Question about trailer

Are you referring to my original post that this trailer would be ok? I thought it I needed a heavier weight trailer...

2002 Load Rite Boat Trailer. Galvanized. GVWR 5950. Previously garage stored. Surge brakes. Measures 20' from the bow roller to stern roller.
I was yes. But I am not familiar with the hull you are looking at. It is my understanding that Sea Ray changed the way they measure their hulls. My cousin has a newer 260 that is much smaller and lighter than my older 245. It includes the pulpit and swim platform in it's length which mine does not. You would not want the transom very much beyond the back rollers as previously mentioned. You will want to measure from the bow eye to the transom on the boat and compare it to your measurement from the winch post roller to the back roller on the trailer. The trailer is on the light side for that boat and there does not appear to be much adjustment left to extend that. To pull it across town twice a year is what I was implying, would not concern me. It does have a lot of rollers though which will evenly distribute the weight of that hull. My boat is much heavier than that one and spent the first 35 years of it's life on much fewer rollers. Not a dimple on it.
Should add, I am a bunk guy. the last 3 trailers I bought had bunks. I paid $9g for the one under my 245. If you don't have a budget for a new one, then I wouldn't be sitting on my hands for long in this market if there is something available that will work.
 
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My one regret (not the only one), being a 70 year old, life-long boater, is that this forum didn't exist when I bought my first trailer! Trial and error is a nasty and an expensive way to be educated.

Oh, Fuzzy - buy the boat!
 
This bunk trailer just came up for sale and it's local Thoughts? The weight should be ok? They say the length is for 21-25' boat. Less then 200 miles on it for $3500
 

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I'm a little confused what my tow limit is on my 2015 ford f150 3.5L V6. Here are the specs. Would this be ok to tow a 240 Sundeck? Thank you!
Corey
I have a 2014 f150 with the 3.5 Ecoboost. I pull my 240 sundancer all over the state of Wisconsin. My 240 sundancer is 1000lbs heavier than your sun deck. It pulls it with ease. Up steep hills with no problem at all. Just make sure you have good trailer brakes.
 
This bunk trailer just came up for sale and it's local Thoughts? The weight should be ok? They say the length is for 21-25' boat. Less then 200 miles on it for $3500
Looks good to me! Check lights, brakes, bearings and tires prior to purchase. Negotiate price if it needs any work.
 
Hi everyone,
Thank you for the reply's! I really appreciate it. I couldn't find anything in my truck manual about towing. I live in New Jersey. Most of my towing will be flat. I have towed my 230 bow rider no problem but my f150 truck struggles up hill with the V6. My buddy has a 2011 Dodge Ram 1500 hemi V8 and I never even feel the boat being towed uphill. Big difference. But it's good to know the few times a year I'll tow the 240 I'll be ok. Now I'm in a pinch to find a trailer because the 240 I found for sale doesn't have one.
Not a easy task to find one. That's why I asked if it should be a bunk or roller trailer. I tried eBay, Craigslist, and Facebook market place. I thought any 2 axel trailer would do but I learned I need to watch the weight. I hope I find something before the boat sells!
Thank you for tour time!
Corey
I’m surprised you say this because my last truck was a dodge with the v8 Hemi. My f150 with the 3.5 tows my boat 10 times better than my Dodge did.
 
This bunk trailer just came up for sale and it's local Thoughts? The weight should be ok? They say the length is for 21-25' boat. Less then 200 miles on it for $3500
You can't base your decision on what we say. We can advise, but in the end, it's your rig and your butt on the line... along with others in the truck and other motorists. If you're not paying a dealer to do the "figuring out" then YOU have do the figuring out to make sure everything is OK. Yes, that weight looks good. But there's been a bunch of posts about how you can figure out if the weight is good along with posts about what to check out. Do your homework so you know for sure.
 
You can't base your decision on what we say. We can advise, but in the end, it's your rig and your butt on the line... along with others in the truck and other motorists. If you're not paying a dealer to do the "figuring out" then YOU have do the figuring out to make sure everything is OK. Yes, that weight looks good. But there's been a bunch of posts about how you can figure out if the weight is good along with posts about what to check out. Do your homework so you know for sure.
The dealers cannot be relied upon to do the right thing, either. Many are notorious for selling underpowered boats and also for placing those boats on undersized trailers just to keep prices lower to make their sales targets. Educate yourself and make an unbiased and informed decision for yourself. This forum is a good resource with many here offering you excellent advice but there are other resources to draw on, as well. Do not suffer "paralysis by analysis." You are a smart guy, doing the required due diligence. Go for it!
 
Kind of hard to see in this picture of my trailer but it has full keel support over some trailers don't do this.
 

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The dealers cannot be relied upon to do the right thing, either. Many are notorious for selling underpowered boats and also for placing those boats on undersized trailers just to keep prices lower to make their sales targets. Educate yourself and make an unbiased and informed decision for yourself. This forum is a good resource with many here offering you excellent advice but there are other resources to draw on, as well. Do not suffer "paralysis by analysis." You are a smart guy, doing the required due diligence. Go for it!
Sure, some dealers aren't that smart about this. But I do think there are plenty out there that are. But, the point about "educating yourself" is still 100% valid and I fully agree with that.
 
That trailer should be fine as far as the GVWR goes. You may have to make adjustment to the bunks, winch tower, etc to get it to fit your boat just right. Looks just like a Venture trailer. Ballpark guess is if your boat is 4800lbs dry then you are probably no more than 6000 wet and that trailer might be about 1200 so that would put you at about 7200lbs. The GVWR of that trailer was just over 7300lbs. My 'guess' is you will be closer to about 6800-7000lbs total. Ask the seller if there is any way you can put your boat on it and take it to the CAT scales.

Here are my tickets from the CAT scales for my boat and truck so you can get an idea of what to look for. Don't forget to add your tongue weight back on to the trailer for actual weights. In my case my truck with me in it was 7380lbs. With the trailer loaded my truck axles were 8040 so that means I had 660lbs of tongue weight. My trailer axles were 8200lbs so add my 660 tongue weight so my boat and trailer were 8860lbs. My manufacturers statement of origin says my trailer weighed 1300lbs so that puts my boat at 7560lbs:

 
I forgot to ask. I only use the trailer to bring my bot home for the winter and then back to the marina. I don't launch with it. Do I need a roller trailer or is a bunk trailer ok?

This comment leads me to believe you dont use a ramp to launch, you use a hoist/lift. Here are some considerations when looking at used trailer: If you use a hoist or lift, and you have a bunk trailer with the bunks that run all the way to just past the transom (which they should to avoid a transom hook in the bottom of the hull) you will require a bunk cutaway for the lifting strap to wrap under the stern. Some manufacturers build these in and some dont. The other thing to be cognizant of when you buy a used trailer not set up originally for your boat, you will find it a fairly significant PITA to get the bunks set in proper position for the hull. To avoid this PITA (I have done it twice myself and I hate it) buy the trailer from a dealer -used or new doesnt matter, and tell the dealer THEY need to properly set the bunks as part of the deal. The third time I did this I paid the dealer to adjust -Best $700 bucks I ever spent. The dealer pissed and moaned at first but I walked away and they chased me saying they'd do the adjustments. And, inspect after they are done BEFORE you drive away. Bunks should have a set near the keel, then not under but next to the chines, AND avoiding things like thru hull fittings. I prefer three sets. I also prefer a short bow set too but a fixed keel rubber mount at the bow can also work. Make sure there are rings on rear frame for Transom straps. Inspect the Wench for proper operations. Hopefully a strap and not a crappy cable that kinks and rusts. Get under and inspect the brakes for leaks. At the 7,500ish weight you will pull (4,600 boat, 1,000 for stuff, 1,800 trailer) I highly recommend Electric over hydraulic brakes. Will make the tow so much more enjoyable. What else...Hmmm are they greased bearings on the axles or are they Oil bath? Nothing wrong with either just need different maintenance types/frequencies. If greased, do they have bearing buddies? Aluminum vs galvanized - Hmmm, aluminum is lighter but long haul if they are welded its not uncommon for welds to fail. Factor this in to used vs new (one has warranty one doesnt). Galvanized welds hold much better (from my experience). If you hoist in Galvanized vs aluminum really doesnt matter for corrosion. Although you do get the cool factor with aluminum.

What is the hitch rating on your F150? Is it a class III (up to 5K) or IV (up to 10K without load equalizers)? Think about and cover this. May need to upgrade. If you get electric over hydraulic, upgrade the F150 with a controller and 7 pin . Look at those tires? They have a date code stamp on them. My guess is most used trailers in the 2006ish to 2015 range are original tires. Its recommended to replace (regardless of wear) tires every 7 years. I personally would consider very 10 if low mileage and you keep them protected from UV. Oh yea, too, at 7,500 lbs of stuff, you will want minimum D rated but you should consider E rated tires.
 
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That trailer is likely only about 1200lbs. Looks nearly identical to mine and mine weighs 1300lbs and mine is slightly larger and slightly higher GVWR
 
I hate to really be a Pita. This is the only trailer I can find. I need to measure the length of the bow eye to the transom on the boat to make sure but I think it's around 22'. The person who is selling this trailer said they used it for a 240 Sea Ray Sundeck but who knows if that is really true. I just need to run this past everyone here helping me that this will be ok for the 2009 Sundeck. I went to 3 boat places who sell trailers and they all tell me different things. I need to make a decision today or I loose the boat I have a deposit on. Can you please look at the specs of the trailer in the pics and please give me your opinion if this will work? I also included a pic of my trailer hitch on my 2015 Ford F-150 3.5L. Again sorry to be asking for a last minute look at beating a dead horse. I'm just stressed out.
thank you in advance!!
 

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No reason that truck shouldn't tow that boat/trailer. Your truck's tow capacity is way higher than what you will be towing. All in I'm guessing you'll be about 6500-7000lbs.
Here is the info on that trailer from the manufacturer. Like was mentioned, make sure there are brakes on both axles. Days the trailer weighs 1113lbs (I said about 1200 without looking it up) and it is for 22-25' boats. The 'allowable' payload on that trailer is 6300lbs. Given your dry weight was about 4600lbs IIRC I doubt you would be over 5500lbs so you should be about 800lbs to the good. As far as the boat fitting the trailer, they are pretty adjustable. You can move the winch post forward or backward to get the desired length and can move your bunks. As far as the Sundeck goes I can't answer that cause I don't know what the bottom of the hull looks like but if it is a traditional V-hull you should be fine

EDIT: just looked up a 2009 240 Sundeck and it appears to have a regular V-hull. Can anyone confirm that?
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Fuzz, what did you come up with for a "wet" boat weight like we talked about above? Honestly, if you do that (which is important), and with the info we listed above about how to verify, you should be good. But I'm not going to do the math for you! :) Maybe read back through what we've said, again?
 
Fuzz, what did you come up with for a "wet" boat weight like we talked about above? Honestly, if you do that (which is important), and with the info we listed above about how to verify, you should be good. But I'm not going to do the math for you! :) Maybe read back through what we've said, again?
I think part of the problem is he doesn't own the boat yet either so might make it harder to get that weight, especially if it isn't on a trailer now.

Anyone here know the 'real world' wet weight of a 2009 240 Sundeck?
My boat lists dry weight as 6600lbs but mine is actually 7500lbs all in with 1/2 tank of fuel. Pretty sure dry weight doesn't include batteries, air conditioning, canvas, anchor, fuel, etc. I doubt the Sundeck would have an 'extra' 1000lbs of 'stuff' added so 5600lbs would be a pretty safe number to use. That trailer has a 6300lb capacity. Best bet is to get an actual wet weight on that boat but thinking you should be fine
 
I think part of the problem is he doesn't own the boat yet either so might make it harder to get that weight, especially if it isn't on a trailer now.
I probably mentioned this above, but he can do this by using the info on SR's website. Close enough as makes no difference, anyways.
 
I probably mentioned this above, but he can do this by using the info on SR's website. Close enough as makes no difference, anyways.
Do they give wet weights? Even if they do it's still a guess as there are many variables such as anchor weight, chain length, etc. The 'listed' wet weight would be a closer 'guesstimate' than I gave but the only way to know for sure is to weigh the boat. 2nd best would be another person with the same boat
 

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