Question about polishing

R

RLKBOB

New Member
May 2, 2010
55
Michigan
Boat Info
1979 240 Sundancer
Engines
260 Mercruiser
May seem like a no brainer but I need some clarification on polishing. The fiberglass probably hadn't been waxed or tended to in well over 5 years that I know of, pretty oxidized. Did the oxidation remover no problem(wet sanded a few stains with 2000 grit) already looked way better. I'm using Maguires(I think the polish is 45). It is very liquidy(runny, not thick like the oxidation remover) and says not to let it dry. How is this even possible with a rotary polisher? It works good but the whole area doesn't shine, it's kinda blotchy, some shiny and some not so shiny. Also it doesn't take long for the polish to dry when using the buffer. Do I just need to keep going over it until it all shines or am I doing something wrong?
I'd really appreciate any pointers.

The teak was in pretty bad shape also but it looks great now after many hours of sanding, cleaning and several coats of Teak Guard. I'll post some pics when I get it all done.
Thanks.
 
If it was oxidised that bad I would use a cleaner wax and do small areas at a time.

Mine was pretty oxidised last year and even with the cleaner wax it was a bear to remove when i did a large area. There were several areas that i had to use a damp rag to remove the wax and then re-do that area. Also try not to do it in direct sunlight!
 
Unless it's changed since the last time I used the #45, the instructions on the bottle said to apply by hand. Wipe it on, wipe it off.

EDIT: If you still end up with splotchy parts, it's probably just the neglected gel pulling in all the oils more in some parts and less in others. Go over it again.
 
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Use a misting bottle to dampen it a little. Don't wax until you like the shine you have with the polish, use more polish if it's all dried-up and gone
 
I used the Collonite prewax cleaner and 3M fiberglass restorer and polish. The collonite works well and I have done it in the sun. Comes off easily and really cleans up oxidation and stains. Trick is not to use too much
 
Maquires #50 is the cleaner wax. It's a little thicker but used with a buffer (orbital) it should take care of your problem. If it persists, try using the oxidation remover again. It's possible you still have spots on the gelcoat.
 
I just noticed an ad (sponsored links) for an orbital buffer made by Shurhold. I bought this last year and it's by far the best $200 I'ver spent! I can;t say emough good things about the quality and time it's saved to wax my 28' boat.
 
Use Meguiar's 67 on the areas that are not shiny, or the whole area for that matter. Get it to the point that that entire area is evenly shiny using a rotary. Then use a random orbital for the 45.
 
A lot of good advice. The polish(49) does say for use with buffer or by hand but after reading your replies and some other searching I'll get a much better shine on it with the rotary before I try the polish again. Then I'll use the orbital.
 
RLKBOB said:
The polish(49) does say for use with buffer or by hand
Click to expand...

You're right - I just looked on a bottle here in the showroom. Sorry 'bout that!

Not letting it dry is the whole key, though. It does go pretty quick by hand - you're not buffing real hard like you would with something that dries. But, either way will work.
 
RLKBOB said:
A lot of good advice. The polish(49) does say for use with buffer or by hand but after reading your replies and some other searching I'll get a much better shine on it with the rotary before I try the polish again. Then I'll use the orbital.
Click to expand...

Keep in mind 49 is the oxidation remover and the 45 is the polish.
 
hi ! i'm new to the site,but not new to boating and finish work,as i have owned a bodyshop for years . some of the new products that are out are awesome . something to look at is 3M's EXTRA cut compound--this is great for gelcoat,really cuts the time down:thumbsup:--then finish off with a finish compound.

steven
 
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