the channel.

If you still need to, have a canvas shop sew you some zipper extenders in matching sunbrella - basically a 1" strip of canvas with two zippers on it. One zipper to go to the bimini top and the other to go to the enclosures.

If the aluminum tubes are not pitted, then can be buffed with something like Flitz to bring them back to like-new.

thanks Dennis....i did try all these steps before.....you were kind enough to give me the same advise a couple years ago when i was struggling with installing the canvas.....i have actually seen a vendor on 'the net' selling the 'zipper extenders' that you are speaking about and have thought about trying those out....i have tried cleaning the poles with 'Mothers Mag and Wheel Polish' but it did not help much....maybe the 'Flitz' would work better....i have even thought about having the poles powder coated and just replace the plastic fittings but not sure if this would be less expensive than just replacing the frame.....the poles are not pitted, just discolored from corrosion....

cliff

 

[Lazy Daze]

When you were buffing it.... just by hand or do you have an attachment for a drill? I know exactly what you mean about the white spots. There's no easy way to get them back to nice-looking - it's all about elbow grease... but at power attachment can make it a heck of a lot easier.

There's others that swear by the Woody Wax stuff. I have the kit to use on the hardtop tubes on an old Grady that I just bought. It looks promising, but I haven't used the product, yet.

Check out the bimini fittings that Taco Metals offers.

 

[sdarc]

the only adjustment on my top now is on the rear support pole...there is a two position adjustment on this pole only....i have tried to move the adjuster to the lowest height but the windows are still very tight.....did the 250EC have a 8.5' beam?......if so i may take you up on the offer and experiment with that top before i buy a new one....

thanks...
cliff

8'6"beam. can't hurt to try.

 

[lawndoctor]

FWIW - I replaced the factory aluminum bimini frame with stainless. I drew an exact tracing of the three individual pieces and had a canvas shop bend exact copies out of stainless tubing. While i was at it, I used the newer-style Taco ball-and-socket fittings on the frame and replaced the old deck fittings with them. It was a big improvement.

 

[CliffA]

When you were buffing it.... just by hand or do you have an attachment for a drill? I know exactly what you mean about the white spots. There's no easy way to get them back to nice-looking - it's all about elbow grease... but at power attachment can make it a heck of a lot easier.

There's others that swear by the Woody Wax stuff. I have the kit to use on the hardtop tubes on an old Grady that I just bought. It looks promising, but I haven't used the product, yet.

Check out the bimini fittings that Taco Metals offers.

i was just trying by hand....i do have a buffing pad for the drill i can try....i even thought about painting them....some web sites say the 'Rustoleum Professional' spray enamel paint works very well on metals and is very durable.....

i looked at the bimini fittings by Taco Metals....very nice.....is it OK to use stainless steel fittings on an aluminum support pole?

cliff

 

[CliffA]

8'6"beam. can't hurt to try.

let me stew on it for a while.....i don't really have a game plan in place right now....just thinking out loud for now....i'll keep your generous offer in mind....

btw, we splased the boat in Norman this past WE......my offer stands to take you for a cruise sometime if you want.....

cliff

 

[CliffA]

FWIW - I replaced the factory aluminum bimini frame with stainless. I drew an exact tracing of the three individual pieces and had a canvas shop bend exact copies out of stainless tubing. While i was at it, I used the newer-style Taco ball-and-socket fittings on the frame and replaced the old deck fittings with them. It was a big improvement.

thanks...going to stainless may be the best option if i decide to replace the frame and fittings....

cliff

 

[Lazy Daze]

i was just trying by hand....i do have a buffing pad for the drill i can try....i even thought about painting them....some web sites say the 'Rustoleum Professional' spray enamel paint works very well on metals and is very durable.....

i looked at the bimini fittings by Taco Metals....very nice.....is it OK to use stainless steel fittings on an aluminum support pole?

cliff

Probably best to take the bimini off when you use the power buffer - it might get messy. Yes, SS & Al are fine in this application. Painting/powder sounds like an interesting option, but I would be worried that it would lead to more upkeep in the future.

 

[sdarc]

I will take you up on that. Did you put in at Sherill's Ford past Slanting Bridge?. I wonder if the "white" isn't anodizing wearing off?

 

[CliffA]

I will take you up on that. Did you put in at Sherill's Ford past Slanting Bridge?. I wonder if the "white" isn't anodizing wearing off?

will send PM......