Rebuilding rear padded ski and whatever else storage cover. 1982 210 Cuddy.

kybishop

Member
Jul 14, 2005
282
central Kentucky
Boat Info
1976 SRV195
1982 SRV210 CC
1978 SRV240 Weekender
1982 SRV260 DA
Engines
195-MCM233 Merc I
210-MCM228 Merc I
260-MCM260 Merc I
240-MCM260 Alpha One Gen I
Well, my hinged storage lid cover has gotten soft on me. It is padded and covered (or was) in vinyl. I have removed the vinyl and padding and it is all in excellent shape. The plywood core is rotten and soft on the edges and ends. Time for new innards.

I was going to grab some marine plywood and make this thinking it would last another 30 years like the original. This storage lid goes completely across the back of the boat. You crawl across it to get in and out from the swim platform. It can see a lot of water. So I was thinking maybe something else to make the lid out of. I definitely want to put the vinyl cover and padding back on.

It may not be the original plywood but it certainly looks like it and it was meticulously maintained by the first owner.

I was wondering how Starboard or something similar would work? The lid is 78 3/8" long and 10 1/2" wide. Would rather not increase weight if I can avoid it. Wondering how strong and heavy this Starboard is. Does it bend or warp much and how is it for bearing weight on it?

Also, can you staple and attach material to it similar to what you would do with wood?

What sources does anyone like for purchasing this so I can look at sizes and such. Any other recommended materials for this application are appreciated.

The 82 brochure has the 210 Cuddy just like mine in it only a different color. You can see the back and the lid open that I am working on the link below, page 7;

http://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/electronic_brochure/company1729/1C1_27_74DERNJ8G368.pdf
 
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In my opinion... stick with wood. Keep it simple. Wood is readily available and it will be MUCH less expensive. Plastic will be at least 4x the cost. At least.

However, yes, staples will work with plastic. And I would definitely use the lite stuff if I did go the plastic route.
 
I kept the wood for durability and cost. The original lasted 33 years so I think the new will be just as durable.
IMG_0921.jpg
 
Would glassing or painting the wood help?
 
Hey brother.

It looks to be painted gray like the other wood and glass on the rest of the boat substrate. I was going to paint it with the marine paint we had if I went with wood.

The foam is in fine condition but may go with a more supportive foam padding.
 
"Would glassing or painting the wood help?"

When we started up our little boat interior refurbishing operation here....the first boat I tore apart had alot of rotten plywood I had to replace. The owner didn't like the nasty price of marine plywood and wanted me to just use standard ply from the lumber yard.

In an effort to protect it I gave it a good coating of fibreglass resin to seal and waterproof it as best I could before recovering with the foam and vinyl.

It worked out very well and I've been doing that ever since. It was the best I could come up with....and so far so good. I do that to every boat I tear apart now when I have to replace plywood.

Good luck.
 
Thanks for all the input.

Yeah, marine plywood is very expensive. Regular plywood is now for that matter. This however is the only wood I need to replace, everything else is solid. With that, I think I will go with the marine plywood and paint it with the marine paint I have.

I did fiberglass my original front anchor hatch that was starting to weather on the top and edges. Applied a matching rattle can off white and it is holding up nicely. I do agree that the resin is a good protective covering for the long haul.
 
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Marine ply or regular ply sealed with resin. Either is a good choice. But, don't use PT ply and seal it - the out gassing of the chemicals in the PT could cause a problem and make the resin delaminate.
 
Marine plywood isn't pressure treated? What so they use?

Do you have enough fabric to add more cushion? Or you just swapping out the old for new? Closed cell foam would be good I'd think for not absorbing water?
 
From what I have read the marine plywood is not pressure treated. It is a higher quality wood typically. It consists of more layers, something like 6 as compared to 3. The layers are glued together with a water proof glue which is typically better than either regular or pressure treated plywood.

The layers are free of voids which could trap moisture. The regular and pressure treated is more prone to warping due to the fewer layers, glues used and the voids in the layers.

I was thinking of swapping out old foam for new. The old is in good shape but is an open cell soft foam. A bit more support would be nice and a closed cell as you mention would absorb less water.
 
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From what I have read the marine plywood is not pressure treated. It is a higher quality wood typically. It consists of more layers, something like 6 as compared to 3. The layers are glued together with a water proof glue which is typically better than either regular or pressure treated plywood.

The layers are free of voids which could trap moisture. The regular and pressure treated is more prone to warping due to the fewer layers, glues used and the voids in the layers.

I was thinking of swapping out old for new. The old is in good shape but is an open cell soft foam. A bit more support would be nice and a closed cell as you mention would absorb less water.
marine ply is also way less initial moisture content
and if you use good marine grade vinyl moisture in the foam shouldn't be a big issue
I wrapped all of my new stuff in visqueen (sp?) and gorilla taped the seams to add a water barrier before it was covered
 

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