Remote Trim Switch Installation

Trucky

New Member
Jun 26, 2011
380
Boone Lake, TN
Boat Info
1999 210SD SunDeck / 2002 Ford F250 CC Lariat 4X4, slightly tweaked 7.3L
Engines
5.0 Mercruiser220hp/Alpha I
This was one of my winter projects. It's not a big deal but for an old fart like me every climb up the side of the trailer or into the boat just cuts into my lake time so I opted to put this on the transom so I can reach it from the ground.

There's something about drilling a 3/4" hole into the shiny gel coat that gave me pause. I think I measured about 6 times, checking inside and out for any disasters that were about to befall me. All in all it went well with a plug and play installation for about $66.

IMG-20120310-00001-1.jpg
 
I'll be installing one myself this upcoming week. The engine is currently out to replace the coupler and manifolds so it's a perfect time to get into the bilge and install this.
 
i added one of those too....one of the best mods i did to my boat....cutting a hole in the gelcoat is nerve racking at first....now i've cut several holes in my boat for the mods i have done so i don't even think about it anymore...just have to be sure to seal them good....

cliff
 
Looking good, yep that 1st hole you put into the boat hurts(Grin)
 
Looking good, yep that 1st hole you put into the boat hurts(Grin)

It hurts, but what was worse... as I started to drill I could feel eyes of the CSR group here looking over my shoulder:

"You should have moved it higher"
"Are you sure that old wood bit is ok?"
"Is that the right kind of masking tape?"
"Do you really need that thing?"
 
I bought a boat brand new in 1998 and didn;t have a stereo in it. After going through placement of the head unit and speakers, masking off the areas to be drilled/cut I just couldn;t do it so I had my neighbor make the cuts. He was in the marine world and felt comfortable but I didn't have it in me to make the first hole in a brand new boat. I could do it now but still cautious.
 
After going through placement of the head unit and speakers, masking off the areas to be drilled/cut I just couldn;t do it


yea, cutiing two 6" holes in my transom for stereo speakers gave me a real 'pucker factor'....
 
Installed the same swithch a year after purchasing the Ray. Best thing I did.
 
"Do you really need that thing?" asks my wife. Needless to say, I still don't have one. Maybe this season. I added a wired stereo remote at the helm and an IPOD connector and 12V connector in the glovebox last season. The 2" hole in the console really gave me pause. It all worked out great but, boy, was I nervous.

By the way, is port or starboard better for the transom switch, and why?
 
By the way, is port or starboard better for the transom switch, and why?


it depends on which side your trim pump is located....the remote trim switch will come with a wiring pig tail which is around 3 ft long (if i recall correctly) that has a plug on the end...so you would want to mount the remote trim switch as close to the trim pump as possible so that the wiring pigtail can reach the pump wiring....then it is just as simple as 'plug and play' to connect the remote switch plug to the pump wiring....

cliff
 
The switch kit I got had about 6' of pigtail. I mounted mine on the side opposite to the pump, starboard side. I did this because, being right handed, I wanted to be facing the drive as I make adjustments.
 
I was able to get the boat home and get mine installed today.
Before
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After
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Here's a video I made while I did this today.
[video=youtube;pQAiuvimMKQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQAiuvimMKQ&feature=youtube_gdata[/video]
 
Last edited:
I just added the video that I made today that I promised
 
nice job.....looks good......i am sure you will find it VERY useful as i do....


cliff
 
Great pictures as always Todd. Nice video too.

I may have missed this information earlier in the post but how about the electrical side of this. Is it plug and play? What is the part number for the switch ?
 
The part number I used was 87-815200A 1. It comes with a Y connector so you unplug the plug from the trim pump, plug in the new switch plug, then plug the original plug into the other half of the Y. I found mine for $44 online. I learned there are two basic models... a round plug, more common, and an oval plug, usually found on older drives. Mine was round for my 99 model.
 
Great pictures as always Todd. Nice video too.

I may have missed this information earlier in the post but how about the electrical side of this. Is it plug and play? What is the part number for the switch ?
Thanks.
The part number I used was 87-815200A 1. It comes with a Y connector so you unplug the plug from the trim pump, plug in the new switch plug, then plug the original plug into the other half of the Y. I found mine for $44 online. I learned there are two basic models... a round plug, more common, and an oval plug, usually found on older drives. Mine was round for my 99 model.

That's correct.
Thanks. Merc changed the wiring from the old switch I ordered to the newer pump. I had a new pump installed with the new drive the PO replaced in our purchase agreement. During that install the wires were spliced so I had to resplice the wiring. Not a big deal but if you do it the switch has an easy plug in harness that should make it a piece of cake.
Here's what I ended up doing.
5b7f7e5a.jpg
 
"Do you really need that thing?" asks my wife. Needless to say, I still don't have one. Maybe this season. I added a wired stereo remote at the helm and an IPOD connector and 12V connector in the glovebox last season. The 2" hole in the console really gave me pause. It all worked out great but, boy, was I nervous.

By the way, is port or starboard better for the transom switch, and why?

Kermit,

I think the back of your 200 is exactly the same as the back of my 205. There isn't much space to work with. I'd like to put one where the red tape is. And, since the trim pump is on the starboard side, I'd agree with the guys that noted its a more direct route.

Todd,

Great video. Thanks.

DSC_0840e.jpg
 

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