Raymarine Transducer Install on 370 DA

[Ramblin' Guy]

Quick question for the hive mind tonight...

I have a 370 DA that I'd like to install a Raymarine CPT-120 thru hull transducer in for my new Axiom 7 DV. I have an existing install of a ST60 Tridata Depth/Speed that I'm thinking about keeping because the transducers are in the boat already and it's always nice to have a dedicated depth/speed gage in big print for older mariners.

I'm thinking about installing the CPT-120 between the existing transducers for the depth/speed behind the bilge pump in the attached picture. My questions are, is this location OK (too close, on keel, whatever), and is it okay to run both of these things at the same time interference-wise? I think the frequencies are different, but not sure what they are. I'm aware that I need STNG to ST1 convertors - that's no problem.

Just wondering if anyone else has done this and has any advice before I drill the big hole in the bottom of the boat.

Any advice on the subject is always appreciated.

 

[dtfeld]

That would seem to be a good location, but the hull will be rounded at that location on the outside, so getting a good flat surface might be harder or require sanding/grinding a pad there. I have a B60 transducer installed outboard of the picture above, located in the bay where the shaft is located. Seems to work just fine. If installing out there, you will need to accurately cut install the fairing block.

You might consider contacting Sea Ray, and see if they have a recommended spot or areas to avoid.

 

[ttmott]

I wouldn't install any instrument directly on the keel. First it would be more susceptible to damage and second the keel is one of the higher stressed areas on the boat especially when picking the boat up with slings and blocking. I think cutting a hole in the keel may change the structural capability.

 

[juggernaut1]

Shouldn’t be any interference if running on different frequencies.

Also is there any tilt on the Raymarine transducer as it would need to be zero degree tilt if you want to instal it in the centre of the boat to be accurate.

 

[Ramblin' Guy]

That would seem to be a good location, but the hull will be rounded at that location on the outside, so getting a good flat surface might be harder or require sanding/grinding a pad there. I have a B60 transducer installed outboard of the picture above, located in the bay where the shaft is located. Seems to work just fine. If installing out there, you will need to accurately cut install the fairing block.

You might consider contacting Sea Ray, and see if they have a recommended spot or areas to avoid.

yeah, these are the mid bilge area. I could go to stbd to the area right behind the transmission (I guess that’d be toward the bow) if there’s a clear spot there.

 

[Ramblin' Guy]

I guess another thing I could do is pull the old analog depth transducer in the pic and put the new DV transducer there. I think the diameter of the new CPT-120 is smaller than the old trans. Also, I don’t think the depth would show up on the ST60 tridata over the ST1/STNG bus but I could be wrong on that. I’m hoping someone has done this.

 

[dtfeld]

I guess another thing I could do is pull the old analog depth transducer in the pic and put the new DV transducer there. I think the diameter of the new CPT-120 is smaller than the old trans. Also, I don’t think the depth would show up on the ST60 tridata over the ST1/STNG bus but I could be wrong on that. I’m hoping someone has done this.

Depending on your MFD or sonar module, Raymarine makes Y cordsets that allow the old depth speed and temp transducers to be installed along with the new transducers. Not sure what the limits are, Raymarine tech support might need to confirm for your hardware.

 

[Maybe A Dancer]

The Raymarine RV series thru hull transducer, albeit a bit pricey has many advantages:

• available in bronze
• low profile
• available as a single, or in "pairs" for bottom detail; Chirp, Downvision, Sidevision
• available at several "offsets" to compensate for the angle of the hull, thus eliminating the need for a fairing block
• no need for an expensive sonar "box" the RV transducers connect directly to the Axiom unit

(click on thru hull pairs on this link)
RealVision 3D Sonar Transducers for Axiom Family Multifunction Displays | Marine Electronics by Raymarine

Expensive, yes, but this is a one-time purchase that with this technology will likely be the last one ever installed on a boat. (at least it is for me )

BEST !

RWS

 

[dtfeld]

The Raymarine RV series thru hull transducer, albeit a bit pricey has many advantages:

• available in bronze
• low profile
• available as a single, or in "pairs" for bottom detail; Chirp, Downvision, Sidevision
• available at several "offsets" to compensate for the angle of the hull, thus eliminating the need for a fairing block
• no need for an expensive sonar "box" the RV transducers connect directly to the Axiom unit

(click on thru hull pairs on this link)
RealVision 3D Sonar Transducers for Axiom Family Multifunction Displays | Marine Electronics by Raymarine

Expensive, yes, but this is a one-time purchase that with this technology will likely be the last one ever installed on a boat. (at least it is for me )

BEST !

RWS

This is a great albeit expensive option. Buy the 20* offset and a DIY install would be a lot easier.

I went cross-eyed reading the manual on how to measure and cut the fairing block...

 

[dtfeld]

I guess another thing I could do is pull the old analog depth transducer in the pic and put the new DV transducer there. I think the diameter of the new CPT-120 is smaller than the old trans. Also, I don’t think the depth would show up on the ST60 tridata over the ST1/STNG bus but I could be wrong on that. I’m hoping someone has done this.

Raymarine makes a SeaTalk1 to SeaTalkNG converter about $100 that would allow data to display on the ST60.

Thinking ahead, the ST60s are getting old/ starting to fail. Wired as above you could ditch the older equipment and network completely and add an i40/i50/i70 display in its place.

 

[Ramblin' Guy]

So I was at the boat today pondering this install, and I came up with the following conclusions:
New transducer should be on port side outboard of the speed sensor (less things to make noisy water)
Hull deadrise appears to be 20 degrees
I’m not sure about coring here - hope somebody knows.
Everything else looks pretty clean. What am I missing?

Oh, I went with the CPT-120 transducer with high speed fairing block.

 

[dtfeld]

That's right were somebody installed a B60 transducer in my hull. No idea if its cored in that location, but if you cut into it, you'll need to be prepared to seal it up per the instructions.

 

[Ramblin' Guy]

Well, big day for me. I drilled two holes in the spot I selected in the previous post. Throwing caution to the wind, I figured I’d deal with coring if I found it. Fortunately, there isn’t any there. What I did find is that it’s damn hard to square things on the bottom of a boat. There are no real references. The other transducer gave me a point. But I didn’t have another to make a line. The keel is there somewhat, but it’s round. Best for +\- 1/2”. Same with where the bottom meets the sides. I did my best, measured with several different methods, then prayed and drilled. I think one issue was not enough PBR on board. Anyhow, next time I spread sealant everywhere and glue this thing down. Not going to measure anymore. The die is cast. It is what it is. It looks pretty good to the naked eye. Next time I’ll take pics. Peace.

 

[Ramblin' Guy]

The deed is done. This time I took pics for future transducer installers. Went pretty well, although adhesive sealant gets everywhere and I’m still narced from acetone fumes in the bilge. I used 4200 in case I ever want to service the damn thing. Now I need to find the path to fish the cord up to the helm.

 

[Jacks-N-Rays]

I am looking at installing the same transducer for use with a Es128 Raymarine. Raymarine has told me this is the compatable model transducer. My dad had the unit and original transducer installed on his SR 390 Express prior to sale which the transducer stayed with. His original professional install with 4200 leaked afterward. Replaced it with 5200 and was good. Please let me know how it goes with 4200. Would love to use that instead of 5200. Thx!

 

[dtfeld]

Just use 5200 then. It’s a permanent install. Leaking is likely an issue with surface prep. Both are just as messy. Use a lot of paper towels and don’t reuse them. 1 swipe and into the trash.

A lot of people don’t like 5200 thinking it’s not removable. It is. Just takes a little heat to break the bond.

 

[Skybolt]

3M 4200 and 5200 are the same thing, 4200 is just fast cure. If 4200 leaked then it had to do with the way it was applied. Both are excellent products. Both are easy to remove, like Dave states. I find mineral spirits is best for clean up and can also be used in removal.

 

[ttmott]

3M 4200 and 5200 are the same thing, 4200 is just fast cure. If 4200 leaked then it had to do with the way it was applied. Both are excellent products. Both are easy to remove, like Dave states. I find mineral spirits is best for clean up and can also be used in removal.

Originally there was a 4200 and also a 4200FC (fast cure) both are/were a medium adhesive. I think now only the FC is made.
The 5200 has both the standard cure and a fast cure and has an adhesive rating greater than the 4200.
There is also a 550 and 560 in the product line.
All are polyurethane sealant/adhesives (not a caulking or fairing material). But all are different.
As far as bedding a thru-hull either the 4xxx or the 5xxx products will work just fine. They bedded my struts and also filled the deck to hull joint in 5200 which gave ample work time.

 

[Jacks-N-Rays]

The deed is done. This time I took pics for future transducer installers. Went pretty well, although adhesive sealant gets everywhere and I’m still narced from acetone fumes in the bilge. I used 4200 in case I ever want to service the damn thing. Now I need to find the path to fish the cord up to the helm.
View attachment 123156 View attachment 123157

Did you cut the fairing to th 20 degrees deadrise and what did you use if you did?

 

[Ramblin' Guy]

Did you cut the fairing to th 20 degrees deadrise and what did you use if you did?

yes, I did. Used the angle gage on a band saw to cut it. Measure twice, saw once to make sure it’s the right angle for the correct side. Use an angle gage on the hull to verify deadrise. Copious amounts of sealant and solvent to clean and ur done.