Removable Speedmeter and Transducer

dc380

New Member
Mar 18, 2007
480
RI
Boat Info
SOLD 2002 380DA, C120, A50, ST7001, ST600R
Engines
8.1s Mercs, 7.0 Westerbeke
Has anyone ever removed the transducer and Speedmeter on your 380 o 410? The reason I ask is I think I have a slow leak. The yard mechanic wants to wait until the boats back in the water to see. (He doesn't believe they are leaking) I want to do it now, clean and put something on the threads to keep it from leaking. It looks easy enough to unscrew and pull out, but I can't find any documentation on them, or the replacement plugs.

Theres always a little water in that forward bilge, and I don't see where else it could be coming from. It's a very slow leak, when I vacuum out the water, it stays dry until the following weekend.

Dave
 
Gary's talked about pulling his plug before....and I think he's even removed the transducers a few times.....I'm sure he can help....
 
There are some rubber o-rings on the thing... those have probably gone bad or need to be cleaned. The threads keep the plug in place and are not the "seal" for water. You should only hand tighten the thing and put some safety wire on it so it doesn't vibrate off.

It's probably an Airmar unit and you might be able to get the model number on a label/tab that is on the wire where it plugs into the display at the helm.

edit: I just re read your post and I'm not convinced it's leaking. There are many other areas where water can come from and get there....
 
thanks Gary

OK, that seems to be the consensus, that the water is likely coming from somewhere else. I didn't know how difficult or what parts like O rings, I would have to replace if I pulled it out and checked it.

I didn't think that was a good idea, when the mechanic said he'll pull it (if it leaks) after I was in the water. I figure that can't be a good think, having a 1 1/4" hole in the bottom of the boat.

OK, I see if I can figure out where the water is coming from.

Dave
 
Hey DC380:

There should be a blank plug wired to the ring in the top of the transducer It will have just a flat end and "O" ring on the plug shaft about a half inch up from the bottom.
Un screw the retaining collar and slip it up on the wire leads so you can get the transducer out. Then with the blank in one hand and close at the ready, twist pull the transducer upward working it out slowly a little at a time. Once close to the end pull it and pop in the blank in one smooth swap. To help make things go smoothly next time a little silicone grease on the O ring on the blank helps. Now without leaving the spot, use that tooth brush and general cleaner you brought with you and clean up the O ring and inspect it for tears or a break. If its in good shape, add silicone grease and reverse the process. If you're confident and quick you shouldn't get more than a few cups of water in the bilge. If you bungle it the first time like everyone does, you'll be soaked head to toe. If something gets away from you slap your palm over the through hull fitting until you get your mind back on the work. Don't worry this is a little chore that should be done every few months just to keep the bits clean and working properly.

Now do the same thing for the speedo wheel. On the speedo, when you replace the paddle wheel, twist it to line the pull ring up with keel. Its a good idea to grease the threads on the through hull fitting with a little silcone as well.

If the bronze fittings are pretty well corroded, clean it all up with some "Ospho" and a wire brush followed by baking soda and water neutralizer and fresh water before you leave the work. Did I say wear eye protection, yes I did didn't I, no? Well I did now.

If you have to leave the work site for any reason then tighten down the retaining collars on the inserts.
 
If I remember correctly, my 380 DA had a flapper on it so when I pulled the plug, it really didn't have much water come out.... I think my 480 DB has a flapper on either the transducer or the paddle wheel... I forget which... The first time I pulled the plug that didn't have a flapper on (480 DB), the water came up so hard it hit me in the face and knocked me backwards on my ass... by the time I got the plug ready (I fumbled it) I had 3-4 inches of water in the bilge... amazing the pressure 4 feet under water... It made me realize that a 2-3 inch hole 3 feet below the water line could sink the boat.

It sorta gave me that feeling when I cracked a keel/hull joint in a sailboat hitting a sandbar and had to beach it to keep it from sinking (many years ago)... I think I need to find a different hobby...
 
Last edited:
OK, thanks Guys

I'm going to pull the transducer and speedometer on land. I'll put silicone on the threads and clean them up. I'm sure the previous owner never pulled and cleaned them.

If I try this in the water I'll sink the boat for sure. Plus my electrical panel is within shooting distance of those holes. So if I don't sink it and it shots as high as Gary's did, it will short out the panel....

I could never explain that to my wife.

Dave
 
Just tell her you were down in the bilge pulling your plug.... and the boat sank.
 
Every now and then she'll as how the shafts can go through the bottom of the boat, be able to spin and not let water in.

I'll tell her the props sprung a leak. it's time for the next size up.
 

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