Rebedding a Taylormade top opening hatch on the deck

[Soul Mate II]

I have done a lot of research and I found some good posts on here - what I am not sure if how to remove the hatch. I opened the hatch and removed about 10 screws from the deck - they were drilled in vertically. I think see 4 screws that are drilled in horizontally. The 4 screws aren't going out easily. I assume these need to come out, is that correct? I then saw someone with a rubber mallet and some door stop shaped wood pieces (much much smaller than door stops) They tapped these all around to loose the hatch.

Does anyone know the best way to remove the 3 hatches on a 99 340 Dancer?

Thanks!!!

 

[tonykdr]

I just did this on my 02 340. I took the 10 or so screws out from the top of the hatch. Below the hatch inside the cabin are 4 screws that are about 1-1/2" long. I took those out and the shade came off. Then I went back on top with a Sheetrock knife and slid it around the hatch, it came right up. I didn't have any horizontal screws in mine but if they are going through the actual frame, I would assume they would have to be removed as well

 

[Soul Mate II]

Tony,

Thanks got all 3 hatches out without a problem. What are you using to reseal the hatches? Are you buying more of the black tape they use? 4200? Boat Life Sealant?

I cleaned the hatches up and am waiting for a stretch of nice weather.

 

[tonykdr]

I am using the West Systems 105 epoxy kit along with some marine grade sealant. Dale (Masterfab) on this forum has a blog (searay340restoration.blogspot.com). I am basically following his method.

 

[AllTideUp]

Must be that time for these boats. I also just re-sealed my hatches. Removed all the seals, the previous owners caulk attempt to seal the windows, the foam factory seal and cleaned all the surfaces. I used 3M 4200 to rebel all the Hatches. I made sure to get some 4200 in each of the screw holes since the didn't appear to be guarded very well by the foam or the hatch. The rubber seal is on the inside of the screws so they are exposed to the water that can run under the lip of the hatch.

All seemed to go well. I can see why Sea Ray uses the foam seal instead of a caulk as it can be messy if your not careful.

 

[Soul Mate II]

All Tide Up - I think we are at the same point (actually if your caulking you are ahead). I removed all the black tape sea ray used. There was no real caulk to speak of, which was scary. I need to use some Ascetone to get the tape glue off and I am ready to go. Did you put any epoxy on the wood prior to putting it back on? I read that is a good idea. I am going to use Boat Life and I read if you tape before it makes it a lot less mess - did you try that or no?

Tony - I looked at what Master Fab did - are you rebedding everything on the bow? Did you pull your windless spot light etc? I have everything pulled but haven't put it back together. If you are doing everything I'd like to hear if there is anything to watch out for.

Thanks guys!

 

[tonykdr]

As of today I just did the 3 hatches. Since they were dry, I'm considering doing more deck hardware. I found the hatches were on pretty good, so another season for the rest of the hardware would probably be ok. I'll let you know if I find anything that could be a problem

 

[AllTideUp]

Steve,

I did not put an epoxy on the wood before I put it back together. Lucking for me, most of the adhesive came up off the window with the foam when I pulled the foam off.

I didn't think of the tape before putting the caulk down. :smt101

Probably would have saved me some time!

J