Racor Filter change on the water....

Boat Guy

Boat Guy

Well-Known Member
May 15, 2013
2,289
Who knows? Could be Cali, Oahu, Florida, Annapolis
Boat Info
400 DA
Engines
CAT 3116s
Basic question....

I've watched videos on replacing the Racor fuel filters and it looks pretty straight forward.

The one issue is adding fuel to the canister to prime it and make sure there is no air.

Where do you get the diesel from to add if you're on the water?

I'm thinking of scenarios where you have a clog while out and need to replace one.
 
We keep a jug of clean diesel on the boat for topping off.
 
When changing my Racors, I have used the fuel tank selector/shutoff valves to keep fuel from overflowing after removing the cap and the old filter. When the new filter is in place, I keep a careful eye on the fuel level while my wife turns the valve to 'ON', until the fuel level tops the filter and nears the top of the Racor unit. At that point, I have her select 'OFF', and I reseat the cap with o-ring in place. NOTE: This may only work when tank levels are nearly full, and would NOT work in pitching seas, or with low tanks...I hope that never happens!!! I do keep a small jug ('Simply Lemonade' 59 fluid oz jug) of clean diesel board for pre-filling the CAT filters. I have changed those while 'at sea' - its easy IF they aren't over-tightened. (They will NOT self prime if you have no fuel handy. Don't ask how I know this...)
 
Last edited:
markrinker said:
When changing my Racors, I have used the fuel tank selector/shutoff valves to keep fuel from overflowing after removing the cap and the old filter. When the new filter is in place, I keep a careful eye on the fuel level while my wife turns the valve to 'ON', until the fuel level tops the filter and nears the top of the Racor unit. At that point, I have her select 'OFF', and I reseat the cap with o-ring in place. NOTE: This may only work when tank levels are nearly full, and would NOT work in pitching seas, or with low tanks...I hope that never happens!!! I do keep a small jug ('Simply Lemonade' 59 fluid oz jug) of clean diesel board for pre-filling the CAT filters. I have changed those while 'at sea' - its easy IF they aren't over-tightened. (They will NOT self prime if you have no fuel handy. Don't ask how I know this...)
Click to expand...


This method only works on some model boats and depends upon filter placement in the engine room and fuel level in the tanks. It can also be slow and tends to spill a lot of fuel unless you are tied to the dock.

The Cat secondary filter will self prime if you use the priming pump on the engine (3116/3126), however, you cannot count on any filter on this boat to self-prime. I have had horrible luck with the priming pump....they leak fuel, they are slow and it is very easy to not fully close the ball valve that allows the priming pump in the inlet fuel circuit. I keep 2- 96 oz containers that diesel 9-1-1 came in full of diesel, and that is just right to prime all my filters.

The original question posed was "how to do this on the water"...........Well, the last thing you want to do is to have a Racor clog up under way. It is a miserable task hunkering over a hot engine trying to change filters and refill the housings while the boat is bouncing about in 3-4 ft seas......as your wife is shouting "Hurry Up; its hot" and the kids ask every 60 seconds, "Are we there yet?" You are a lot better off keeping up with your filter condition and doing this little job proactively while you are tied to a dock behind a sea wall.
 
You have a single 500MA that flows 60 gph; I have dual 900MA's that flow 180gph. Not only is the canister 2x as big as yours, I have 2 of them per engine.
 
Frank, did you upgrade your boat to the dual 900s? I have been thinking about doing that. So I'd have a backup filter online at the flip of a switch.

Pete
 
I just changed my fuel filters. I have RACOR with the drain area on the bottom. After changing them I started both engines and they both ran fine for 5 to 7 minutes that I ran them. That was last Friday night. Sunday I went down to take the boat out and the port engine wouldn't stay running and eventually wouldn't even start.

Any ideas of what to do next?
 
Sure sounds like a simple air leak on the port side. Check the o-ring seal on the RACOR lid first. Did you replace both the large and tiny O-rings with new?
 
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