Recommendation on Cleaning, Polishing, and Waxing.

[spikeitaudi]

So I new to the waxing and polishing scene for the boat. I plan on washing it throughly then waxing it. Should I be doing anything in between. Some areas are alittle dull that need to be polished up. I have an orbiter with Pad on order. What is the process in order that I should be doing and what polisher or wax should I be using. Is there a compound I can use that does both? I am planning on doing this on the sides of the boat above the waterline. Below the waterline is bottom coated. Boat is still shiny overall just want to keep it that way.

 

[Gofirstclass]

Spike, there are a bazillion threads on here about waxing your boat. Do a search and you will find your answer....and more answers than you ever thought possible.

 

[wvsundancer]

#1 buff magic, #2 cleaner wax, #3 wax

 

[spikeitaudi]

Thanks Gofirst. I did do a search and came up with many. Thought I would just see if anybody had a quick idea like WV. Thanks WV.

 

[Gunn]

#1 buff magic, #2 cleaner wax, #3 wax

Not sure why you need a cleaner wax after buff magic? I've done: #1 Buff Magic followed by #2 Pro Polish, both made by Shurhold.

I'm thinking this year it will be #1 Buff Magic followed by #2 Meguirs Flagship wax. Wondering if I should do a "Meguirs Pure Polish" in between though...

 

[JVM225]

There are many quality compounds (to be used on really bad surfaces), polishes (for use on most surfaces), and last step products (either sealant or wax). The difference in quality between the products has shrunken quite a bit over recent years as they've all improved and "best" is really in the eyes of the beholder.
But, I would forget about the random orbital and either cancel the order, or return it.
I have two great random orbitals that I use on cars all the time. One is a PC 7424, and the other is a Flex 3401. They are great for cars, but a waste of time and energy on the boat.
Gel-coat is much tougher than the finish on your cars and a rotary polisher is the only way to go. I love my Makita 9227, but if you don't want to spend that much money I understand that some have had luck with the cheapo roatary from Harbor Freight.
I use my Makita for other things besides just my own boat so the expense is more than justified for me. I do my Uncle's boat with it, a friend's boat, and it's my go-to tool for serious paint correction on my cars.
You might not want to invest that much if the boat is all you'll do once or twice a year.

 

[hack4alivin]

DON’T use a compound on your colored hull! At the very most use a light cleaner wax. Mine boat gets a 3 coat treatment three times a year.

I will start with a cleaner/wax first, and then I use Star Brite marine polish with PTEF. This stuff is great and will really bring out the shine. After that I will apply a coat of Maguiars Flagship wax for protection.

 

[Ka1oxd]

Well, i keep putting on wax until I am happy. Sometimes it is 2 coats, sometimes more. Last year I only got 2 coats on because I was running late. This year probably more and even during the season. The first year I had it was badly oxidized. I buffed it out with at first a mixture of stuff I used before, then tried buff magic about 1/2 through the process. I then did 2 coats with the old version of Marykate wax. 1 coat of the new MayKate wax (hate it), then 2 coats of Maguiars Flagship wax. Last year was the second year and the 2 coats did fine. I also usually wax before I put it up for the winter, but this year we got the surprised Halloween snow storm and I was putting the winter cover over the boat as it was snowing.

 

[patokapirate]

I love the Meguires # 49 to remove a slight bit of oxidation. Don't lay on it too long with the orbital polisher though or you will have swirl marks.

 

[Nehalennia]

DON’T use a compound on your colored hull! .....

Why not? It works great if done correctly. I had the green hull on Nehalennia II.

The combo for light scratches that brought out a mirror shine was 3M Super Duty compound, then Meguiar's #67, back then I followed with SeaPower cleaner wax(which I really like as a touch up), but have replaced with Starbrite Polish with PTEF.

I love the Meguires # 49 to remove a slight bit of oxidation. Don't lay on it too long with the orbital polisher though or you will have swirl marks.

I found Meguiar's 67 very similar to the #49, but has a diminishing quality to it so it does the compounding then fades away into a lighter rub, yielding a great shine. Follow with polish and wax, or what I am happy with is Starbrite Polish with PTEF.
Meguiar's #67

 

[Gunn]

But, I would forget about the random orbital and either cancel the order, or return it.
I have two great random orbitals that I use on cars all the time. One is a PC 7424, and the other is a Flex 3401. They are great for cars, but a waste of time and energy on the boat.
Gel-coat is much tougher than the finish on your cars and a rotary polisher is the only way to go. I love my Makita 9227, but if you don't want to spend that much money I understand that some have had luck with the cheapo roatary from Harbor Freight.

Completely agree here. I have both the Makita rotary polisher and the Porter Cable random orbit. I was extremely satisified with the Makita and Buff Magic, but not so much with the PC and Pure Polish. When I used the Makita with Pure Polish I could see a slight difference, and I felt like it was doing a better, quicker job.

I think I too will try the Starbrite Polish with PTEF after the Buff Magic.

Tom

 

[Molson]

I found compounding coloured GEL coat was ok, as long as you're careful. The red on my boat is paint, and its getting thin, I can only lightly compound it then polish the crap out of it. I have to use a separate pad for compounding as it quickly turns red.

 

[Nehalennia]

I found compounding coloured GEL coat was ok, as long as you're careful. The red on my boat is paint, and its getting thin, I can only lightly compound it then polish the crap out of it. I have to use a separate pad for compounding as it quickly turns red.

I use separate pads for each product

 

[spikeitaudi]

Ok So I went down to the boat and washed her good. Lotta black marks and dots all over. Got it all off. I notices I have 2 spots above the rub rail where it looks like I have 2, 1 inch, sticky spots. Kinda like sticker that you tried to take off but only the top part of the sticker comes off only. So what should I use to get that off?

 

[Great lakes pirate]

Ok So I went down to the boat and washed her good. Lotta black marks and dots all over. Got it all off. I notices I have 2 spots above the rub rail where it looks like I have 2, 1 inch, sticky spots. Kinda like sticker that you tried to take off but only the top part of the sticker comes off only. So what should I use to get that off?

I use acetone to get stuff like that off. Goof off with work also.

 

[jabs]

Ok So I went down to the boat and washed her good. Lotta black marks and dots all over. Got it all off. I notices I have 2 spots above the rub rail where it looks like I have 2, 1 inch, sticky spots. Kinda like sticker that you tried to take off but only the top part of the sticker comes off only. So what should I use to get that off?

Goo gone would work great non-toxic I believe too

 

[spikeitaudi]

Thanks All Will try the Goo gone.

 

[Nehalennia]

Acetone will work, just make sure to rinse it good when done and use it sparringly.

 

[Nash]

Just finished one side of my navy blue hull this past weekend. Rear of the hull had moderate oxidation and took about 4 hours to complete. I used a circular buffer with the proper pads.

I started with 3M Heavy Duty Compound, then a coat of 3M Finesse-it and finished up with Star Bright Premium Marine Polish. I'm amazed at how well it turned out! I've never used a circular buffer before but I just took my time and only used the buffer to apply and removed by hand.

Hope to knock out other side this weekend, but only if my body allows.

 

[Morgan Jane]

On the white fiberglass areas I use 3M Color/Gloss Restorer to clear up the haze and then put on a coat or two of Collinite # 925. Makes it all look better than new. I just do it all by hand little areas at a time. I use blue painters tape to mark the area I am working on and I don't move to a new area until that area is cleaned, waxed and looks perfect. I get bored trying to do the whole boat at a time. So doing little areas give me small successes along the way. Do two or three areas, drink a beer. Do two or three more areas, then drink two beers etc.....get the picture?

I let the Marina deal with the Blue once a year. Not sure what they do, but it always looks like new. I rarely get streaks on the blue and if I do, I just dip a long brush in the water and wash the hull then rinse it with fresh water. Looks great.

I think Frank's comment about never waxing over cloudy areas is spot on. The 3M color restorer really gets the Haze out and your really don't have to push real hard. Just keep wiping it until you feel no grit. I used to press real hard but I finally realized that the cleaner will do the job for you if you just keep wiping until you don't feel any grit. then I just apply the Colinite by just getting everything Wet with the wax and let it slightly dry. then just buff it until all is dry and shiny.