Reasons for water ingestion, 4.3L MPI sterndrive in 2003 280DA

Gunn

Well-Known Member
TECHNICAL Contributor
Oct 4, 2006
2,335
Potomac River - MD
Boat Info
2003 280DA and 1995 Sea Ray 175
Engines
Twin 4.3l and 3.0l, all w/ AlphaI GenII drives
This has been an ongoing saga for some time and I'm about over it. I'm looking for the easy way out that doesn't break the bank, but I'm guess there isn't one.

Back in early 2019 I changed all of the manifolds, risers and elbows on my 2003 280 Sundancer as a preventative method. No other real reason. However, I cheaped out and used HGE brand components. I didn't really like how they went together, didn't like their gaskets and the way they use studs and nuts between the exhaust manifold and riser. On first startup, I had several external leaks. I replaced their gaskets with OEM mercruiser gaskets...much nicer.

I then ran the boat for a few hours that spring. I posted here back then that my starboard engine wouldn't turn over one evening. Thought it was a battery. Limped home, but then diagnosed it was hydrolocked. Drained the water, got it running just fine and it happened again. And then again. I put the boat on the trailer and it sat for over a year, in frustration. I could barely look at it.

I purchased a remanufactured long block and and swapped it out myself in the spring of 2022. I could find no smoking gun in regards to the water. No obvious cracked block, cylinder heads or gaskets anywhere. To be safe, I replaced the new HGE exhaust components with brand new OEM Mercruiser components, lesson learned. It has been running great, no issues.

But...the port engine has now started to act up. Water ingestion. It would be hard to turn over at first (while it pushed out all the water) and then very hard to start. It took 1/2 throttle to get it going. After 30 seconds, it runs great for the rest of the trip. Until next time, and repeat. Pulling spark plugs found that 3 of the 6 cylinders had water.

Once I realized it was water (again), I removed all of the HGE components on that engine and replaced it with brand-new OEM Mercruiser components thinking and hoping I could save the engine. I figured if I had to replace the engine, I would but Merc brand exhaust anyway, so why not now? Well...the engine is running better once warmed up, has more power, etc. However, it still hesitates to turn over initially (pushing water out) and then is hard to start.

Today I pulled the spark plugs (again) and water poured out of the #3 cylinder. All others looked pretty good, as did the new spark plugs. So I'm really bummed I still have water ingestion after replacing the exhaust. I'm confident I installed it correctly with gasket sealer were needed, proper torque, etc.

What else could it be? Is this block done for, just like the other? I'm just looking for any options where I might be able to fix this. But deep down, I know I'll probably be replacing this engine too, over the winter. Good times.

Thanks,

Tom
 
Pressure test the water system could be a corroded head, blown gasket. Pressure test will lead you in the right direction
 
exhaust flappers in the y-pipe, just took mine out and the were curled up in a roll and doing nothing to stop the water when throtting down
 
exhaust flappers in the y-pipe, just took mine out and the were curled up in a roll and doing nothing to stop the water when throtting down

When I had the exhaust components off, I could easily see these flappers. And they looked fine and operated fine when I pressed them and let them go. So I think they are OK.

And I have been *very* careful to slow down slowly to avoid any type of scenario where water can be backflushed up into the exhaust.

Thanks for the reply.
 
Pressure test the water system could be a corroded head, blown gasket. Pressure test will lead you in the right direction

Trying to imagine how to pressure test the water system? Do you have any step-by-step procedures I could refer to? Not sure what I would have to block off, where to put a gauge, etc.

And I guess if it's a corroded head or blown gasket, that means engine replacement anyway.
 
Plug all the hoses that enter the T stat housing take out the two npt sensors on the t-stat housing put a gauge on one in a Schrader valve on the other
 

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