Proper anchor setup

jobofly

jobofly

Member
Jul 22, 2008
413
Ithaca Ny
Boat Info
1985 Sea Ray Weekender 230 OMC Stringer
Engines
5.7 260 w/OMC Stringer
Hey guys, I'm sure most of you feel like me and can't wait for spring/summer for boating. I went and paid a visit to my boat today to see how it's holding up with all of the snow we have had this winter, so far so good. When I got back home I started thinking/dreaming of setting anchor and hanging out in the sun but I'm not really setup for that. I have a danforth anchor with some rope but from what I am reading I need chain with it as well? I have an anchor locker in the front of my boat but I'm not sure how to stow the rope and chain neatly. I would appreciate any ideas. Thanks and hurry up summer!!!!!!
 
Can you post a better picture of your bow? I can't see it clear enough in your signature picture.

Chain always helps.

With just an anchor locker, flake the rode into the locker and lay the anchor on top.
 
image.jpg
 
While I'm not sure of your local anchoring situations, I can say, chain will always help. However the issue you need to answer is how much chain do I need. Are you in a lake or saltwater with tidal influence?
 
Our Power Squadron courses recommend a minimum length of chain to match the length of your boat plus enough nylon rode to equal at least seven times the deepest water that you expect to anchor in at highest high tide. Most anchor packages in boats that we have viewed include +/- 30 ft of chain and at least 250 ft of nylon rode, which would be adequate in your boat as a minimum, IMHO.
 
Lake Ontario, it will be my first year on this lake. Last year I was on Cayuga lake and it was over 200 feet deep so i never could drop anchor
 
Looking closely at that picture, it appears that you have a deck pipe that you put the anchor line down into the anchor locker. That makes things simple. Believe it or not, all you have to do is send the anchor rhode (rope & then chain), down the pipe into the locker. You will not have any problems getting it back out again so long as you don't mess with it in the locker. Essentially, it will self-flake. Your bigger issue is going to be anchoring technique, and setting the anchor with sufficient scope. I will direct you to many threads that go over this in detail. Enjoy the boat this summer!

Bryan
 
Cute kids!

Directly behind the tie-off cleat is a hawse pipe? Looks like you have it pretty much under control. The only thing I would add is a safety cable. The purpose of this is a secondary defense - just in case the rode comes loose while the anchor is stowed there on the pulpit. This can be rope, vinyl-coated cable, etc. It would be a short piece secured to either the same cleat, another cleat or (ideally) a dedicated attachment point such as a small "bow eye" or u-bolt installed in the foredeck, slightly off center so it's not in the way of the rode. You can use something like a snap link or carabiner to make it a quick attach/detach.

10' - 20' of chain would be great for your boat - longer can only help. If you use a lot of chain, and regularly anchor in very shallow water, you'll need a snubber setup (chain hook with about 10' or rope) to tie-off.

EDIT: With the chain, it will be running right over that center tie-off cleat. Something as simply as a short length of 3/4" heater hose or vinyl hose, slit down the center lengthwise, can be easily slipped over the chain to keep the chain from rattling against the cleat and teak. You can also use that snubber setup to secure the anchor in the pulpit if you're using chain.

Be sure the end of your anchor rode is secured to something inside the anchor locker.
 
Last edited:
Lazy Daze said:
Be sure the end of your anchor rode is secured to something inside the anchor locker.
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+1

And I would also add "with a proper knot" as I just pulled my rhode off the boat and untying it from the locker tie down, after it had been sitting in there for years getting stiff was a real bear, made worse because the knot used was not a good one, making it a B@*&! to untie.

Bryan
 
BryanOnTheBay said:
+1

And I would also add "with a proper knot" as I just pulled my rhode off the boat and untying it from the locker tie down, after it had been sitting in there for years getting stiff was a real bear, made worse because the knot used was not a good one, making it a B@*&! to untie.

Bryan
Click to expand...

A bowline is a good standby for that, Bryan.

Also, to add/reiterate what Bryan said, every year or two, depending on what kind of water you're in, remove the rope and wash it, finishing with a soak in fabric softener. It also forces you to inspect it real well and cut out the wear points (rope to chain) and resplice.
 
Lazy Daze said:
A bowline is a good standby for that, Bryan.
Click to expand...

It absolutely is, and I will probably use that with a big loop to get the knot closer to the hatch so I can use 2 hands rather than just my left.

Lazy Daze said:
Also, to add/reiterate what Bryan said, every year or two, depending on what kind of water you're in, remove the rope and wash it, finishing with a soak in fabric softener. It also forces you to inspect it real well and cut out the wear points (rope to chain) and resplice.
Click to expand...

Which is the reason I was pulling it off today. New boat to me, so I am going over EVERYTHING carefully. I was hoping to continue the pattern of a warm, snow free winter so that I would be a bit further ahead. Go figure. :huh:

Bryan
 
When I was into sailing I gave a 2 hour seminar, at my sailing club, on anchoring - scope, types of anchors, kettles, using 2 anchors, reading bottom types, etc., so this thread could become a novel! Now that I converted to the "dark side", I note in your photo that you do not have a windlass. So, for those with a windlass I would add that you need to be sure the windlass can handle the transition from chain to rope under pressure.
 
Guys i cant thank you enough for all of your advice. i will go to west marine and get what i need. Man i find myself dreaming about being on the boat this summer, its been a hard winter here in NY. thanks again
 
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