Remote Oil Filter Frustrations

b_arrington said:
Is this different for gas vs Diesel engines?
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I would think it's more dependent on the engine and what the manufacturer recommends - not necessarily gas or diesel. I also always warm an engine up before changing the oil so there's a good supply of oil everywhere. If I had an upside down filter and it was easy enough to pre-fill it, I would do it since it definitely can't hurt.

I let the filter finish draining into an old oil catch pan overnight. Then it goes into the regular trash. If there's a local option to drop it off somewhere, like oil, I'm not aware of it.
 
b_arrington said:
Is this different for gas vs Diesel engines?

The oil filter in my Cummins installs so the open end is up. During my captains briefing the Cummins tech was explicit that the filter MUST be filled with fresh oil - do not under any circumstances install it empty. He stated that the main bearing is right after the filter, and waiting for the filter to fill with oil while the engine cranks is extremely bad for it. Especially when the engine has sat all winter.

Second, what’s the proper way to dispose of used oil filters?
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Another factor is probably oil filter size. Those diesel filters can be massive and must take longer to fill, but at the same time diesel has higher oil pressures so who knows

it must be February in NY for me to be putting this much thought into oil changes :)
 
I would prefer to prefill my oil filters. Guess I will learn to live without it for this boat.

But at least I don’t have to dislocate my elbow to change my oil filter like on my 1989 5.7L!!
 
Moving the remote mount to a different location can have a couple of advantages- 1 being that on a twin engine setup one of the filters is usually located toward the out board side of motor, which can easily be moved to the inboard side for obvious reason. 2 if you have the inverted mount you can flip it and mount somewhere convenient.

This can be done very easy by just buying two oil hose extension hoses of the needed length. nobody says that the oil filter has to be mounted on the motor, there are other more convenient locations that will work just fine, only hassle is if motor needs to be pulled you have to remove the remote and lines with it.
 
Sublimetime said:
Moving the remote mount to a different location can have a couple of advantages- 1 being that on a twin engine setup one of the filters is usually located toward the out board side of motor, which can easily be moved to the inboard side for obvious reason. 2 if you have the inverted mount you can flip it and mount somewhere convenient.

This can be done very easy by just buying two oil hose extension hoses of the needed length. nobody says that the oil filter has to be mounted on the motor, there are other more convenient locations that will work just fine, only hassle is if motor needs to be pulled you have to remove the remote and lines with it.
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I really like the location. Since I have the 4.3’s, the engine room is fairly roomy. I can stand straight up while talking on the phone with one hand and change my filters with the other. I would just like to have them flipped over. Not worth the trouble or expense now that I know how to do it without making a mess. Thank you again CSR.
 
The remote filters on my old boat, that was equipped with 5.7’s were upside down. With the open end on the bottom.
My method was similar to Lazy’s.
Crack the filter so most of the oil drains out. But I used an oil absorbent pad wedged underneath where any residual oil might drip and quickly dumped the used filter in to a small plastic pail.
Nice clean job.
 
Since all of you are so helpful with the engine oil filters, how about tipping me on cleaning the goo from the bottom of the outdrive oil container mounted on the engine. Also a first for me. (My Gen 1 does not have this.)

What is the best way to clean it?
 
Lazy Daze said:
Oh, I love these easy questions! :)

Take the bottle off the boat to clean it. Wire connections make no difference so don't worry about that. Quickest and easiest thing I've found is Brakleen (the Autozone brand is fine). Get the non-chlorinated version so you don't mess your brain up with chlorine gas.

Here's another quick tip: http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/a-faster-way-to-drain-drive-fluid.47325/#post-793037
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CSR will not let me view the link.

So, I guess I do NOT remove the sensor threaded in the bottom? Can I just turn if over a pan then spray it out?
 
Lazy Daze said:
Oh, I love these easy questions! :)

Take the bottle off the boat to clean it. Wire connections make no difference so don't worry about that. Quickest and easiest thing I've found is Brakleen (the Autozone brand is fine). Get the non-chlorinated version so you don't mess your brain up with chlorine gas.

Here's another quick tip: http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/a-faster-way-to-drain-drive-fluid.47325/#post-793037
Click to expand...

If you like this one, I am posting another one about bonding cables you may like!
 
DWABoat said:
CSR will not let me view the link.

So, I guess I do NOT remove the sensor threaded in the bottom? Can I just turn if over a pan then spray it out?
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Correct. Just remove the plastic clamp and slide the hose off.

I just tried the link - it works for me?
 
DWABoat said:
Since all of you are so helpful with the engine oil filters, how about tipping me on cleaning the goo from the bottom of the outdrive oil container mounted on the engine. Also a first for me. (My Gen 1 does not have this.)

What is the best way to clean it?
Click to expand...

Some advice on the gear lube bottle - do not take it apart! The fitting on the bottom looks like you can just unscrew it and make cleaning the bottle easier - it's not! You will play hell getting it back together and you might get frustrated and end up breaking the little plastic fitting, and although it looks like a standard fitting it is not, you will need to order that. I did this and turned an afternoon oil and gearlube change into a 2 week project! The good news is my bottle is spotless now! So just follow Lazy's advice, spray some brakecleaner in and clean out the gunk.
 
Good advice. Looks very simple to just turn it over, spray it clean, let the cleaner drip out overnight, turn it back over, fill and go do something else.

Thanks.
 
You can clean it in the boat if you want - sometimes it splatters, that's all. It dries in seconds.
 
Lazy Daze said:
You can clean it in the boat if you want - sometimes it splatters, that's all. It dries in seconds.
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Great. Thanks. Now please read my post under Electrical Stuff. Could use an opinion...
 
b_arrington said:
Second, what’s the proper way to dispose of used oil filters?
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Most auto parts stores that accept old oil accept the filters too... I like to keep them around at my house as they make great fire starters for my fire pit.
 
JVM225 said:
The remote filters on my old boat, that But I used an oil absorbent pad wedged underneath where any residual oil might drip and quickly dumped the used filter in to a small plastic pail.
Nice clean job.
Click to expand...

I do similar but I cut a hole in an absorbent pad just smaller than the filter and slide it down (its snug but goes) over the filter and it sits nicely to gobble any "minor" spillover.
 
hottoddie said:
I've seen at least 2 cases where an OEM Mercruiser oil filter failed and caused low oil pressure and put an engine into limp mode. They are just rebranded cheap Chinese filters. Napa Gold, Wix or K&N are much better quality.
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There is merit to this... here is a Youtube video regarding testing these filters... I do not know where the Mercruiser oil filter fits here but it is enough that I never buy the FRAM brand of filters.

 
Removed those mercruiser pan drain hoses and all that remote oil filter nonsense. Easy with I/Os since you should have all kinds of room. I spin those big two quart wix truck filters right on the block, gets me a little extra oil in there too
 
Shenanigans77 said:
Removed those mercruiser pan drain hoses and all that remote oil filter nonsense. Easy with I/Os since you should have all kinds of room.
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I take you have never worked on a 280D like DWA's. Try getting to, especially, the stbd engine's filter if it was still mounted on the block. Good luck - you better have arms that 3" wide and 6' long! V-drives would make it easier!
 
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