Quicksilver Generator Help

Mike

Mike

New Member
May 29, 2007
62
Middle River, MD
I have the Quicksilver 7.5. When I winterized the genny it was running fine. I replaced the exhuast outlet over the winter along with the high exhuast switch and when I went to fire it up today it reeved real high and then shut off. I have fuel to the carb (although when i manually try and pump fuel into the carb via the throttle I cannot see or smell any fuel), rotor, distributor, points, plugs (except that they were real black in color and dry after trying to start, i have cleaned multiple times) all look good. Can this switch be causing it not to start? Even spraying starting fluid into the carb doesn't start it. It is almost like a combo of not getting spark or fuel. Can you bypass that switch?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
Mike, There is a heat sensor that shuts down the generator. I had similar problem found a short in wire. Simple fix. Good luck.
 
Can you bypass that high exhaust heat switch to see if that is the problem? That switch is very difficult to get to. I had to solder the connectors as one broke when i went to install. I have to think this is the problem being the engine ran great at winter commissioning and this is the only thing that has changed.

How did you find the short?
 
Mike, I got lucky wire was shorting out against generator. By moving wire around found short.
 
Mike,

The three sensors: coolant temp, oil pressure and exhaust temp are on a open loop to ground. That means if any sensor "closes" by exceeding (heat sensors) or falling below (oil) the circuit is completed to ground and the result is sent to the circuit board. When this occurs, the engine will crank but not start. The easiest way to check this is to remove the sensor wire from the circuit board. I can't remember which number it is but if you follow the wire back from the coolant sensor you will find it. Remove that wire from the the circuit board and IF that is the problem, the unit will start.

There is a chance that is not the problem. The overspeed start you experienced indicates that the circuit board itself might have failed. That is further reinforced by the lack of ignition (spark) when cranking. Moving the governor arm on the carburator will not squirt gas as it does in a car.

1) check for spark at the plugs
2) remove the safety wire from the board check for spark at the plugs
3) if you have spark, try to start it.

Let me know what happens.

-John
 
I found this link on the web and it is a really good manual / technician workbook. I did all the troubleshooting steps and found out the fuel pump is not pumping. Fuel soloniod, circuit board, ignition coil, compressor, etc.. all passed the tests giving in this manual, pump did not. All circuits seemed to test ok. as well. So I ordered the pump from www.partsfortechs.com, talked with Dennis and he was very helpful. Bad part is the pump is over $300. It should be here today so we shall see.

http://www.generator-parts.com/manuals/generac-rv/082033.pdf
 
Mike said:
I Even spraying starting fluid into the carb doesn't start it. It is almost like a combo of not getting spark or fuel. .
Click to expand...

I got the impression that it wouldn't catch from your earlier posting. If it didn't catch and run for a bit with ether, I'll be surprised its the fuel pump.

-John
 
John,

I have removed that wire, wire #85. Still the same results. I did the test on the circuit board and it indicates that it is ok. All LED lights on the board and regulator come on when trying to start as well as the green light going on and off with the fuel pump as it pumps fuel. I replaced the fuel pump and will replace ignition coil, cap and rotor (when it gets here). Fuel soleniod, shut-off switches also tested ok.

Now when I go to start the engine it accelerates real high and then stops. Almost as it is running out of fuel after the initial start. If I find the "sweet spot" with the throttle when someone starts it at the cabin panel I can get it going only to stop when it tries to accelerate. I took aff the carb, took it apart, cleaned it, (was like new as it is only 1 yr old) sprayed carb cleaner through everythiing and even tried disconnecting it from the governor with only a very struggling puttering at startup and then stopping unless I get to the throttle and find that "sweet spot" and then cuts out. The spark plugs keep getting very black, but dry so I have replaced them as well, 3 times. Do I have weak ignition, can the governor go bad? I am stuck!
 
I want to be encouraging, so let's start with what results you have so far.

1) Safety circuits have been eliminated as a cause (disconnecting wire #85 from the circuit board).
2) Plugs are black.
3) The generator starts.
4) High speed shutdown circuit is being activated.

Hmmm..... 3&4 appear to be related to the governor's control over the carb. The governor is a dc powered device that receives its signal from the controller board. The controller board senses engine rpms and generator load and adjusts accordingly. The governor voltage at startup should be 12 volts quickly dropping to 5-6 volts once the engine starts. Please go over your wiring connections and any items you disconnected and reconnected. Recheck all the connections to the circuit board.

I doubt it is the governor itself. You can check it the by varing 5-12 volts to it (the actuator will move back and forth). More likely, is that there is something telling the controller board (or it is the board itself) that the engine rpms are low. I do suspect the controller board even though it passes self test. However, I also would not rule out that a wire was broken/disconnected during the troubleshooting process which is why you should take a close look at all the connections.

I know this is frustrating, but it usually turns out to be something simple. Black plugs are normal on most Quicksilver models. You can check your electic choke on the engine but for now the primary and secondary ignition can be ruled out. I also think we can rule out fuel as well. That leaves us with the controller and its sensing circuits.

-John
 
Well, today I was able to hold the govenor arm in that sweet spot and keep the engine running for a good period of time. Hopefully ruling out fuel. I even had an electrical load on it by switching the electrical swithches on at the panel (my wife was doing that). How does the governor recieve that signal? I didn't see any wires to it, does it happen through the altenator?

I ordered a new control panel today and will try that next.

By the way John I have a 1992 370 Express, great boat!
 
Mike,

My mistake. Your model has a centrifugal governor which is part of the alternator. This device does not take a feed from the controller board. Other models have an electric actuator. Typically these units are pretty reliable. I want you to closely look at the diagram in the operator manual's link 4.4.1 you provided and tell me if the the spring at the bottom of the acutator is in place. If it is missing, the engine will race until the overspeed safety kicks in.

If you can keep it running manually and you have a non-electric governor, then my money is now on the the governor assembly. Cancel the controller card order. You are very close to solving this although I am mystified how it failed. Perhaps one of the internal springs broke.

I really like the 370 EC....it's a great boat. I should tell you I know have a Westerbeke 7.0 generator on board. That Quicksilver drove me nuts which is why I know a lot about them.

-John
 
The spring is connected as shown. If you look at the exploded view of the governor there is not much in there to go wrong. I would think if something was loose in there you would hear it when spinning.

Anyway I ordered a new governor assembly, still have the board coming as well. I will start with the board (cheaper piece) I don't mind having a spare one aboard. If that doesn't work I will try the governor assembly. This whole thing is wierd as it has always ran great, and went away last winter running great.
 
Mike said:
The spring is connected as shown. If you look at the exploded view of the governor there is not much in there to go wrong. I would think if something was loose in there you would hear it when spinning.

Anyway I ordered a new governor assembly, still have the board coming as well. I will start with the board (cheaper piece) I don't mind having a spare one aboard. If that doesn't work I will try the governor assembly. This whole thing is wierd as it has always ran great, and went away last winter running great.
Click to expand...



Mike,

One other thing to check is the drive belt. Make sure it isn't slipping when it is running. That will also cause the governor to overspeed the engine.

-John
 
John,

Replaced the governor today, hit the startswitch and it fired right up. It ran great, just need to get it at the right RPM's. I think I am close.

Thanks for all the help.
 
Mike said:
John,

Replaced the governor today, hit the startswitch and it fired right up. It ran great, just need to get it at the right RPM's. I think I am close.

Thanks for all the help.
Click to expand...

I love happy endings. Well done Mike!!! It is really hard to find people to work on Quicksilver generators. Now that you have the Quicksilver Merit Badge, I will leave it to you to answer the questions people ask on this board about those generators.

-John
 
I'll do my best, last night I took apart the old governor and to my eye nothing really stood out to be abnormal. I actually had to dissasemble the new governor to rotate it so the mounting holes where in the right place so that was my comparison.

Again thanks for the help, Mike
 
hi everyone , what a great site , i need some help , with my quicksilver generator , it starts ,runs for a second or two then stops , i disconnected the #85 wire , but it does not make any differance , something is killing the power to the fuel pump etc , when starting the light on the board is on green , but after it starts , the light goes out ,anyone got any ideas , i'm in clearwater florida , thanks , harry.
 
I'm experiencing almost similar symptoms. Generator starts and will run 30 or so seconds and dies. So far I've replaced the fuel pump + controller board + plugs. I've also tried to disconnect wire #85 to see if it's one of the sensors and still no joy. Please someone help me .... I'm going nuts trying to figure this out.
 
How long has it been since it was running properly? Sometimes it is just destablized fuel (Ethanol) that causes it to die repeatedly. Once you get through the fuel in the hose, water separator and filters they come back to life. It is now the first thing I check if the generator hasn't been used for a while.

JD
 
PlayDate said:
How long has it been since it was running properly? Sometimes it is just destablized fuel (Ethanol) that causes it to die repeatedly. Once you get through the fuel in the hose, water separator and filters they come back to life. It is now the first thing I check if the generator hasn't been used for a while.

JD
Click to expand...

JD,
It worked perfectly a few weeks ago.
 
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