Remove oxidation on hull sides

[Nauti1]

Does anyone know how to permanently remove the oxidation on the burgundy sides? I've been using shurhold buff magic and their polish with good results but it only lasts for a month with it in the water. I love the boat but my arms are getting tired.

 

[Jimmy Buoy]

You're going to get more aggressive to remove the oxidation. Try Maguiars 67 first using a good rotary buffer and a wool pad. It's got abrasives that may cut through the oxidation, but those abrasive particles break down and only polish is left. I like it because it will remove most oxidation but it's really hard to actually burn through the gelcoat to the glass so it's safe.

If that doesn't work you're looking at possibly water sanding which scares me. You can really do a number on your boat if not done properly. Since I've never had to go that far, hopefully someone with experience will let you know the proper procedure before attempting. Hopefully the 67 will do the trick!

Good Luck

 

[CougarCruiser]

wet sanding. If you aren't comfortable with the risk, find someone to help you with it. Just get a very fine wet sand and work the surface evenly.

 

[mygirl]

I would try some buff magic. I had great results with it thus far. If oxidation is still too tuff for buf magic I would mix buff magic with some compound. Kinda making your own mix. The combination of finesse with aggressive cutting of compound gave me the sweet spot of what u may be looking for. Good luck!

 

[kjingram821]

You're going to have to wet sand that. I've been doing my 1993 200BR, same color. I go 1500 grit to 2000 grit to compound with a rotary buffer, then polish and wax. It's a long job that will make your arms ache, but it's worth it.


Here's a couple before and after side by sides:

 

[ZZ13]

Personally, I would try Presta Super-cut with a rotary before I resorted to wet sanding.

 

[BigBoysToys]

Wet sand with a fine paper then buff magic then polish.
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[390x]

Presta super cut with a rotary and a wool pad. End of story. Everything else (short of wet-sanding) is a waste of time.

 

[peterkvs]

From the looks of the oxidation you are going to have to wet sand off the oxide layer before you can get a shine that will last. You need to see how aggressive you need to get. Wet sand a foot square spot with 800 and a foot square spot next to the first one with 1000. Then sand the spot you did with 800 with 1000. (this will tell you if 1000 is going to get the oxidation off or if you are going to have to be more aggressive. You may have to go to 600, but start with 1000 first and see how it does.) ONLY sand left and right or up and down. Don't sand in a circular pattern. Then use a rotary buffer with a wool bonnet and use Wizards Turbo Cut or Presta Cut and buff the spots and see what your results are. I had a burgundy hull and after going with 600, 800, 1000 and turbo cut it looked better than new and you could read a newspaper in the reflection. There is no reason to use sandpaper finer than 1000 as both those compounds will take out the 1000 grit scratches. Once you get the oxidation off and the surface cut and buffed, wax with two or three coats of wax. I like 3M Ultra Performance Paste Wax. Here are before and after pictures of my burgundy hull.
Before

After

The results are amazing when you take the time and do it right.

Good Luck,

Pete

 

[Nauti1]

Thanks a lot for the info guys. I'am going to try the presta cut on a wool pad and see what happens. I'll get some 800 and 1000 grit paper if that doesn't do the trick.
This is what it looked like after buff magic on the shurhold buffer.

 

[suss1173]

Can anyone comment on difference between 3m compound and presta.

I just got a P-27 and it's not badly oxidized, but it's a bit chalky.

 

[390x]

Can anyone comment on difference between 3m compound and priests.

I just got a P-27 and it's not badly oxidized, but it's a bit chalky.

If you mean Presta, the Presta is hands-down better than the 3m. I've used them all.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Buff Magic is more of a "filler" than anything else. Once you understand what oxidation really is, things start to make more sense and you understand why the guys above are recommending, at a minimum, an aggressive compound or wet sanding.

Imagine really flat, calm water - when it's "like glass". Now add a little wind. Oxidation is the UV degradation of the gelcoat. It "eats" away at the gelcoat and creates little nooks and crannies - high spots and low spots. It's sort of like that water example - if you sand away what the wind did, you would be back to glass. That's exactly what you need to do with the gelcoat - sand away the high spots to get back to a totally flat surface. The Buff Magic doesn't really do much sanding - what it did for you was to fill in the low spots which made everything look better since it temporarily created a flat surface. But as you found out, it didn't last because the "magic" wore away out of those low spots pretty quickly, getting back to the original high/low spots.

Once you get it back to looking nice, keep on your waxing. Red, from years past, always seemed to be more prone to oxidizing than the other colors. Collinite paste Fleetwax is my go-to wax.

 

[suss1173]

If you mean Presta, the Presta is hands-down better than the 3m. I've used them all.

I think the iPhone autocorrect took over on that one. Yes, I meant Presta. Thanks for the reply.

Lazy Daze, thank you for the explaination, it is helpfull.

 

[Nauti1]

Thanks a lot guys. I plan on wet sanding and compound when I lay it up in about 6 weeks. Thanks again guys.


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[ZZ13]

Buff Magic is more of a "filler" than anything else. Once you understand what oxidation really is, things start to make more sense and you understand why the guys above are recommending, at a minimum, an aggressive compound or wet sanding.

Imagine really flat, calm water - when it's "like glass". Now add a little wind. Oxidation is the UV degradation of the gelcoat. It "eats" away at the gelcoat and creates little nooks and crannies - high spots and low spots. It's sort of like that water example - if you sand away what the wind did, you would be back to glass. That's exactly what you need to do with the gelcoat - sand away the high spots to get back to a totally flat surface. The Buff Magic doesn't really do much sanding - what it did for you was to fill in the low spots which made everything look better since it temporarily created a flat surface. But as you found out, it didn't last because the "magic" wore away out of those low spots pretty quickly, getting back to the original high/low spots.

Once you get it back to looking nice, keep on your waxing. Red, from years past, always seemed to be more prone to oxidizing than the other colors. Collinite paste Fleetwax is my go-to wax.

Dennis, why does the Buff Magic product say its a diminishing abrasive and "has no fillers"?

 

[Lazy Daze]

Dennis, why does the Buff Magic product say its a diminishing abrasive and "has no fillers"?

I don't know - I've never looked that closely at the label. But I can tell you that I've used it to the point where things shine well (I wouldn't call myself a "professional" detailer, but I'm pretty confident in my buffer skills), then I've wiped the hull sides down with a light swipe of acetone afterwords and it noticeably dulled the shine. If I do that with a more traditional compound (I've tried many), the shine still stays. Maybe I'm wrong, but that (to me) meant that the acetone was removing something that was filling in low spots. On a very, very lightly oxidized surface it's fine. But anything more than that and something more aggressive is needed.

 

[ZZ13]

I don't know - I've never looked that closely at the label. But I can tell you that I've used it to the point where things shine well (I wouldn't call myself a "professional" detailer, but I'm pretty confident in my buffer skills), then I've wiped the hull sides down with a light swipe of acetone afterwords and it noticeably dulled the shine. If I do that with a more traditional compound (I've tried many), the shine still stays. Maybe I'm wrong, but that (to me) meant that the acetone was removing something that was filling in low spots. On a very, very lightly oxidized surface it's fine. But anything more than that and something more aggressive is needed.

Thanks. Was just curious about the wording. I didn't doubt your explanation. I tried it and found it ineffective on my previous blue gelcoat boat. It seems good on metal, though. That's mostly where I use it now. Switched to Presta Ultra Cutting Creme for my light duty oxidation work.

 

[Lazy Daze]

Thanks. Was just curious about the wording. I didn't doubt your explanation. I tried it and found it ineffective on my previous blue gelcoat boat. It seems good on metal, though. That's mostly where I use it now. Switched to Presta Ultra Cutting Creme for my light duty oxidation work.

It was a good question. I probably would've wondered the same thing.

 

[Nauti1]

Well I used 1200 grit wet sand, Presta ultra cutting creme, colenite 885 paste wax. Iam very happy with the results. Thanks everyone for their suggestions.

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