Rafting tips and Fender selection questions

[Ozshadow]

I have a 270 and my buddy just got an identical boat. We have started rafting up together and so far I am not entirely comfortable with our setup.

I have two West Marine brand 10" white plastic (harder type) fender with the eyes at each end. One works find in the rear off the back cleat at rub rail height.

My biggest concern is the fender at the front on the cleat by the windshield. Placing the fender at rub rail height basically means a short rope almost right at the cleat. The boats' movement (if a little rough out) causes the fender to ride up, so anymore rope will result in it slipping above the rub rails. It looks like it will rip the entire eye end out.

We do supplement with two 6" Taylor Made hull guard fenders in the middle as "just in case" protection.

Any ideas on how we can better raft up? I have considered a giant round fender below the rub rail, as it would basically be captured, but storage is an issue.

Thoughts? Suggestions for this plus adaptation for larger and small boats?

 

[JimG]

Have you tried the 10" below the rub rail at the windshield cleat? I would think that would keep the boats apart.

 

[magstang1]

I always keep at least 4 fenders on the boat. The more the merrier and the bigger the better. The breeze often turns around in the evening on St. Clair making for some interesting movements of the boats. I've yet to see an eye rip out of a fender. They take some surprising abuse. Keep the boats tight to avoid banging. Stern first, then snug it up with the bow. If things get really bad, life jackets work in a pinch. I got caught in a bad storm in Muscamoot once.

I'll damage a fender over fiberglass any day.

 

[JimFromMD]

I have the taylormade 8x20 Big B fenders... And they work really well on my 30' when rafted to smaller boats and bigger boats (up to mid 40 foot boats). When I raft with the larger boats, I usually have them put out their fenders if they have them with them. Bigger is always better when it comes to fenders and coverage.

I do have fender covers on mine, and that has helped when wakes go past because it allows the fender cover to slide a bit inside the cover. The cover is a more "slippery" than the vinyl/rubber directly stuck to each hull and keeps them from climbing.

 

[Ozshadow]

Ok, this was the first few minutes of the first time putting these boats together.

Please ignore the slack bow line, lose 10" and the 6" thrown in front quickly just because we were worried. Later attempts tighten everything up considerably and changed placement as described in the first post.

I wanted to show the contour of the boats below the rub rail. A 10" below the rail does not leave me comfortable. Perhaps a better brand fender would, but not the one I have.

 

[Southpaw II]

If each of you use the 10" fenders (2 total) between the boats, it should be fine. No matter what you use, if some idiot throws a big wake, you both will still be trying to hold the boats apart. As said before, more is better, if you can ind room to store them. Also, as mentioned before, fender covers help. I have them, and it makes a difference.

Don

 

[AMFM3]

Personally I don't see an issue with the setup in the picture from what I can see.

I agree that more is better, for that "just in case" situation. The boats will move, that's a given. You will have to hold the boats off each other once in awhile, just the way it goes. Rafting is one of the great pleasures of boating. We do it all the time with friends here in the Okanagan.

Id it'd get another fender or two for safety sake and the. Enjoy the fun with friends.

Mark

 

[Lazy Daze]

Heck, that's more fender usage than I've ever used and have always been OK. If you want to look for something else, google "Taylor Tuff End Buoy". Two of those (total) hanging below the rubrail will be plenty.

 

[Polaris]

It is not clear from the photo, but it appears there are no spring lines. That could be part of the problem of why the boats rub each other.

 

[AFD]

Try horizontal just below the rub rails. Should keep them apart and prevent climbing fenders because they would be caught under the rail. And by under, I mean just under. I carry (4) 8x20 pass through fenders and (2) 8.5x20 with the eye on each side. They come in handy and sometimes we raft loose and just double the fenders.

 

[mistercomputerman]

If you have the storage space, you may want to consider a larger fender such as a 10 x 26 placed between the hulls so that there is no chance of the rub rails ever touching.

 

[barlow]

See post #9. It appears your fenders are fine to keep rub rails apart. Adding spring lines will make a difference. ie from rear of your boat to front of his and vice versa. Dont have the front and rear lines too tight and the springs will take up the slack. We can have up to 4 or 5 boats (30ft to 60ft) all rafted together and spring lines make for a more comfortable and relaxed night when there is a chance of wind getting up. We get plenty of practice down here with the wind....!!

 

[hobbs]

I have a related question. I’m wondering if I’m tying the stern of the boat incorrectly? I’m using a normal cleat hitch to connect the sterns. However, I have noticed the line/hitch can become very tight. Overall, I’m using three lines (stern, bow and spring). Should I be using a different knot or method for the stern? Thanks.

 

[Molson]

I have a related question. I’m wondering if I’m tying the stern of the boat incorrectly? I’m using a normal cleat hitch to connect the sterns. However, I have noticed the line/hitch can become very tight. Overall, I’m using three lines (stern, bow and spring). Should I be using a different knot or method for the stern? Thanks.

I've always used three lines. Get the boat lined up, tie the stern tight. Tie the spring tight, then tighten up the bow line. Never had an issue removing it.

 

[skolbe]

When rafted I usually have three 10" diameter fenders and the other boat usually puts on 2 and I throw an extra on their boat. Your one fender may be a bit high. But in general looks fine. A spring line is important.

 

[HUMPH]

We tighten the stern until the fenders are compressed, then tighten the bow. Use a spring line from each boat to the next to stop what I call the "boat races" where the boats move past each other up to a couple of feet at a time which does no good other than loosen the lines. Now when you want the boats in a circle..... that's a bit different!

 

[PMC]

In the center of the circle raft....is that where you store all the portable generators?

In all seriousness, how often do CO detectors sound in that type of rafting? Seems like a tough setup to have the wind clear the air. Does everybody avoid running them?

 

[HUMPH]

Generators run in the AM and in the evening mostly. We usually have a good breeze blowing on the delta so it isn't an issue most of the time. You can see by the picture below that the diameter of the circle is pretty large so it's not like there is a small confined space with 40 generators running. About half of the boats are diesel too. Some of the shots (like my signature picture) were taken at sunup and gensets are not allowed to be run until 7:30AM and must be off by 10PM (extreme heat can alter that time though). The "party platform" in the center does have a portable generator for the sound system and margarita machine. There are a couple of pictures below to show it a bit more closely. It is a custom built unit that has 3 pontoons and aluminum superstructure that folds up for towing.

 

[HUMPH]

And this is what it looks like during our BBQ competition! It's a very robust platform.

 

[BryanOnTheBay]

I have a related question. I’m wondering if I’m tying the stern of the boat incorrectly? I’m using a normal cleat hitch to connect the sterns. However, I have noticed the line/hitch can become very tight. Overall, I’m using three lines (stern, bow and spring). Should I be using a different knot or method for the stern? Thanks.

You should be using 4 lines: bow, stern and 2 spring lines. The spring lines should be taken tight, but the bow and stern lines should have some slack in them. You should always use cleat knots on cleats, and of course give the loop to the boat you are rafting with for them to hook on their cleats.

When end the spring lines are adjusted properly AND tight, they will tend to prevent the boats from moving in any direction, but will not cause a sudden jerk to the boats like tight bow and stern lines will. Once he force is off the boats, the springs will bring them back to the correct position gently.

Bryan