Removal of Lofrans Marlin low profile windlass

[Gunn]

Over the past two seasons my Lofrans Marlin low profile windlass has been giving me trouble. I always receive +12V to the windlass motor terminals using the helm switches or the foot switches. And all I usually get back is a very audible "click". After speaking with Imtra via email, we believe the brushes in the motor are going bad. Either that, or I will return the motor to Imtra for them to repair it. A good whack of a hammer will get it going again for a brief period. That period seems to be getting shorter and shorter. These are all symptoms of worn brushes.

So, I need to remove it. What is the best way? It looks like either I can loosen and remove the two screws that hold the electric motor to the gearbox to free the motor. Sounds easy enough (notice I said "sounds"). Or, I can remove the nuts in the locker (four, I think) from the studs coming from above the deck and separate the gearbox/motor assembly from the portion above the deck. Which way should I go?

The reason I ask is because I'm sure re-installation is going to be the real problem. I can only get one arm into the anchor locker. I can get my head in there too. But I can't get both in at the same time. So I have a feeling trying to hold the motor in place while I try to thread on a screw or nut, all the while looking into a mirror to see will be quit the chore!

Thanks,

Tom

 

[Henry Boyd]

Tom,

When I took mine out to test it I removed the entire unit (motor and 90 degree gear unit). This assembly is held on with nuts to threaded studs from the deck housing. The drive shaft from the gypsie head is splined so the motor just slides off. Be careful, the little bugger is heavy. Definitely double check to make sure all wire connections are clear. Going back together is harder. I found by removing the anchor locker hatch and tying the bow hard against our dock, I could stand on the dock and work into the hatch. I think I prefer that to working on a step ladder with the boat on stands. Its not complicated, its just the motor is heavy, access is limited, so holding the motor up while trying to get the first nut on can be a challenge.

Henry

 

[Gunn]

Thanks Henry, I was hoping this topic would catch your attention. I figured that hatch had to go, or at least removing the cylinder from it to get it out of the way. I'm going to try tackling it this week; my boat is now on the lift for the season, so using your tip to bring it alongside the dock sounds like the way to go. I'll have to time the tide correctly so I can get at it somewhat comfortably.

Tom

 

[Gunn]

Looking for advice Henry!

So I have at first attempted to just remove the motor. It's held onto the gearbox under the deck by a pair of 5mm metric nuts. I was finally able to get the nuts off; one being easy, the other being a lot harder to get to.

My problem is I can't free the motor. I tapped around the base where it joins with a ball peen hammer. That got it freed somewhat and it now wiggles a bit within the slots of the motor studs in a clockwise/CCW fashion. But I can't get it to pull free from the gearbox. From my diagram, it shows there is a shaft with a keyway in here, so no reason it shouldn't just pull free...other than corrosion I guess. Henry, when you removed your motor (on the bench), was it difficult, and how did it end up coming free? Wondering if I just need to use more force or try to get something between gearbox and motor to pry on...

Now you said you removed the entire lower assembly by removing the four M8 nuts. From what I can see, it looks like two of them would be easy to remove, but two would be very, very difficult. The ones towards the the stern of the boat are in somewhat of a cavity of the deck. And the gearbox itself prevents simply using a socket and ratchet the way it comes out and over the nuts. Being in this cavity, it looks like it will be hard to get a wrench on it too! Maybe a stubby box wrench? If I can't get the motor removed, I'll have to try the four studs...any advice on how you got those two pesky nuts off?

 

[Henry Boyd]

Tom,

I think you have removed the wrong nuts. There should be four of then on the flange that that is against the fiberglass. I took the hatch cover off and did the work by feel. Thinking back I probably used a short double open end wrench with on the jaws that is at 90 degrees to the handle. Once those nuts are off the upper housing just lifts off.

Henry

 

[Gunn]

Thanks Henry. The nuts I first removed were the motor-to-gearbox mounting stud nuts. I was hoping to just remove the motor and leave the rest alone. Would make it easier to re-install too.

I guess I will tackle the entire gearbox/motor assembly and then try to remove the motor once on the bench.

 

[Gunn]

Dare I say...that was easy?!! Back already; I got the four M8 bolts off using a standard 13mm box wrench after all. Nothing to it. They all weren't very tight to begin with and once they were free, I was able to jam my fingers in there and spin it off. Only lost one nut down in the mass of rope and chain.

I must say, that motor is in terrible condition! Not what I wanted to see when a replacement is $720.00. :smt009 They may say there's not much repair to be done but to replace it...