Rafting tips and Fender selection questions

This was the first weekend I rafted up with a group. I’m glad I read this thread, I will use the spring lines as described, in an “X” fashion next weekend. The day was very calm and only one knucklehead running through the cove throwing a huge wake, so I can see why the need for the spring lines! Thanks.

Matt
 
You should be using 4 lines: bow, stern and 2 spring lines. The spring lines should be taken tight, but the bow and stern lines should have some slack in them. You should always use cleat knots on cleats, and of course give the loop to the boat you are rafting with for them to hook on their cleats.

When end the spring lines are adjusted properly AND tight, they will tend to prevent the boats from moving in any direction, but will not cause a sudden jerk to the boats like tight bow and stern lines will. Once he force is off the boats, the springs will bring them back to the correct position gently.

Bryan


I typically use only one spring line to keep the boats sterns in line for platform-to-platform crossings, or through the cockpits if platforms are too far apart. On occasion, I have also used one long spring line to go from a forward cleat on my boat, to the side cleat on neighbors, to aft cleat on my boat. That prevents forward and aft shifting, as long as you have a long enough spring. I bought two long ones of a different color so they are easy to ID in the locker and grab quickly.

Do you think the separate crossed spring lines have a different effect than the one long one? I will definitely experiment for fun to see. We typically put the stern line as tight as possible without compressing the fender in between, use one spring tightened to align us as necessary, and then take the slack out of the bow line once everything is adjusted with the spring, and stern lines.

What is the benefit of slack in the bow/stern lines with crossed springs?
 
We always keep the stern tight. It makes it easier to travel from boat to boat and also holds the boats still better in conjunction with spring lines. Bow lines are usually fairly snug in the beginning then start getting loose from stretching. Keep spring lines as tight as can be!
 
I typically use only one spring line to keep the boats sterns in line for platform-to-platform crossings, or through the cockpits if platforms are too far apart. On occasion, I have also used one long spring line to go from a forward cleat on my boat, to the side cleat on neighbors, to aft cleat on my boat. That prevents forward and aft shifting, as long as you have a long enough spring. I bought two long ones of a different color so they are easy to ID in the locker and grab quickly.

Do you think the separate crossed spring lines have a different effect than the one long one? I will definitely experiment for fun to see. We typically put the stern line as tight as possible without compressing the fender in between, use one spring tightened to align us as necessary, and then take the slack out of the bow line once everything is adjusted with the spring, and stern lines.

What is the benefit of slack in the bow/stern lines with crossed springs?

Crossed stern lines control movement in all directions and keep the boats together. And they do it without undo stress on the cleats/boat. The general problem with tight bow or stern lines is that there is not enough length to give any significant amount of stretch when loaded. This means that the load is transferred to the cleats more quickly when a wake comes through and moves the boats in the raft.

I will caveat that this is for a standard raft. When you start to do fancy raftings such as Humph's, you may need to tighten the stern lines relative to a normal raft, but the angles have changed as well. You do not have the force going along the stern line so much as the boats are moving back and forth and the load isn't transferred along the stern line as much. Circular rafts move in strange and wonderful ways.

I am also NOT saying completely slack bow and stern lines. The bow and stern lines have to be adjusted to eventually stop the movement if the boats are spreading to far apart. By that point, though, the springs should have greatly slowed that movement so there isn't as hard of a shock when the bow and stern do take the load.

My best advice is to rig it up and start pushing the boats apart and see what happens.

Bryan
 

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