replacement speakers for 340 Sundancer

T

Taxman1040

New Member
Nov 10, 2014
7
southeast Florida
Boat Info
Sundance 340, 2007
Engines
8.1 V-drives
I am sure this questions has been ask before, but here it goes. What 6.5 cockpit speakers will fit the already cut holes for a the 340 sundancer, Panasonic coaxial, marine speaker 160w, EASA16PX86A1. Or would what is the recommended speaker without changing the amp, Thanks for your help.
 
JBL 6.5s are a direct fit for the hole. They would be an upgrade in sound with your existing amplifier but would really benefit from an amplifier upgrade. Look at the JBL M600/6 amp.
 
JimT said:
JBL 6.5s are a direct fit for the hole. They would be an upgrade in sound with your existing amplifier but would really benefit from an amplifier upgrade. Look at the JBL M600/6 amp.
Click to expand...

+ 1. These will be a great upgrade for your boat. Upgrade the sub woofer and amp as well.

Edit: as posted below I assumed a typo in JIMT's reply; JL Audio is the brand to go with... Not JBL
 
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First off, I hope the previous two suggestions actually meant JL Audio and not the typed JBL. I wouldnt suggest any JBL speakers. Yes, I would recommend the JL MX650

No amp change needed, providing all the speakers are driven by an external amp. Cant make an amp upgrade suggestion without knowing what the current amp is, so ill leave that for later. I would only look into an amp upgrade if there are speakers on the head-unit or the current amp has very simple front end that does not allow for proper tuning, or if you wanted to step up into a Hi-performance speaker like the Wet Sounds 650 series or the JL M650 and really want to drive them hard. At that point, you also want to revisit the sub setup. Nothing worse than outpacing the bass with the full-range speakers.

Other worthwhile speakers: Wet Sounds 65i series, Kicker KM654 and Rockford M262. Just note, the M262 requires a 5.2" hole, the Kicker calls for a 5.125 but will fit a 5.0" and the 65i is 5.0. All of these would be a noticeable improvement in sound quality, providing the amp allows for optimal tuning.
 
Taxman1040 said:
I am sure this questions has been ask before, but here it goes. What 6.5 cockpit speakers will fit the already cut holes for a the 340 sundancer, Panasonic coaxial, marine speaker 160w, EASA16PX86A1. Or would what is the recommended speaker without changing the amp, Thanks for your help.
Click to expand...
I replaced all mine with Fusions and never looked back. They are a little tight depth wise in the arch, but do fit and sound awesome.
 
I went with JL Audio 7.7" in the radar arch and they sound awesome, huge upgrade. The bass I get out of these speakers is so good I skipped installing a subwoofer. It was really easy to enlarge the opening with a simple jig saw with a fine downcut blade. I went with JL Audio 6.5" for the cockpit/helm speakers and that was a factory fit, plug and play. I've been very impressed with JL's.
 
I used the Polk Audio DB651 speakers....they are a direct fit.....not very expensive and have a great sound....you can see one of them in this pic...

cliff
 
Dropping in wet sounds 65i in my factory set up 340. I know the 4 6.5” are on a single MAA120-2 amp, and the cabin is the same set up. (Switch’s by the door to select either or both Lessing)

My question is how well the factory amp (MAA120-2) can power 4 decent 6.5” speakers or will I need to replace cockpit amp with a new mini amp?.

Also anyone know how to access the factory cabin speakers? When I replace the cockpits with wet sounds, if not Hard would take what’s there (aftermarket Ken woods that suck... but are WAY better then factory cabin speakers) and pop them in the cabin locations.
 
I doubt the stock amps would be sufficient to power the new speakers....they are very small amps....something like 20 watts RMS each.....I have not replaced the cabin speakers but I think the grille just pulls straight off to access the mounting screws....it would not hurt anything to try the stock amps to see how they perform....

cliff
 
Yes my plan to to try stick amp and see free to try. If not there are some nice 4 channel mini amps out now that will push them good.

Anyone know how much clearence there is in a 99-02 arch? Speakers are 2.6” deep the crappy Ken woods in there now are 2.25 and fit with out spacers.
 
don't know the exact depth of the arch where the speakers are mounted but it is not real deep.....might need spacers for the new speakers....I installed Polk Audio DB651 speakers but they have a shallow mounting depth at under 2" and had no issues....

cliff
 
Well looking at fusions online 3.1 depth if wyano got them in with out spacers I will be good. But who knows what fusions he installed.
 
Mittens said:
Well looking at fusions online 3.1 depth if wyano got them in with out spacers I will be good. But who knows what fusions he installed.
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I did mine over 5 years ago and do not remember the model. All i know was they were the right diameter and JUST fit depth wise. I had to move the VHF cable on the starboard side and THINK I had to replace one of the nuts on the antenna mount for clearance. I'm a bit foggy as I suffer from CRS.
Sorry I couldn't be more help.
 
The amp will drive the new speakers just the same as it did the old ones. The hard part is distinguishing the difference between the old speakers SQ and the amp SQ. You will certainly hear a difference between the old speakers and new speakers, but is what you are hearing limited to what the amp can do? Thats the question.

If the amp does not have selectable cross-overs, id consider replacing it. I would not limit myself to a mini or micro unless space is an issue. however, the cabling for the existing amp may need upgrading with any new amp.
 
I know this thread is a bit old, but figured I would revive it with a question.

I would like to stream music from my phone or stream Pandora from my phone and have it play through the radio/speakers. Is there a Bluetooth adapter that I can add to the original Clarion unit.
 
I wanted to update my quest to add Bluetooth. I ended up spending a bit more (well, a lot more) money and doing a bit more work than originaly planned. But I’m very happy with the outcome. Ultimately, I installed a Fusion RA70N and JL Audio cockpit speakers.

Initially, I looked at purchasing a new Bluetooth radio, as it wasn’t that much more than adding a Bluetooth module to the existing radio. The Clarion M508 was $120 (Amazon Prime), but when I realized it didn’t have separate volume zone control, which I really wanted to have, I stepped up to the Clarion M608 ($250 Amazon Prime), because it had both Bluetooth and volume zone control. I ended returning the M608 for a Fusion RA70N because I found the Clarion’s functionality was not as easy to utilize as the Fusion’s.

The Clarion’s Bluetooth was slow to respond to commands and the it wasn’t easy to use the volume zone controls. I also didn’t like how the buttons seemed hard to depress. The Clarion was truly a plug and play install. The existing harness plug on the boat side plugs directly into the new Clarion M608, so you don’t need to do any wiring, it even fits in the stock face plate. So the install is as simple as it gets imo.

I felt the Fusion was a better solution for my needs as it seemed to be easier to access the options it offers. For example—accessing the volume-zone control on the M608 required going through steps/menus, where the Fusion you just turn the volume dial, like in a car. The Fusion’s volumedial will allow you to control 4 zones all from the one dial. The Bluetooth is almost instant, and when my phone is playing pandora, I can control the app from the head unit or from my phone. The clarion would not skip songs from the head unit, everything needed to be done from my phone. Not that this was a major issue, but it’s convenient to be able to do things from either end. The fusion link app, also acts as a remote controller. It let’s you do a multitude of things from the app. since it’s NEMA capable it can be controlled from a MFD too.

The JL audio speakers sound great. I installed the MX770’s at the helm (used a dremil to increase the diameter of the hole) and MX650’s in the arch. I would have used the 7’s in the arch too, but I think they are too deep to fit w/o a spacer. I am currently using the stock amps to power the speakers and they seem to preform well. I’m sure adding a sub would be even more of an improvement, but it sounds great as it is, and the sub would need another amp to power it, so I had to stop the spending at some point.

All-in, the Fusion was very easy to install. I got a piece of finished wood from HD to use as the faceplate and all the wires coming off the boat are color coded with standard colors; they matched up to the fusion. Also worth noting the Fusion helm remote is NEMA too, so it can be used to display data as well.

I’m extremely pleased with the setup and appreciate the simplicity of the Fusion. The only thing I’d do differently is put the JL-7’s in the arch too, but I didn’t want to use spacers.
 
suss1173 said:
I wanted to update my quest to add Bluetooth. I ended up spending a bit more (well, a lot more) money and doing a bit more work than originaly planned. But I’m very happy with the outcome. Ultimately, I installed a Fusion RA70N and JL Audio cockpit speakers.

Initially, I looked at purchasing a new Bluetooth radio, as it wasn’t that much more than adding a Bluetooth module to the existing radio. The Clarion M508 was $120 (Amazon Prime), but when I realized it didn’t have separate volume zone control, which I really wanted to have, I stepped up to the Clarion M608 ($250 Amazon Prime), because it had both Bluetooth and volume zone control. I ended returning the M608 for a Fusion RA70N because I found the Clarion’s functionality was not as easy to utilize as the Fusion’s.

The Clarion’s Bluetooth was slow to respond to commands and the it wasn’t easy to use the volume zone controls. I also didn’t like how the buttons seemed hard to depress. The Clarion was truly a plug and play install. The existing harness plug on the boat side plugs directly into the new Clarion M608, so you don’t need to do any wiring, it even fits in the stock face plate. So the install is as simple as it gets imo.

I felt the Fusion was a better solution for my needs as it seemed to be easier to access the options it offers. For example—accessing the volume-zone control on the M608 required going through steps/menus, where the Fusion you just turn the volume dial, like in a car. The Fusion’s volumedial will allow you to control 4 zones all from the one dial. The Bluetooth is almost instant, and when my phone is playing pandora, I can control the app from the head unit or from my phone. The clarion would not skip songs from the head unit, everything needed to be done from my phone. Not that this was a major issue, but it’s convenient to be able to do things from either end. The fusion link app, also acts as a remote controller. It let’s you do a multitude of things from the app. since it’s NEMA capable it can be controlled from a MFD too.

The JL audio speakers sound great. I installed the MX770’s at the helm (used a dremil to increase the diameter of the hole) and MX650’s in the arch. I would have used the 7’s in the arch too, but I think they are too deep to fit w/o a spacer. I am currently using the stock amps to power the speakers and they seem to preform well. I’m sure adding a sub would be even more of an improvement, but it sounds great as it is, and the sub would need another amp to power it, so I had to stop the spending at some point.

All-in, the Fusion was very easy to install. I got a piece of finished wood from HD to use as the faceplate and all the wires coming off the boat are color coded with standard colors; they matched up to the fusion. Also worth noting the Fusion helm remote is NEMA too, so it can be used to display data as well.

I’m extremely pleased with the setup and appreciate the simplicity of the Fusion. The only thing I’d do differently is put the JL-7’s in the arch too, but I didn’t want to use spacers.
Click to expand...
Pictures or it didn't happen
 
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